00NavySLP

Someone help me out, I'm not sure what to search for to find the information I need so here it goes I have a 2000 camaro SS ls1/t56 and I was looking at the ls7 with aluminum flywheel kit from ws6store:
What t/o bearing do I use ls1 or ls7
What slave cylinder do I use ls1 or ls7
And what master cylinder should I upgrade to, I want to change it because I believe mine to be going out

MR_M

iTrader: (5)

Ls1 style throw out bearing and slave is what you need. And if you are going with an ls7 clutch, it would probably be good to get an adjustable master like the Tick unit. Without one, I was unable to get the ls7 to fully release until the pedal hit the floor board. (I switched to a monster, life is good now)

This is not always the case, but you never know with those clutch's with their adjustable pressure plates being very sensitive to going out of whack before they even make it to your install.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

Mr m is correct , the ls7 clutch is self adjusting and is known to block you out of gears when trying to shift at WOT , I have one and can't wait for money in the budget to ditch it so I can shift it quickly like other cars I have owned.

A lot of people say a tick master($300) will fix it but I have seen other posts with a tick/ls7 combo and still can't shift at rpm

maxpower_454

iTrader: (7)

I have a tick master installed as well as a LS7 clutch and shifting at high rpm isn't as smooth as it should be but not bad.

Not trying to hijack but quick question - how much HP is the LS7 clutch good for?

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

Well the LS7 itself is rated at 505hp so probably at least that.

I have a Ram Adjustable master cylinder, Stock style hydraulics, drill mod, and LS7 clutch, i like it. It is very smooth and i dont have trouble shifting at 6500 rpm 1-2, 2-3, or 3-4. It does require a little effort, but i always get in gear with no grinding.

I also might add that I bleed my clutch every year and have a heat shield on the master cylinder line to the tranny. I use Motul RBF600 for my clutch, best fluid i ever used.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

Can you shift quick enough to no lift shift in this scenario? I don't even dare try as long as it takes to pull my shifter into gear with my ls7 clutch and I am constantly flushing my hydraulics using the Ranger method at least once every week or so but I have a stock master , basically asking you if there is hope for no lift shift on ls7 setup

Philbo Baggins

When my factory clutch started dying i replaced it with the LS7 kit (flywheel also, the LS1 flywheel not entirely compatible. If you look at the two on the floor next to each other you can see the differences). Also replaced master and slave cylinders with new stock equipment. I haven't had any issues either driving in town or shifting at the track and never had a gear grind on me.

If you're going with the whole shibang then make your life easier and get tick's speed bleeder. Help you keep that clutch fluid pristine and only takes a few minutes so you can do it whenever you feel like from under the hood.



Also @ Maxpower_454 i read somewhere (might have been one of the guys representing SDPC who said it i'm not sure) that the LS7 clutch is rated for 525 WHP, assuming no overabundance of drag racing

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

I have taken mine to the strip plenty of times, shifting past 6k at least 100 times, this clutch has been in my car since 2008. I am very happy with it. I should mention i as well have a speed bleeder, it is routed right up next to me master cylinder, and i bleed it at least every year. I use ATE 200 (super blue w/o the blue die) brake fluid.

Philbo Baggins

Speed bleeder is the ****. Tick should get with GM to include that as an option extra on their cars lol


Edit:
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/bra...-distribution/
NOOOOO