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anyone have a rear speaker they are not using?

Old 10-26-2013, 01:50 PM
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Default anyone have a rear speaker they are not using?

I have one not working #25660131? I hate to put crappy BOSE back in, but don't have the money for a new set right now.
Old 10-26-2013, 02:06 PM
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I have a set of rear speakers, but literally anything you buy will be better than stock.
Old 10-26-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
I have a set of rear speakers, but literally anything you buy will be better than stock.
Interested to hear more. I thought I remembered reading in an old thread, that you couldn't throw just any replacement sub in. Thought you needed a replacement amp as well.
Old 10-26-2013, 03:10 PM
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Do most standard 6.5 or 6.75" speakers fit the doors without modification or baffles?
Old 10-26-2013, 03:13 PM
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This one says 5.25"
Old 10-26-2013, 03:23 PM
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My bad, I assumed we were talking about the sub.
Old 10-26-2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MN_V
Do most standard 6.5 or 6.75" speakers fit the doors without modification or baffles?
If you're asking the question, I should probably start at ground zero.

There are eight 2 ohm speakers. There's one
unusual center channel speaker unusual center channel speaker
that I've been unable to find a replacement for, two 1" tweeters in the A-pillars, two 6.5" speakers in the front doors, two 5.25" speakers in the rear doors, and the most pathetic 10" subwoofer I've ever seen. You can run any speakers you want--however, keep in mind that 4 ohm+ speakers will not be as loud for a given volume setting. Given the fact that the Bose amplifier is miserably underpowered, you'd be well-advised to run your speakers through a signal integrator.

The deepest 10" subwoofer that'll fit in the hole in the rear deck is the Infinity 1062w. The front door speakers are the easiest to replace. The rear 5.25" speakers can be replaced with 6.5" speakers, but you'll have to modify the door. I would not advise simply running a LOC (line-out converter) into a monoblock amplifier for the subwoofer because the signal will be delayed enough to be noticeable. That's where something like the JBL MS-8 comes into play. FWIW, I recommend the Hertz ESK 165L.5 for the front and the rear.
Old 10-26-2013, 05:38 PM
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If your exhaust sounds good who need a radio anyway 😁
Old 10-26-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
If you're asking the question, I should probably start at ground zero.

There are eight 2 ohm speakers. There's one unusual center channel speaker that I've been unable to find a replacement for, two 1" tweeters in the A-pillars, two 6.5" speakers in the front doors, two 5.25" speakers in the rear doors, and the most pathetic 10" subwoofer I've ever seen. You can run any speakers you want--however, keep in mind that 4 ohm+ speakers will not be as loud for a given volume setting. Given the fact that the Bose amplifier is miserably underpowered, you'd be well-advised to run your speakers through a signal integrator.

The deepest 10" subwoofer that'll fit in the hole in the rear deck is the Infinity 1062w. The front door speakers are the easiest to replace. The rear 5.25" speakers can be replaced with 6.5" speakers, but you'll have to modify the door. I would not advise simply running a LOC (line-out converter) into a monoblock amplifier for the subwoofer because the signal will be delayed enough to be noticeable. That's where something like the JBL MS-8 comes into play. FWIW, I recommend the Hertz ESK 165L.5 for the front and the rear.
Thanks Ryan. I was aware of all that except the rear door speaker size which I hadn't checked on yet. I would just stick with 5.25 that is just fine for rear fill. When I replace I'll probably get some JBL or Infinity speakers as they offer 2ohm. Someone out there in a thread once said they replaced the center speaker with a 2" peerless model (partsdirect.com perhaps for the source?).

The factory sub I took out with my 15" sub install but I later put it back in because I was having some weird cancellation issues up front with the sub facing backwards and the hole above it and the sound waves reflecting off the rear trunk. Common issues... put the factory sub back in and it fixed it, better spl and response. The magnet on the factory sub is about the size of a quarter it is a joke. LOC works fine for my JBL BP1200.1 mono amp.

Also, every bose tweeter I've seen before has been a 1/2" plastic piece of junk, but I haven't looked at this one. I would highly doubt it is a 1" but I could be wrong. Again thanks for the info, one last question...

Those of you who have installed components and using the stock bose amp... did you use the existing bose crossover (I know its probably built into the amp) or did you use the crossover that came with your components? Anybody buy some components that the tweeter fits in the stock location? The Infinity Kappas I installed in last car were massive... had to flush mount in door.

Here's my current Image Dynamics sub. Unfortunately I am probably pulling it soon as I have a second kid due in April and might have to fit a double stroller in here. I have a shallow mount 8" Pioneer sub and box coming that I am going to try out. Downfiring .15cf box... box is only 5" tall including feet.

Old 10-26-2013, 06:35 PM
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Fuzzy, PM sent.


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