New axle won't fit
09-30-2013, 05:47 PM
#1
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New axle won't fit Got this Z-28 a couple weeks ago, bent suspension and left axle. After a week my parts guy (recommended by other parts guys in town) said he gave up trying to get a used axle. I told him I'd found a new OEM axle a couple hours drive away. He called me back an hour later saying he'd have one in the next day, and he did.
I put it in and I couldn't get the thrust block (Paddle?) in. Decided to pull it out and measure it. Yep, the new one is bout .05 longer after the c-clip. Can I make it work? How? .05" thinner C-clip? Loosen carrier bolts? How much lash should I have?
I didn't use a wood block to beat it in so it's dinged up a bit. Haven't called yet to complain.
Is this a cheap import part or GM?
Like my $10 bearing puller? 2 lb dumbbell weights.
I put it in and I couldn't get the thrust block (Paddle?) in. Decided to pull it out and measure it. Yep, the new one is bout .05 longer after the c-clip. Can I make it work? How? .05" thinner C-clip? Loosen carrier bolts? How much lash should I have?
I didn't use a wood block to beat it in so it's dinged up a bit. Haven't called yet to complain.
Is this a cheap import part or GM?
Like my $10 bearing puller? 2 lb dumbbell weights.
Last edited by Big-foot; 09-30-2013 at 08:13 PM.
09-30-2013, 07:35 PM
#3
Wait a minute, you bought a car with "bent suspension and left axle" and are just replacing the axle? How do you know the housing is still straight?
Have you tried removing the wheel speed sensor? That usually allows the axle to push in a bit more, at least on a Ford 8.8" it does. In fact on the Ford, you'll have a very long, frustrating fight on your hands if you try and leave them in...
Have you tried removing the wheel speed sensor? That usually allows the axle to push in a bit more, at least on a Ford 8.8" it does. In fact on the Ford, you'll have a very long, frustrating fight on your hands if you try and leave them in...
09-30-2013, 07:49 PM
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$185 shaft vs $940 complete assembly. The housing looks straight to me and the shop.
Yes the sensor is out. New shaft installed, the C-clip was in and axle pulled back out. But it won't come out enough to clear the thrust block because, well look at the micrometer.
Yes the sensor is out. New shaft installed, the C-clip was in and axle pulled back out. But it won't come out enough to clear the thrust block because, well look at the micrometer.
10-01-2013, 03:19 PM
#6
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If you're certain the new axle is dimensionally the same as the old axle except for the extra .054 thou past the c-clip goove just machine that .054 off the end of the axle. Leave the paddle alone.
You have to make sure the remachined end is square, use a lathe or take it to a machine shop.
You have to make sure the remachined end is square, use a lathe or take it to a machine shop.
10-06-2013, 08:13 PM
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Well since there apparently aren't any workarounds and my parts guy gave up on finding a correct shaft I took it to a machine shop like Tom suggested. Five minutes and $10 later it was shortened. Took it home, cleaned up the cut end with a flat file and it went right in. Car drives and tracks well.
Thanks all, Tom.
SLP lid, not cut underneath yet.
I thought the seller said he installed a larger MAF, I'll look into it.
Dual Flowmaster exhaust, no cats (good thing the tags are good till 2015)
$2800 so far, not bad for such a clean Z. And if some moron hits me I can always pull the motor and 6 sp and install them into the 240Z like I had originally intended.
Thanks all, Tom.
SLP lid, not cut underneath yet.
I thought the seller said he installed a larger MAF, I'll look into it.
Dual Flowmaster exhaust, no cats (good thing the tags are good till 2015)
$2800 so far, not bad for such a clean Z. And if some moron hits me I can always pull the motor and 6 sp and install them into the 240Z like I had originally intended.
