Colbear96z

Ok guys I can't seem to get the clutch to disengage. The car is jacked up off the around and every time I push in the clutch and put in first, the tires spin.


I just installed a luk/ls6 clutch with brand new flywheel, disk and pressure plate. New slave cylinder and master cylinder with the "AP" logo on them and a tick speed bleeder. And a new pilot bushing.

I bench bleed the master and slave. Torqued the flywheel to 74 foot pound, and the pressure plate to 54 foot pound.installed everything with a buddy of mine. Today after work I started to bleed away at it, but nothing seems to change with disengagement issue.

Did I do everything right? Or did I forget something, I've only gone threw a half bottle of the big dot 3 break fluid.

Colbear96z

Oh and yes I did put fluid back into the trans, even tho that prolly wouldn't cause the disengagement issue, just might sound like King Kong bangin around in the trans lol

Colbear96z

Idk if this has to do with anything but I also did the drill mod on the stock line.

Colbear96z

When bleeding last night I started with a mityvac, got a lot of bubbles threw the res, then switched to the speed bleeder line.

I cracked up the end of the bleeder about 1/4 turn, and out that in a bottle of clean dot 3. I filled the res, pumped slowly 4 times, checked res and filled. I did that about 10 times. Pedal felt good but still had about an inch of dead space, I began to pump just that portion. After that I called it quits for the night.

This morning, the pedal felt the same as last night so I don't think I have a leak anywhere. I did quite a bit of reading last night with people with the same problem, and there problems either went away with bleeding and driving it, or upgrading to a tick adj master.

With the car on the ground, it was hard to get into any gear, but finally got it in 1st. I drove about a mile around my neiborhood, and it started to get Easier to put in gear. Also the clutch is engaging at the bottem of the pedal(on the floor). From my understanding the engagement should go up as the car is drivin, usually within the first 100 miles.

Am I missing anything? Anything else I should try? Is my bleeding correct?

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

With the play in the top of the pedal and the low engagement it sounds like you still have air in the system, also did you really use a pilot bushing or did you mean bearing?

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Did you measure for the need of a shim when you installed the clutch? Your set up may have required a shim behind the slave. If that was the case, the throw out bearing can't extend far enough to completely disengage the clutch, hence why its engaging off the floor and the tires are spinning in first gear with the clutch pedal pressed down.

This is what happened to me. I didn't measure for a shim and the clutch was engaging almost right off the floor. I bled that thing everyway imaginable. I put so much darn clutch fluid through that thing and it never changed. Instead of pulling the entire trans down and measuring for a shim and having to buy a shim, I just ordered the Tick Master. Then you can adjust how far the throw out bearing extends and dial it in perfect. Even with a shim you could end up with the pedal still not quite being where you want it to be. Then what? You have to pull the Transmission down and try another shim? It's just crazy to me, I'm 100% for getting an adjustable Master like the Tick.

Colbear96z

I bleed it more, I've only gone threw 3/4 of the big bottle of dot 3. And yes I put a bushing it instead of the roller pilot. The roller pilot was absolutely destroyed, and have read when it fails it can ruin your input shaft.

Colbear96z

I didn't measure for a shim, I just thought that since it was a stock clutch that was already in the car with new stock hydralics, I wouldn't need one. I mean it's the same set up in a 01 or 02 car? I've drivin the car about 30 miles so far, and the clutch seems to be coming up a little bit.
But I hear you, I'm about to the point to order a tick!

Colbear96z

Ok guys, I have 80 miles on the car and no change with the pedal, or the engagement right off the floor.
I just can't seem to get rid of the dead space at the top of the pedal.for bleeding I just stuck the speed bleeder line in the res since it's all brand new fluid. I'm just pumping and pumping.

Colbear96z

I'm almost 100% sure I'm gonna order a tick master this Thursday and with shipping I should have it by the middle of next week.

Do you think it safe to drive the car with this disengagement problem?

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

I'd try to avoid driving it if possible. If the clutch isn't being fully disengaged all the way when you are shifting you could start to wear out your synchros/shift forks if it's notchy getting it into gear. If it's nice and smooth getting into gear it should be ok.

Colbear96z

Update, I went at it bleeding again. When I was using the speed bleeder, I was turning the solo bleeder about 1/4 turn and just pumping and checking/filling res.

This time I turned the bleeder 1/2 turn and stuck it in the res and just pumped away at it. Not fast pumping but nice and slow. Then I started pumping just the too of the pedal where I felt the dead space.

I got out of the car and closed the bleeder and the pedal felt great!! There's still a fraction of a inch at the top of the pedal, but heard that the shaft going into the piston will always have a a slight dead spot. I went for a test drive for about 10 miles and it felt alot better then before.

Pedal is always nice and firm. The engagement of the clutch is not on the floor anymore. Not where it should be but alot better then where it was.Its alot easier getting into first and reverse from a dead stop, and it shifts fine in any gear.

No vibrations in the pedal, or grinding going into any gear. From what I read from other threads on here, the pedal and engagement should go up off the ground. I guess it something about the ls6 and ls7 sas pressure plate adj correctly when brand new? I have no idea, but I'm gonna see how if it gets to be 100%, if not by Thursday, tick master is going to be ordered

Colbear96z

Update, this morning the pedal was soft again. Guess I have a leak some where. When bleeding the slave and master before putting trans back in, I made sure the slave was not leaking at the tick bleeder line. I almost 100% sure the line was installed correctly.

I'm really thinking the factory clutch line is leaking going from master to slave. There over 100$ so I'm just gonna replace the master and line with the tick master. I just tried giving them a call but noone answered(lunch hour). Any one know how fast there shipping is with out paying for 1 day shipping? I can't order till Thursday

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure mine took about two weeks to get to me. It was a little bit of a wait. I think it was almost a week before it even shipped out, and then about a week to get to me.

To check if your master or the line have a leak you can disconnect the master from the slave. then go up into the car and put your foot on the clutch pedal and put some pressure on it for a while. If it doesn't have any leaks the pedal should stay rock hard and won't go anywhere. But if you have a leak the pedal will start to sink down slowly as air/fluid escape from the leak.

Colbear96z

Damn hopefully it's not two weeks, I see your in Nevada, hopefully only a week or less since I'm in Florida. I'm going to disconnect the line going into the slave and see what happens, thanks