orion4096

iTrader: (5)

Any ideas on how to remove what's left of this main to input shaft bearing? I tried cutting a groove for a bearing separator, welding to heat it up, and a 12-ton HF press. Ended up breaking the bearing separator edge and the press was pretty much maxed out. All I had to do on the other mainshaft was press off the synchro assembly and the bearing came with it. This bearing was already destroyed before I pulled the transmission apart. Bigger press and better bearing separator?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

As messed up as that is, I'd try welding a nut to the remains and wrenching it until it comes off. And put something over the rest of the shaft for protection...

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Your welding may have screwed you; that will contract the race once cooled and lock it on tighter. Welding is useful for removal of races pressed inside a shaft versus that one pressed on the outside.

Either heat it up and use a good bearing separator to pull it.
No one would recommend notching it lengthwise so as to minimizing the damage to the o.d. where the bearing presses on. But, I've seen it on a few.

The 12t HF press has no advantage over a 20t.

What quality issues your bearing separator may or may not have had are tough to tell. If it's already junk, put the sharp edges in between the base of the race and the mainshaft and tighten the two sides; you may lift it a little which will make it easier to remove.

Put your location in your profile; if you were in Phx, I'd tell you to bring it over.

orion4096

iTrader: (5)

I only welded a tiny bit on each side... was hoping that would heat it up so I could press it out right away, but now I realize that was a mistake. I can cut that part off easy enough. I'm in northern CA so Arizona is a bit far. My plan is to try a nearby AAMCO tomorrow morning and hope to run into a tech that takes pity on my problem. Not sure if they rebuild stuff on-site, though. Might also try a machine shop.

The 12-ton press cost me $20 used so I couldn't turn it down. The previous owner was upgrading to a 20-ton. This is the first time it failed me.

orion4096

iTrader: (5)

Brought it to aamco this morning and the tech was on vacation so gave up on them. Went down the street to a Mazda/Rotary shop that I've been to before ... not sure they like me since I drive a ls1 rx7. Had to leave it there, but they were able to get it off. Looks like it spun and generated some serious heat. This definitely wasn't caused by my dremel or welding work. I was hoping to sell this mainshaft, but it doesn't look salvageable. The shop said I could try emery paper and pressing on a new bearing. Not sure it's worth it. FYI, this tranny was supposedly run dry for about 100 miles. All the other bearings were still functioning and easy to get off. I guess this one took a beating in neutral/idle and is also relatively small.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

If that's the actual bearing race you could get it metal-spray welded and reground ($$$) or if the bearing is self-contained, just press on a new one with green Locktite.

orion4096

iTrader: (5)

Didn't know they made press fit loctite like green 603. That's pretty cool. This mainshaft was out of a c5z and I don't have a transaxle car to put it in so it will probably be made into a lamp.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

This bearing location is the first to go when oil is left out. The inner portion of the bearing assembly spins and welds to the shaft. Most are not salvageable....as well as the input where the cup resides.