Looking for good prices on swap material list and some advice...gbody Malibu
09-09-2013, 09:59 PM
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Looking for good prices on swap material list and some advice...gbody Malibu Swapping a 2006 lq9 6.0l in a 1980 gbody Malibu.
I have a 4l60e transmission from a 2006 Chevy full size van 5.3l
Ctsv oil pan kit $360
1996 Chevy caprice fuel tank
Headers need advice was going with long tube
DD motor mounts $134
Stand alone Wiring harness $570 from psi and may be a little more.
Using truck drive accessories and adding a R4 compressor from a 87 v8 camaro for my air conditioning set up.
What should I do for a pedal I saw a escalade pedal and module on eBay for $150.00
I have a 4l60e transmission from a 2006 Chevy full size van 5.3l
Ctsv oil pan kit $360
1996 Chevy caprice fuel tank
Headers need advice was going with long tube
DD motor mounts $134
Stand alone Wiring harness $570 from psi and may be a little more.
Using truck drive accessories and adding a R4 compressor from a 87 v8 camaro for my air conditioning set up.
What should I do for a pedal I saw a escalade pedal and module on eBay for $150.00
09-09-2013, 11:24 PM
#3
TECH Resident
From what I did I feel its a bit easier, I spent months while building and restoring the interior and chassis and sourcing parts on my build and researching.
Im not 100% sure on a Malibu but I would assume its the same as my SS. I went with a Grand National fuel tank and sending unit from Spectra and its worked well while it needed some mods. Tank and sending unit is bolt in which is nice and it cost me 300$ for both and for a fuel pump I used a Aeromotive 340LPH stealth which will be sufficient for anything I can throw at my motor and another 170$ there.
Motor mounts I used stock frame and clam shells with ebay adaptor plates that were 50$ I had the other parts so this was the most cost effectiveness. The LS motor is 1in shorter in a sense to the SBC so using a 1in setback motor mount allows you to use crossmembers designed for the SBC/transmission applications and puts the mount in the correct spot. Again bolt in easier then custom. I used one from G-force which is hands down the beefiest one I have come across for our cars.
Harness I sat down one weekend with the harness that came with my motor and converted it to stand alone using the info from http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm and while it was time consuming laying it out and stripping what I didn't need it still was cheaper then paying someone else a astronomical amount of money for something I can do.
I also used truck accessories but removed the mechanical fan and installed electric fans.
Headers, I used midlengths from Hedman but wish I would have went with the Longtubes. BRP markets them but they are Hedman and a little expensive but they fit very well as long as you use proper setback as mentioned above, people who have fitment issues didn't use setbacks or tried to eye ball it and set the motor in a incorrect location which then goes back to crossmember fitment.
Last but not least use the Holley LS retro fit oil pan, its cheaper then the CTS-V pan and is designed again for the motor mounts I described. All other pans except for the one from Kraft hang below the K-member and I would rather have one tucked up, its again what I used and fits like a glove, give you use the correct mounts.
And to wrap this up I have read that using DBW you need the pedal from the specific vehicle it came from or you will have issues, I am DBC so I didn't have to go down that road.
Hope this helps getting you pointed in the right direction!
Im not 100% sure on a Malibu but I would assume its the same as my SS. I went with a Grand National fuel tank and sending unit from Spectra and its worked well while it needed some mods. Tank and sending unit is bolt in which is nice and it cost me 300$ for both and for a fuel pump I used a Aeromotive 340LPH stealth which will be sufficient for anything I can throw at my motor and another 170$ there.
Motor mounts I used stock frame and clam shells with ebay adaptor plates that were 50$ I had the other parts so this was the most cost effectiveness. The LS motor is 1in shorter in a sense to the SBC so using a 1in setback motor mount allows you to use crossmembers designed for the SBC/transmission applications and puts the mount in the correct spot. Again bolt in easier then custom. I used one from G-force which is hands down the beefiest one I have come across for our cars.
Harness I sat down one weekend with the harness that came with my motor and converted it to stand alone using the info from http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm and while it was time consuming laying it out and stripping what I didn't need it still was cheaper then paying someone else a astronomical amount of money for something I can do.
I also used truck accessories but removed the mechanical fan and installed electric fans.
Headers, I used midlengths from Hedman but wish I would have went with the Longtubes. BRP markets them but they are Hedman and a little expensive but they fit very well as long as you use proper setback as mentioned above, people who have fitment issues didn't use setbacks or tried to eye ball it and set the motor in a incorrect location which then goes back to crossmember fitment.
Last but not least use the Holley LS retro fit oil pan, its cheaper then the CTS-V pan and is designed again for the motor mounts I described. All other pans except for the one from Kraft hang below the K-member and I would rather have one tucked up, its again what I used and fits like a glove, give you use the correct mounts.
And to wrap this up I have read that using DBW you need the pedal from the specific vehicle it came from or you will have issues, I am DBC so I didn't have to go down that road.
Hope this helps getting you pointed in the right direction!
09-12-2013, 01:32 PM
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Check out parts taxi for the pan and pickup tube. Windage tray is the same as a truck, so it can be reused. Carshop has mounts for $60 and rockauto has the GN/4.3tbi tank for $200 including sending unit.
09-15-2013, 02:36 PM
#6
Mine has fbody pan and as said above its important as to where the motor sits, I need to move mine for 1/2" as my hedman long tubes are hitting the front of the control arm bracket, I did a little modding but it still needs a little move forward for proper clearance. Mine is basically done except for the interior and its hard to find interior parts for the 4 doors or wagons like mine. No doubt you can put a regular old small block in cheaper, but the new technology with the ls motors is the only way to go in my opinion. Its really pretty bad ***.
