Beeterolds

I ran my 1983 Olds Cutlass at the strip last weekend and I have some tuning to do..

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=3&theater

The best time I ran was a 14.1 @ 97mph... my best 60ft was a lousy 2.1... the rest was a string of mid 14s... I've seen guys stab stock 5.3s in heavy cars and run better times!! What am i doing wrong?!?

I'm running a 2001 5.3 with an early LS1 cam, RPM intake 750 Q-jet. F-body manifolds to 2.25 x-pipe and glass packs.. The engine is healthy, it has over 100k on it but it has good compression and oil pressure.

The rest of the drive train is all Buick Grand National.. with a BQ code Th2004r with the D5 converter 2500 stall and an 8.5 rear with 3.73s

The car weighs 3500lbs ish
I shift at 5800... watch the video... I had 0 traction issues but I coulda walked out of the hole faster... I'm wondering if its my timing curve.. I was running the #4 pill until we chucked it... Im running total timing of 34 degrees but its not all in until 3000rpm...

Maybe I need a new curve? Will headers really make that much of a difference?? Or do I need to lose 100lbs hahah... let me know your thoughts I know a lot more of you have much more experience with tuning these things than I do.

Thanks!

Doug

jaywill

iTrader: (5)

can't c vid !

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Did you use a wideband when you tuned the Q jet? What AFR's is it running?

Also why such a low shift point? Did you upgrade the valve springs when you went to the LS1 cam or did you keep the truck springs?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

What is to total weight? Is it a stock converter? You sure t is 3.73 gears?

The manifolds and smallish exhaust aren't helping, you need to be shifting at 6000, as mentioned, do you have any clue where the carb is on the tune?

89gmcs15

iTrader: (7)

I don't know if shifting a extra 200 rpm is gunna improve your times a significant amount but it's not going to hurt it. What's the weight of your car? What were you expecting out of it? That's the worst thing to do, you set a goal of what you think it should run and it normally results in a letdown. Look at it this way, now you can really track your upgrades. To be honest, almost touching 13's with a near stock small engine isn't horrible. You didn't build a race car engine you can't expect race car times. Whats your stall at?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I agree with his aggravation, he should be able to get to the 13s, he just needs some tuning and what not.

What tires? The 60 drops ad he will have 13s.

Beeterolds

The converter is the stock D5 Grand National Converter... which stalls at 2500RPM... yes yes im sure they are 3.73s I had the cover off and I counted the teeth

Truthfully my goal was to run mid 13s... I felt it was a reasonable goal.. I am running the stock springs at the moment.. With LS6 springs on the bench to go in very soon...

I shifted it at 5800 because thats where it felt it needed to be shifted at... it wouldnt pull if I let it go any further which tells me springs/manifolds may be holding her back..

Beeterolds

Just the guy I wanted to talk to... I weighed the car at the scrap yard at 3500lbs..

I don't have a wideband 02 set up.. I haven't really felt the need to drop $200 even tho its an important piece of tuning equipment... I've just gone by reading the spark plugs which are nice with a light tan coating... Fuel pressure is set at 4.5psi and I even messed with it to see if anything changed and it did not..

The carb does not bog, hiccup, fart, pop, cough, puke, or spit... it just swallows and goes... so even though I don't have a wide band im going from the skin of my sack that the old Rochester is pretty close to where she needs to be

I was running MT et streets 255 60 15... I might wanna try a smaller tire next...

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Is it spinning at all? What size of tire and type? Does the car foot brake 2500?

Beeterolds

Nope, no spinning.... unless I don't warm up then i'll get a little squawk...

The brakes have a hard time holding it back with the slicks on I could foot brake it to 2000 thats about it... I'm thinking it might need a bit more converter...

I was running Mickey Thompson ET streets 255 60 15s.... It gripped perfectly...

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Ok, those should be short enough to let the 3.73s work, but at that weight it is still not enough gearing and converter. It is not getting to the torque band quick enough. Are you flashing off idle or pushing the converter up as high as it will go? You need to flash it, but a "friend" tht happens to have a 650 or 750 Holley laying around to use and hit the track, just for the heck of it.

Beeterolds

I never flashed it... I'll have to mess around next time..

I'm not sure if the carb is going to help honestly... I kinda like the Q-jets best of both worlds abilities... over 20mpg combined driving... and it runs great wide open this carb completely defies all the naysayers.. But it may be worth a shot... Honestly my next step is headers, bigger exhaust, and springs... I'm not looking to squeeze water out of a rock I would be pleased with a mid 13

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

The timing may be to high HELPING cause the power band to fall off. Lower that to 30 and go up or down according. Change the valve springs. Easy enough to do. LS1 stock valve springs go into float before 5400 rpm's. Moving the shift rpm won't do anything ATM. A big, fat holley will get you out of the hole quicker than the Q-jet (that's just the way it is)

Edit: Also in line with zones... every one of my LS engines has run faster flashing the stall.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I have never had a problem hitting 6k in any LS, but a LS1 cam and truck springs may be a issue?

EastTn6.0

You said that you were shifting at 5800? Have you adjusted the rev limit in the box. The factory setting on mine was 5500. If you have its obvious you know how to use the program. The number 4 CURVE has 29 degrees at 4300 and 36 from 6000 on. If it dosent ramp up from 29 to 30 something at 5800 you only have 29 degrees of timing and that sounds to me like to little for a low compression motor.

EastTn6.0

I think this will solve more problems than anything.

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

Valve float doesn't mean it stops revving it just doesn't pull as hard. Hot Rod picked up 50 hp with valve spring swap (all up top) on a stock LS1 Camaro because it hit valve float at 5400 RPM on the dyno.

Beeterolds

No I was running the #4 pill but chucked it in the trash... We recurved it but its not all in until 3000 and were running 34 degrees total...

I bumped the rev limiter up to 6200... But even then I never even hit it... Just falls on its face right before then.... The obvious signs of valve float are not apparent... But I have a feeling like everyone else they are subtly floating LOL.

Truthfully the way I can describe it is out of the hole its like walking a dog then after about 40-60ft its pulls like a mother f'r... midrange is very strong for the lil bastard...but top end is kinda lacking...then when I shift it falls right back into the meat of the torque curve....

I just gotta quit being lazy I can deal worth an hour of back pain to toss in the springs.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Since you have the F body manifolds and have built in O2 bungs I would look into borrowing a wideband. Might tell you something. The idea of borrowing a holley isn't a bad one. The Q jet is fine but I'm sure that adapter to make it fit the square flange manifold isn't helping.

89gmcs15

iTrader: (7)

Your et and mph is about right on par with each other, your 60' isn't rocket fast but that could be from a lack of power or the converter. I'd start changing/checking things on the motor like the tune, carb, headers, or even the converter (I don't see the converter significantly helping your trap speed but more your et due to hopefully a better 60'). Your low on power judging by your trap speed. But your 60', et, and trap speed aren't all over the place showing bad suspension and tire issues. Just a after thought, your trans isn't slipping or something is it?