TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up my first LSx engine/trans. It's a LS2/T56 dropout from an '06 GTO. The engine trans are hanging from the hoist in the garage (resting on blocks) and I want to separate the trans/bellhousing from the engine so I can get the engine on a stand.

I've removed the bellhousing bolts and though I haven't pulled very hard, the two are still mated quite tightly. I don't want to do anything stupid so I'm wondering if there is anything I'm overlooking? I don't have any experience with hydraulic slave cylinders. Is there something I need to do with the slave?

Or do I simply need to pry the bellhousing from the engine? Again, so far I've simply removed the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks.

Tipsy

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Remove all the outside perimeter bolts and the two will seperate.

Jeremy@RPMTransmissions

iTrader: (12)

Make sure you have taken the two bolts that mount the bellhousing to the oil pan. If not you will break the bellhousing or oil pan. If those are out then the steel dowel pins might be corroded inside the bellhousing. It will take some work to break it free.

s14kouki

iTrader: (2)

Listen to this guy. Also Jeremy i tried visiting your website and it didnt work for me =/

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I did get the two lower bolts that thread into the oil pan (eight bolts total).

I very gently used a pry bar in the little relief slot on the left side of the block and there is definitely movement. But the the right side doesn't want to move, although I'm prying very gently because this is an aluminum block.

Dumb question, but the starter doesn't need to be removed, does it?

Tipsy

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

The left side is definitely separated. The right side (just above the starter) doesn't want to give. I think it's as Jeremy suggested; the dowl pin on the right hasn't broken free.

I'm just very leery to pry with any more force. As it is, the little slot/relief that (I assume) is meant to allow a pry bar to be inserted, is starting to deform.

Tipsy

dckmn52

service information will tell you it does.

sometimes they just are lodged in there really good. the two metals heating up overtime the kindof stick together, and buildup in the dowels doesnt really help.

usually coming apart is the easy part. the hard part for me is getting it lined up and back in again.

if you walked into the dealer and saw me prying one off, your jaw might hit the floor lol. we dont exactly have time to dick around with removing things, so i use a 4 foot prybar most of the time.
~Madams

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Success! Wow, this is the first project car I've had since I was in high school (last was a '67 Camaro with a 383 & a B&M blower). Other than messing with motorcycles, I've been on a wrenching hiatus for the past 20 years. This is my first experience with an aluminum block...and it's nerve wracking!

I used a couple of pry bars as suggested and slowly walked the two apart. Even as careful as I was, there still some minor aluminum deformation. This dissimilar metal thing definitely makes things a little interesting. I had to use a three foot pipe on a breaker bar to remove the two starter bolts.

Anyway, thanks for the help. It's nice to be back to wrenching!

Tipsy