Macgilliosa

Hey so i bought my 2002 z28 with 50000 miles on it about 3 months ago after i sold my beloved v6 2005 accord, and ive gotta say i love the change! Ill have to say the accord was a nicer car but boy oh boy you just cant beat a good ole v8! Anyways this upcoming winter i will be storeing it for probably about 6 months cause up in nova scotia where i live the winters are brutally hard on cars! And this thing has never even seen rain before i got it so i wasnt gunna put it through that haha. So first i had thoughts of doing a n/a built but i figured a turbo built would be better for me in almost every aspect accept for price haha, now i read all the truck manifold how to guides but does anybody know the exact measuremeants to cut the pipeing? Also do you 100% have to move the radiator? And if so can you just re use the stock one as aposed to aftermarket? Also i wont be ruing anymore then 6-8 psi until i have money for some forged internals so i dont hurt anything but is there anything else i could do that isnt to pricey as far as preventative maintenance? Whats the cheapest one of you has built a front mount kit? Or would you sujest a rear mount for a budget? I will be doing all the work myself allthough i might get a friend to do some of the welding as he is trained in it and i am not haha. Really anythin you can tell me about how to do a good turbo setup right without breaking the bank would be great! Also i was thinking i would be somewhere around 450-500 whp so what fues system upgrades would i need for that? Just any tips and tricks to help me out would be great guys, thanks alot

DEFYANT

If you only want 450-500rwhp there would be no need for F.I. of any sort. If you're dead set on it though.

• Unless someone will take measurements will building there setup, I don't know of any measurements. It's a trail and error thing.
• You don't have to move the radiator, just make sure the turbo you choose is small enough to fit.
• Really not much preventative maintenance, make sure your tune is good. Also, an LS1 can handle 10lbs.
• Overbuild your fuel system, I would do twin Walbro 255s and 80lb Injectors.

Macgilliosa

yeah i know i would probably not need F.I for my power goal but i figured i may as well do it now instead of doing an all motor build now then scrapping half the parts later for a turbo setup, and allright thanks for answering the question on the fuel system! all the lines and fuel rail are good for alot more power correct? who makes good affordable injectors? also what would be a good size turbo for that setup with some room for power improvement but not to much boost lag for the stock displacement? i was thinking between 67 and 76 mm but not sure really, what do people here have good luck with? also does anyone know where the cheapest place to find a set of truck manifolds is? any other tips would be greatly apriciated, thanks

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

FYI - the NA build you won't have to scrap anywhere near half the parts; Only thing you'd have to swap out (depending on how much boost you want to run) is slugs (pistons), and the camshaft; everything else would work fine for either combo.

A 76mm turbo would be very large for a low-boost setup; you could grenade a stock LS1 with a T76 turbo (Those are good for 800hp on these motors).

For your HP goals, I'd honestly just do a proper NA build; then add the boost later.

DEFYANT

I agree, if you're absolutely set on Turbo a PT6766 would be fine for those power levels.

Macgilliosa

well wouldnt a good n/a build for 500 whp cost alot more? ive seen quite a few people do a nice turbo setup for between $2-3000 pretty easily and i dont think that could be done for the same as a n/a build, also i couldnt use the same headers or y pipe with a turbo, would need a re tune once i do a turbo, and its alot easier to bring a turbo up to alot more hp isnt it? which i would be doing in about a year after i install the kit, also i find it alot more bad *** to say i have a turbo camaro as opposed to a built camaro haha, but maybe thats just me haha so probably a 67 mm turbo would be what i want then? what hp levels is that size turbo good for?

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

The issue becomes if you do a turbo, the stock block is only good to about 10# of boost if properly inter-cooled/Meth'd. Once you're at that point, you need to break open the motor anyways to support more boost. 10#s is super easy to hit.

If you're already planning on boosting, then upping the boost; then you're going to have to open the motor anyways. Why not just build the motor first; then add boost in a year.

If you're just wanting it because you want to be cool; then do whatever you want. Just trying to make suggestions for the most reliable way to make power and boost.

Oh, and you can do a cheap turbo setup for 2-3k; but a proper high HP build is going to cost that much for the turbo/inter-cooler system; but there's LOTS of other items needed to support the HP. (Suspension, Fuel system, Transmission, Clutch/Torque Converter, etc).

Macgilliosa

Yes i had basically that idea but in the other way around do the turbo setup first as a winter project then over the summer/ fall do sow forged internals for mostly reliability reasons, there really isnt many fast street cars around where i live so i wont need much power to dominate the streets haha, the car people think is one of the fastest around here is a 300hp oem built jetta 1.8 so not much really! Just looking for a nice healthy street car that i can suprise some people with, i figured i could pick at the turbo project alot easier then i could a internal motor built because i cant build the motor in my garage haha, maybe you guys have the tools but i dont haha, anyways any more things anybody has to say to help me out ith this build would be awesome, thanks

winksozwm

I'd honestly just do a proper NA build; then add the boost later.

ZeeTwentyFate

iTrader: (19)

15# here on pump no meth and 14* timing at WOT... im on BS3 tho so im sure that helps me a LOT

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

Stock block only good to 10lbs? Wow you better tell pretty much every person with a boosted ls motor theyre doing it wrong. Coming from actual real world experience, a budget turbo build would be right up your alley vs NA. To make 450-500whp on an na build your drivability ia going to greatly suffer with a stock cube car. By the time youre dropped all the cash to actiually make the power, you could have had a turbo combo put together and could potentiallly have 100+ hp on tap if so desired. By using a smaller sized cam conpared to an NA setup you can keep stock like drivability qualities a well.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

Also the size of the turbo has no effect on if the mote "blows up" they invented wastegates to regulate the boost. However they will impact spool time and efficentcy. There Are thousands of 76mm kits on stock motors. You can always "detune" the setup to allow longevity of the stoxk motor but if you go small off the get go and want to make more power later on, youll be looking at buying parts all iver again

Macgilliosa

so what would you recomend for a turbo size then? to run a stock stall car good for about 450-500 whp now and later on about 600 or so whp? what would be a nice size turbo for those hp goals? or is that to wide of a power goal for just one turbo size? and those of you running turbos from the 67-76mm range how does the spooling time differ given the same quality turbo? also im a bit hazy on exactly what to do with the fuel system, ive had people tell me 80lb and 60lb injectors, what would honestly be the best for those power goals without spending money i dont need to? and as far as fuel pumps, does anyone know what lph the stock fuel pump is? and has anybody used the inline fuel pumps? can they be used in conjunction with the stock pump? and would a single 255 pump be enough for the first power goal at least? and then i could add another one later on? thanks for all the help guys, just trying to get everything i can straightened out, also what are some good websites or places to get good spiced turbo building supplies and equipment? thanks

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

(I did have wording that could have been misunderstood; I said stock block meaning stock short-block/stock lower-end; not the physical Block itself)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lity-list.html

Stock bottom end/motor - I see very few (maybe 3-4) who are over 10# of boost on a stock lower end; most of the guys in there are running 5-7#.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

change rod bolts, call it a day.

Preston99WS6

iTrader: (7)

If its going to be a street car pick up one of the 76/75's or a 78/79's because either of these will have plenty of growth potential spool fast, not choke your motor up in the upper RPM's like the tiny 66mm exhaust turbine will. Their also in a really small package and will fit in your current battery location very well. In fact the 78/79's are on sale right now. You don't have to worry about doing anything with the radiator until you step up to the larger framed T6 turbos S400's, GT45/55's ect.

Keeping the stock radiator/fan assembly/ condenser as is this will save you a huge headache with the cooling system. And save you about 500 dollars on a radiator and fans that can do the job.

Relocate the battery to the back. These kits can be bought from sponsors, Summit, JEGS, JC whitney ect and are usually around 100.00

Get an aftermarket overflow bottle for the radiator. Once again can be bought at your local Auto Zone, NAPA ect for around 20 dollars.

Put the turbo in the battery location there are several sponsors on this sight that can build the kit this way for you. I personally wouldn't run one of the kits that mount the turbo directly under the radiator for a few reason's. First is heat travels up and whats up, the radiator. Reason two you generally have to run aftermarket fans and its hard to beat the stock shroud and flow rate of the stockers the engineers at GM built these car this way for a reason. Three when the turbo is that low oil return usually requires the use of a return pump, thats extra draw on the alternator,The pump itself is something else to fail, something else to spend money on there are more potential leak locations. Cost will be dependent on what material you use who builds it ect expect to spend 800-100 dollars here on the cheap.

Run a pair of 255's in the tank, you can never have too much fuel. You have a few options either follow mightymouse's DIY thread (Its very easy to put the system together yourself) or buy one from a sponsor.

At least comp 918's or equivalent valve springs are a must and are the minimum. expect to spend about 150 dollars here for the minimum.

Grab some 80lb siemens delka injectors, their cost is not much more than 60s and are very easy to work with as far as tuning goes. Once again you can never have to much fuel. Can be found in the classifieds for around 300 dollars shipped. Keep the stock rail, you should have no problem hitting 700 RWHP with the stock rail.

Get a good wide band 02 sensor so you can monitor your A/F ratio.

Start looking for a 4l80E trans now, they can be had for pretty good deals if you hit up a U-pull it or Pick N Pull salvage yard during the sale or ****** one off of craigslist, Throw a shift kit in it and it will live a long time behind your car. The 4L60E is officially on borrowed time as soon as you make the switch.

Start saving for a good rear end, 9", DANA 60, 12 BOLT, Your 10 bolt was on borrowed time as soon as the car rolled off the assembly line, some people get lucky especially with auto's Ive seen them make several mid 6 second passes Ive also seen a stock T56 car grenade one that ran in the 8's. Regardless at FI power levels the auto will bust it all its got to do is hook up once and its gone.

As far as rod bolts go, I wouldn't even bother unless you plan and turning some high RPM's and believe me if you dont get away from the 66mm turbine you wont be doing that at all. I have never seen a stock rod bolt let go unless a rod bearing was spun even at higher RPM and you will know when that happens, oil pressure will warn you before it happens and you will hear it. IMO even then its a waste because the stock rod cap is going to let go.

As far as boost goes there are several on here that run 15-16 #'s in the 650-700RWHP region reliably on stock internals and this is done without even really opening up the motor.

I say go turbo over N/A anyday if you can afford it. Turbo FI will get nearly stock fuel mileage when your not beating on it, this cant be said about High stalled, Large Cam N/A cars. FI can also have a pretty good sleeper effect if your not constantly beating on it, cant really hide the sound of a large cam with a lot of overlap idling.

If you want it to be reliable get a good brand name wastegate and blowoff valve. My tial stuff has been on my car since 2003, 60K miles, a couple hundred track passes and has yet to give me any problems, pay more now or pay a lot more later when the gate sticks and your waiting on a tow truck, and have to replace the motor, because you chose to save 150 dollars. JMO.

Macgilliosa

Wow man thats alot that was an awesome responce, you answered everyquestion i asked and even some i didnt ask. Also where are the turbos your talkin about on sale? An where else can i get decent turbos for a good price? And is the any how to's on how to make a charge pipe go to the stock battery location? Thanks

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

LS1's are prone to rod bolt stretch, in turn spinning the rod bearings or worse the motor coming apart. They are cheap insurance for the stock rods. Gen 4 rods are not nearly as bad off as a Gen 3 set. That is what took out our original stock motor, only made 520whp and it came apart at under 4500 rpms.

Preston99WS6

iTrader: (7)

COMP turbo has the new 78/79's and they are on sale. the 76/75's, and 78/75's can be picked up from turbonetics dealers one that is a sponsor and comes to mind is Huron Speed.

Charge pipes are easy to make get some 3" 90 degree bends and some 3 " silicone couplers, T Bolt clamps, 3" straight pipe and plumb it from the outlet of turbo to the intercooler from the intercooler to the throttle body. It really is that simple, dont overthink it.

cory32690

For those power goals I would just put a set of valve springs in it and order the denmah kit from vsracing..with the number u want to hit you could get away with a single 255 and some 60lb injectors but I'm like everyone else I like making sure the fuel system is overkill for my goals because that 450-500hp ur talking about will easily change to I want 600-700-800hp by the time ur done..but for ur goals you could piece together a pretty cheap setup depending On how nice of turbo parts(turbo, bov, wastegate) some people get away with all ebay parts others won't buy anything other than know name brands