Monster Stage 1 First Impressions
#1
Launching!
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Monster Stage 1 First Impressions
Hey guys.
I just got my car back after having a Monster stage 1 put in. Car already has tick master cyl and an MGW shifter (with lingenfelter **** - highly recommended)
Also has ARH catless long tubes, Madhammer exhaust, and a laptop tune. rest is stock down to the paper air filter.
I have no more plans for adding power to this car. I'm really happy with the drivability/performance/fuel efficiency it has right now.
When I was clutch shopping, I could not really find any reviews of the Monster Stage 1. Seems everyone on here has the 2 or above. I only visit the drag strip a couple times a year, and when i do, I don't ride the clutch out. So I thought the Stage 1 would fit my needs.
I also strongly considered the LS7 clutch, but I figured if anything this stage 1 was a little bit better in every way, so I decided to gamble on it pretty much. Reviews on the LS7 were all over the board.
I had read where some had complained about the higher stages of monster having too firm of a pedal. Others complained about chatter and this and that, but I hoped that I wouldn't have such issues with a relatively mild version of a monster clutch in the stage 1. I also read that the stage 3 was known to burn out prematurely if you try to daily drive it. But I was sure that the stage 1 would fit my needs so why not save the $50 over a stage 2?
I also went with the standard steel flywheel. I don't road race my car, and I wanted to be able to let out my clutch without giving my car ANY gas, so I went with a flywheel that was even heavier than my stock one.
I did not notice any loss of power with the heavier flywheel. Not saying I actually didn't, just that what I might have lost does not matter to me. This is really just my weekend cruiser.
Also, the pedal did not feel any stiffer to me at all. I noticed a difference when I switched to the Tick MC, but not really any diff between clutches.
I am very happy with the way it drives. I have no chatter, and it just performs very well. If it keeps performing this way I'll be VERY happy I went with this stage 1. I just thought I'd put a review out there for anyone in my position.
If anything changes I will report back here but until then I'll enjoy my nice muscle car!
I just got my car back after having a Monster stage 1 put in. Car already has tick master cyl and an MGW shifter (with lingenfelter **** - highly recommended)
Also has ARH catless long tubes, Madhammer exhaust, and a laptop tune. rest is stock down to the paper air filter.
I have no more plans for adding power to this car. I'm really happy with the drivability/performance/fuel efficiency it has right now.
When I was clutch shopping, I could not really find any reviews of the Monster Stage 1. Seems everyone on here has the 2 or above. I only visit the drag strip a couple times a year, and when i do, I don't ride the clutch out. So I thought the Stage 1 would fit my needs.
I also strongly considered the LS7 clutch, but I figured if anything this stage 1 was a little bit better in every way, so I decided to gamble on it pretty much. Reviews on the LS7 were all over the board.
I had read where some had complained about the higher stages of monster having too firm of a pedal. Others complained about chatter and this and that, but I hoped that I wouldn't have such issues with a relatively mild version of a monster clutch in the stage 1. I also read that the stage 3 was known to burn out prematurely if you try to daily drive it. But I was sure that the stage 1 would fit my needs so why not save the $50 over a stage 2?
I also went with the standard steel flywheel. I don't road race my car, and I wanted to be able to let out my clutch without giving my car ANY gas, so I went with a flywheel that was even heavier than my stock one.
I did not notice any loss of power with the heavier flywheel. Not saying I actually didn't, just that what I might have lost does not matter to me. This is really just my weekend cruiser.
Also, the pedal did not feel any stiffer to me at all. I noticed a difference when I switched to the Tick MC, but not really any diff between clutches.
I am very happy with the way it drives. I have no chatter, and it just performs very well. If it keeps performing this way I'll be VERY happy I went with this stage 1. I just thought I'd put a review out there for anyone in my position.
If anything changes I will report back here but until then I'll enjoy my nice muscle car!
Last edited by homerz28; 09-19-2013 at 05:38 PM.
#3
On The Tree
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I have this same clutch, very happy with the way it performs. I came from a ls7 setup and it was a huge pain in the ***. I could never get that thing to operate correctly. This clutch is so smooth and stock like which was a big deal for me since I daily my car. Glad I made the switch!
#4
Clutch life is very dependant on the use. They are just like brake pads...beat on them and they will wear quicker. But I guess the material does play a part.
I don't know what research you did, but the Monster Level 2 and Level 3 don't have firm pedals as far as I can tell nor chatter. I had absolutly no chatter with my Level 2. I had a Centerforce DF before and it chatter'd at times.
IMHO...You should have spent the extra $50. If you plan to increase your power, your going to wish you had the extra holding capacity.
I don't know what research you did, but the Monster Level 2 and Level 3 don't have firm pedals as far as I can tell nor chatter. I had absolutly no chatter with my Level 2. I had a Centerforce DF before and it chatter'd at times.
IMHO...You should have spent the extra $50. If you plan to increase your power, your going to wish you had the extra holding capacity.
#5
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I just don't see me doing much more with the car power wise, and I was afraid the later stages wouldn't be as daily drivable so I went level 1 and saved 100 when you consider I also did not go with the lightweight flywheel like most do
#6
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I would like to add that I have driven a buddys C5 who has a stage 2 and I remember his clutch being VERY firm, so I was worried about that. I would not want to daily drive a clutch like his
#7
FormerVendor
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The Level 1-4 pressure plates are all the same and as mentioned the life of a clutch being a wear item is very user dependent. With that being said the more aggressive the friction material the shorter the life expectancy all other things being equal as the bulb that burns brightest burns shortest
Glad you're happy, thanks again for choosing a Monster!
Glad you're happy, thanks again for choosing a Monster!
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#12
Launching!
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Yes the LPE E k n o b is overpriced but it is smaller than the stock one and fits in my hand better. I'm happy with it. A new hurst is like 70 and I needed a replacement so I thought I would try it and I'm glad I did
#13
TECH Senior Member
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Gottcha. Thought maybe it had some magic dust on it that made you shift faster
When I order my MGW shifter, I'm going to get the "gripper ****". It's well priced and look nice. If you order the MGW shifter in the 12mm pattern, you can use the Mustang 12mm shift ***** they sell.
When I order my MGW shifter, I'm going to get the "gripper ****". It's well priced and look nice. If you order the MGW shifter in the 12mm pattern, you can use the Mustang 12mm shift ***** they sell.
#14
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I'll chime in here as I went with a stage 1 as well. Just as the OP, my car is bolt on only and would never see a cam or heads. I also only hit the track maybe once a year if that for a few passes on street tires.
The two reasons I went with the Stage 1 is I didn't need room to grow, so the stage one saved me $50 as opposed to the stage 2 I didn't need. The next reason was I did a lot of research and wanted an organic clutch disk, the stage 2 disk is kevlar or part kevlar (can't remember). From the research I did, it's my opinion that the kevlar disk would wear slightly faster than the stage 1 organic disk, and the kevlar disk is more of a on off type material, where organic is better for slipping/ daily driving. Since I wanted my car to drive like stock I went for the stage 1. I've also noticed it's a little hit or miss for guys with the stage 2/3 reporting some chatter. Again, from everything I've read kevlar disks can have a tendency to chatter which is another reason I went organic.
My stock clutch disk was actually fine, but the stupid stock PP was getting me locked out of gear. If I could I would have just bought a Monster Pressure plate and kept my stock disk and wheel but if I was pulling the entire tranny off I might as well replace everything. My stock Fly and disk had 89,000 miles on them so it would have been stupid to leave them on.
The two reasons I went with the Stage 1 is I didn't need room to grow, so the stage one saved me $50 as opposed to the stage 2 I didn't need. The next reason was I did a lot of research and wanted an organic clutch disk, the stage 2 disk is kevlar or part kevlar (can't remember). From the research I did, it's my opinion that the kevlar disk would wear slightly faster than the stage 1 organic disk, and the kevlar disk is more of a on off type material, where organic is better for slipping/ daily driving. Since I wanted my car to drive like stock I went for the stage 1. I've also noticed it's a little hit or miss for guys with the stage 2/3 reporting some chatter. Again, from everything I've read kevlar disks can have a tendency to chatter which is another reason I went organic.
My stock clutch disk was actually fine, but the stupid stock PP was getting me locked out of gear. If I could I would have just bought a Monster Pressure plate and kept my stock disk and wheel but if I was pulling the entire tranny off I might as well replace everything. My stock Fly and disk had 89,000 miles on them so it would have been stupid to leave them on.
#15
I'll chime in here as I went with a stage 1 as well. Just as the OP, my car is bolt on only and would never see a cam or heads. I also only hit the track maybe once a year if that for a few passes on street tires.
The two reasons I went with the Stage 1 is I didn't need room to grow, so the stage one saved me $50 as opposed to the stage 2 I didn't need. The next reason was I did a lot of research and wanted an organic clutch disk, the stage 2 disk is kevlar or part kevlar (can't remember). From the research I did, it's my opinion that the kevlar disk would wear slightly faster than the stage 1 organic disk, and the kevlar disk is more of a on off type material, where organic is better for slipping/ daily driving. Since I wanted my car to drive like stock I went for the stage 1. I've also noticed it's a little hit or miss for guys with the stage 2/3 reporting some chatter. Again, from everything I've read kevlar disks can have a tendency to chatter which is another reason I went organic.
My stock clutch disk was actually fine, but the stupid stock PP was getting me locked out of gear. If I could I would have just bought a Monster Pressure plate and kept my stock disk and wheel but if I was pulling the entire tranny off I might as well replace everything. My stock Fly and disk had 89,000 miles on them so it would have been stupid to leave them on.
The two reasons I went with the Stage 1 is I didn't need room to grow, so the stage one saved me $50 as opposed to the stage 2 I didn't need. The next reason was I did a lot of research and wanted an organic clutch disk, the stage 2 disk is kevlar or part kevlar (can't remember). From the research I did, it's my opinion that the kevlar disk would wear slightly faster than the stage 1 organic disk, and the kevlar disk is more of a on off type material, where organic is better for slipping/ daily driving. Since I wanted my car to drive like stock I went for the stage 1. I've also noticed it's a little hit or miss for guys with the stage 2/3 reporting some chatter. Again, from everything I've read kevlar disks can have a tendency to chatter which is another reason I went organic.
My stock clutch disk was actually fine, but the stupid stock PP was getting me locked out of gear. If I could I would have just bought a Monster Pressure plate and kept my stock disk and wheel but if I was pulling the entire tranny off I might as well replace everything. My stock Fly and disk had 89,000 miles on them so it would have been stupid to leave them on.
First the Monster Level 2 is not Kevlar, It's organic. I drove mine daily and took it to the track often. It is not an "on-off" clutch and engages smooth like it should. It drives like stock. It does have a marcel cushion between the friction surfaces.
Now if all your looking for is a stock replacement that's a little better than OEM, there is nothing wrong with the level 1. All I'm saying, is if you are installing the clutch your self you want to make sure it's done right the first time. That's worth $50 to me! It truly is alot of work and a PIA to pull the transmission and bleed the hydraulics. Something I don't want to do more than once! If that!
Preparing for future power is actually saving you $$ in the long run.
It's better to have a clutch that can handle any future upgrade even if you don't think you are going to do it because you never know.
#16
TECH Fanatic
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I talked to Steve personally through email in March and asked him what the difference between the stage 1 and stage 2 kits were. I asked him if the stage 2 had a higher rated PP and he said stage 1-4 have the same pressure plate and it was because the stage 2 disk incorporates Kevlar (That's why I said I couldn't remember if it was Kevlar or Part Kevlar).
From what I've gathered through posts from Monster themselves as well as many forum members over the years is that Kevlar clutches tend to be a bit more "grabby" than full organic discs, hence why I said "more of" an on/off clutch in comparison to a full organic disc. I've heard lots of guys including my brother say their stage 2 is very smooth and streetable. I've also heard a lot of guys say their stage 2's have a bit of chatter at times and feel grabbier than a stock/organic clutch. Again, that's just the conclusion I came to through my searching.
I agree with a clutch change being a big job and choosing the right clutch for your application. I did the entire install with a camera to show people how much work it can be.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...level-1-a.html
From what I've gathered through posts from Monster themselves as well as many forum members over the years is that Kevlar clutches tend to be a bit more "grabby" than full organic discs, hence why I said "more of" an on/off clutch in comparison to a full organic disc. I've heard lots of guys including my brother say their stage 2 is very smooth and streetable. I've also heard a lot of guys say their stage 2's have a bit of chatter at times and feel grabbier than a stock/organic clutch. Again, that's just the conclusion I came to through my searching.
I agree with a clutch change being a big job and choosing the right clutch for your application. I did the entire install with a camera to show people how much work it can be.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...level-1-a.html
#20
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