crank ballancer
#1
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crank ballancer
i was getting some strange belt noise on shut down and idle with the windows down. something told me to check the ballancer because i have seen on here that it is an issue for some reason on these cars. sure enough when the car is running it seems to have a nice wobble to it. nothing serious but certainly is not spinning even.
why the hell does this happen? never had an issue on my fbodys. so basically i dont feel like screwing with it anytime soon and i DD my car. anyone see any issues running for a little while? i dont beat on it but if i have the opportunity to get a run in with a decent car on the street i cant resist. i am just looking for some opinions on how it will hold up for a month or so until i get the time to put a powerbond or other replacement.
why the hell does this happen? never had an issue on my fbodys. so basically i dont feel like screwing with it anytime soon and i DD my car. anyone see any issues running for a little while? i dont beat on it but if i have the opportunity to get a run in with a decent car on the street i cant resist. i am just looking for some opinions on how it will hold up for a month or so until i get the time to put a powerbond or other replacement.
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Mine was not spinning true for the year I've had the car. Never got any worse. Recently found a deal on ebay for an ATI "blemished" damper for $250ish. Couldn't pass it up. Just keep monitoring it. Although I think you're running on borrowed time if you have belt noises. Mine never did that.
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If it has slipped and the ring spun, it will throw your motor out of balance and cause strain on internal components. Plus you don’t want that thing coming loose, it will cost you a lot more than $250ish if it takes out the ABS and radiator.
Last edited by 69stangscj; 09-12-2013 at 03:56 PM.
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all good points. yeah just like that video. i am thinking the noise is like valve train or exhaust.
does the radioator have to come out to replace it? i put a %25 under on my fbody and it was an easy swap. i would keep stock size on this as it seems nobody goes for an underdrive. any reason why?
does the radioator have to come out to replace it? i put a %25 under on my fbody and it was an easy swap. i would keep stock size on this as it seems nobody goes for an underdrive. any reason why?
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Radiator has to come out. Refer to this informing write-up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ls6-cts-v.html
ATI has a 10% UD pulley. I think powerbond and maybe a few others have 25% UD Pulleys. There has been some debate on powerbond pulley's (causing timing chains to break) which made me NOT go with them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ain-break.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-cure.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ls6-cts-v.html
ATI has a 10% UD pulley. I think powerbond and maybe a few others have 25% UD Pulleys. There has been some debate on powerbond pulley's (causing timing chains to break) which made me NOT go with them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ain-break.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-cure.html
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i ran a powerbon on my camaro for yeaaaaars and beat the hell out of it until 185k and never had an issue. but i agree ATI is the better choice if you have the $.
#12
Anything inherently wrong with going with a stock balancer again? Or, would it be okay to roll the dice with a powerbond if you had a machine shop balance it first?
Last edited by DarkCharisma; 09-13-2013 at 06:32 PM.
#16
Radiator has to come out. Refer to this informing write-up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ls6-cts-v.html
ATI has a 10% UD pulley. I think powerbond and maybe a few others have 25% UD Pulleys. There has been some debate on powerbond pulley's (causing timing chains to break) which made me NOT go with them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ain-break.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-cure.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ls6-cts-v.html
ATI has a 10% UD pulley. I think powerbond and maybe a few others have 25% UD Pulleys. There has been some debate on powerbond pulley's (causing timing chains to break) which made me NOT go with them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ain-break.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-cure.html
You do not have to remove the radiator. Yes, you have to drain coolant, and remove the fan, but there is no need to get under the car and undo the lower radiator bolts. Less time, plus not having to get under the car is a huge deal.
#17
good luck. I tried doing it without and after fighting it just pulled it and fans all in one. took less time then fighting the damn fans. using a ATI stock and love it.
#18
I did the whole 9 yards ( pulling radiator ) the weekend before when I had to pull off the front cover to tighten down the cam gear bolts that somehow managed to loosen up ( never been apart to my knowledge ) and allow the gear to destroy the CPS. Noticed the balancer was junk while It was apart so I had to order a replacement. Much easier when you dont have to get under the car and remove the undertray, and the lower rad bolts.
Just make sure you use the OTC 6667 puller. Made specifically for lower clearance applications. Theres no way I could have done it with the puller that I used the weekend before.
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