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Got my 383 running with 6010 and e85 got timing questions

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Old 10-20-2013, 06:15 PM
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Default Got my 383 running with 6010 and e85 got timing questions

Hello all I finally got my 383 ls1 running in my jeep m715. Runs good. It has a victor jr intake. Quick fuel 750dp e85 carb calibrated by them. Have the Ngk 7 plugs gapped at .030 I have timing set at 0-15 degrees from 0-1000Rpm starts up and idles good. And from 1000-1500rpm 15-35degrees and 35 degrees from there to redline. How's that for timing? I'm having a converter issue doesn't let it rev up in drive but was told it can be a tune issue. Monday I will buy a afr gauge. To see how my afr is looking.
Old 10-20-2013, 11:57 PM
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I would probably open the plug gap to .035 on a 6 heat range. The timing might want another degree. That fuel is like 106 octane. You are running timing and a gap that I run on nitrous(timing before I pull 5-6 degrees).

Get a little more aggressive and see what it likes. The BTU burn on that fuel is much slower than gasoline from the pump.
Old 10-21-2013, 02:38 PM
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I can change timing while it's running right? And when I change something I have to save PC to msd and user data correct? I'm 23 don't know much about timing I'm just going with what I read of research.
Old 10-21-2013, 02:39 PM
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i run a custom 1000 holley e85 carb by eric at horsepower innovations on a 6.0 with square port heads. i don't have any issues with spark as i run a big hvcII coil, which will throw a spark with a burnt off plug strap. i make the same power from locked out 20 to 30+ timing, but run on lower side.

that 750 sounds on the small side, but should still work.
Old 10-26-2013, 08:34 PM
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I switched it to 37* max timing runs better. A lot better .84-.90 afr on wot .73 on idle don't like it too rich on idle. Tried messing with it got worse. But it's good now. The converter still don't let it rev up. I ordered a 4000 stall. Should have it in Tuesday. Button stuff on it and go to glamis next weekend.
Old 10-27-2013, 03:40 PM
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personally think its nothing to do with convertor. i'd be checking fuel and ignition first.

just little things like float level, needles not sticking, jet extensions etc.
Old 10-27-2013, 03:44 PM
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also check your spark table goes high enough up rev range, good leads etc
Old 10-27-2013, 04:59 PM
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My float level is half in the sight glass my redline is 7000rpm goes up in nuetral and park like nothing. My afr is good on wot. Too rich on idle thought. I don't know how to check the jet extensions and needles I'm 23 this is the first motor I have really messed with.
Old 10-27-2013, 08:30 PM
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sounds good so far. take the rear bowl off, some people (me included) use extensions that project the jets to the back of the bowl so they don't get uncovered during acceleration. the seat and needle allow fuel into the bowl (the tab on the float will open/close it). basically if the float level drops during abrun then you need to upgtade. i run 108 sec jets and they suck heaps of fuel, had to go to 150thou needle/seat.
Old 10-27-2013, 09:07 PM
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I'll check that out. And the way quick fuel spec'd the carb to me is
Primary jets 80. pri nozzle 35
Secondary. 90 sec nozzle 35
Iab 65 Needle and seat 130ss
Hi speed bleed. 28 Power valve 4.5
Old 10-27-2013, 10:39 PM
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what cam specs? as to me thats not enough e85 for 383. i run a 236/246, 613/613, 110 lsa on a 6.0 with 11.9:1 comp.
Old 10-27-2013, 11:14 PM
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239/242 .640 .638 112lsa 12.5 compression.



Took the rear bowl off this morning. Everything looked good. But when I put it back. It seamed that when I give it wot. The front squirters. Squirt as I accelerate. And the rears squirt as I let off the throttle not as I accelerate.

Last edited by 383lt1impala; 10-28-2013 at 03:37 PM.
Old 10-28-2013, 08:15 PM
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Picks of said jeep? lol.
Old 10-28-2013, 08:21 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...jeep-m715.html pics in there
Old 10-28-2013, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 383lt1impala
239/242 .640 .638 112lsa 12.5 compression.



Took the rear bowl off this morning. Everything looked good. But when I put it back. It seamed that when I give it wot. The front squirters. Squirt as I accelerate. And the rears squirt as I let off the throttle not as I accelerate.
Note, check the rear bowl on the pass side and look at the bottom, there is a little lever that is the acelorator pump. You could easily leave it down when putting the bowl back on and this would cause it to not work like you said.
Check that.
Old 10-28-2013, 08:30 PM
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yeah easy to miss the lever.

did it have jet extensions in the rear?
Old 10-28-2013, 08:36 PM
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Yes there were jet extensions. And I left the lever like I found it I'll double check tomorrow thanks guys I appreciate these tips.
Old 10-30-2013, 12:02 PM
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I checked it it's exactly like the front one. Also I finished the converter install and man it's a biggg difference. Burns out from a standstill with 37s pretty good. But I know I don't have the motors full potential. It still doesn't want to go to 7000 too much yet. Runs way better though.



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