sick_tight

So my M12 had a grind going into 3rd and 4th gear. I found someone on CF.com with a stock trans for sale and buy it, i have an RPM built 3.90 rear diff so the M12 trans was really not ideal IMO for city driving and i read that a lot of road racers/auto-x-ers swap to the base model trans as well. (what i eventually want to do)

so first thing i do is build some ramps/platform




and i get right to it













then i swapped everything over, and put it back up but before i did i had to get the remote bleeder line!


and after i get everything put back together (minus calipers and wheels since im going with SS lines and bleeding the brakes). i tighten my reverse indicator sensor and...
(it was completely flush this is about an hour of getting it out)


FINALLY


while doing my swap i think i may have found out what my ticking noise was. on my passenger collector i noticed it was scraped pretty good and theres a good 1.5 inch crack in the weld! (id take a picture and up load it but of course my phone has blown up...)

now just waiting on the lines. and then bleeding my brakes and ill be completely done.

427zm

iTrader: (9)

Glad to hear the ticking is an exhaust leak! What a relief!

Nice work. Hope to see this beast again soon!

sick_tight

thanks! this was definitely a pain in the ***! but im not 100% sure it was just an exhaust leak, i havent started it up yet to confirm thats where its all coming from but im hoping it is so all i have to do is take it into an exhaust shop and have a quick weld job done.

i did do the stethoscope method before tearing into this but there wasnt any pronounced noise so im thinking its just the exhaust.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Looks like a pina to work on

sick_tight

hardest parts were getting the exhaust off/on, getting the cradle off/on from underneath since it only dropped so much with my platforms i built, and getting the angle just right for the driveline to go back in.

oh and gutting the Cats was fun...

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Did you really have to pull the motor to get the tranny out?

sick_tight

no just the torque tube, trans, rear diff, and cradle for the rear end + all the stuff to get to drop it, but the motor stayed in place. i did take off the intake because there is warnings not to exceed a certain angle when dropping because you may crack the intake or firewall

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I like the drive on ramps! Be careful putting it back in there as an assembly as it's easy to bend the clutch disc or damage the pilot bearing with all that weight if you don't get aligned just right. Chris, 817-750-2000

sick_tight

I did my best to ease the torque tube through the clutch, ive got a twin disc McLeod (previous owner installed) and it went in fairly easy after i oppened the bottom half of the clutch housing. the only resistance i got was from the stupid wire harness directly above so i had to unbolt it and move it out of the way for the 1000th time. but thats the only thing i was worried about was the pilot bearing, I think its fine but if i did happen to damage it what would a symptom be? vibration?

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

That or issues with clutch disengagement. That wiring loom can be pesky. One of the positives of a C5 is the inspection cover.

sick_tight

ok so i got everything back together, must be doing the relearn because after a couple min it starts going super low idle. i can definitely feel the exhaust leak so i think thats my issue with the ticking. i heard some ridiculous rattling but i hit the exhaust with my hands and i think its the header bolt that dropped and disappeared. im pretty sure it landed in my collector on the outside i guess ill grab a magnet and try and grab it. (spent an hour + looking for it and it was nowhere near the accessories or belt) other than that i think its good to go, no codes or anything.

i didnt feel like it was hard to engage the clutch, granted i only rocked it on the platform but all the gears were fine. Ill take it for a spin tomorrow and fill you guys in.

thanks for the info and support!

sick_tight

ok, updates

started her up and after warmup she was running rough, would hold about 500rpm and want to die out and no throttle response, if i held the throttle at 1500 it would slowly creep down and want to die out even with the pedal in the same position. so i was thinking it was a vaccuum leak with the PCV system or when i bolted the intake back on. I pulled the codes,damn do i love the ability to do that on the information display. even though i have one of those cheapo code readers.

so i had a P0135 and a light bulb turned on in my head, i plugged the o2 bank 1 sensor 1 into the rear o2 sensor plug so it wasnt giving the computer any reading.

so i jacked the car up and swapped the plug and tah dah back to normal.

drove the car into work and it seems like 2nd and 6th you have to make sure the shifter really goes into the gear otherwise it will pop out, i dont have to jam it but just make sure its all the way back. and the trans is a little chattery (seemingly normal) other than that the car is back to normal.

and as for the pilot bearing, when i push the clutch in theres zero sound so im thinking that i didnt eff it up on install haha

thanks everyone, without cf.com and this place id be up **** creek without a paddle

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

It looks like you pulled the shifter completely out instead of the linkage, but did you make sure it's aligned so that you're getting full travel to go into even gears?

sick_tight

i had to take the linkage off as well when i seperated the tube from the trans but everything seemed lined up when it put it back together. it looks like the shifter "box" on the torque tube is adjusted fully forward, maybe it can go a little more.