moderate Z28

Here's the story. Car has always ran fine since I've had it (8+ years). Drove it as usual one day, parked it, everything was fine. Got in it about a month/month and a half later (its not a daily driver) and it will not start but fuel pump runs, usual dings, just the starter isn't turning or even trying to. So I checked all fuses/relays. All are fine. Try shorting the starter and it starts that way and it runs, but runs terrible!! It is very hard to keep running (we couldn't keep it running), and continually backfires. Flames shot through the intake. I have done nothing to this car the whole time it sat, so this is weird/very unfortunate. I'm wondering if the VATS system is the culprit? Or is there something on the car that would make it run that bad and not start at the key? I'll be pissed if it actually has 2 totally different problems just from sitting for a month. Thanks!

BTW, its the 93 T/A in my sig.

moderate Z28

It will actually idle fairly good if I spray starting fluid in it but only until it runs out. Gave it some gas one time and saw the biggest flame ever out of the intake. Actually caught a few pieces of grass on fire that were siting on the radiator cover!

saltwaterreefguy

iTrader: (1)

check fuel pressure sounds like the fuel pump to me. It may still prime but the pressure you need to the rail its not getting. just my $0.02

moderate Z28

I don't have a gauge but when I depressed the needle gas shot out all over like it had very good pressure.

saltwaterreefguy

iTrader: (1)

Does the security light flash?

There could still be fuel in the rail. Just not enough pressure.

moderate Z28

Security light doesn't even light up. I may have removed that bulb years ago. I've had this car about 9 years and its always ran great. I'm having a hard time believing that these 2 problems are completely separate since the car ran fine when I parked it. That would be some **** luck.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Its not the vats, the car will start and run for about 2 seconds if so. Have you checked your ground and hot wires/cables to your starter for the no start, your opti could of got moisture in it from sitting..

moderate Z28

Havent checked the grounds yet. The car stays in a nice garage. Never outside. I also just noticed that the backup lights now illuminate when in neutral. It never did that before. I don't think that has anything to do with it though, just got out of adjustment. I have tried to start it in any gear, and moving the steering wheel up and down.

moderate Z28

OK so far I have checked the neutral switch (bypassed it, still no start), crank fuse has 12 volts while cranking, and took the gauge cluster out to check the security bulb. I tried 2 different cluster bulbs for the security light, one I KNOW works because seconds before it was the air bag light and I saw it working. Security light NEVER comes on, not even when your first turn the key. What would cause that? I'm pretty sure it was coming on before, like normal (light up for a few seconds and turn off). I know for a fact the security light is supposed to come on when you turn the key, and then go off after a few seconds. This is weird. My 95 T/A is right next to this one, so I might try its complete gauge cluster and see if it works.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Fire out of the intake is more than likely a timing issue. Fuel is being ignited while an intake valve is still open. Are you absolutely sure all plug wires are on their proper plugs? That is the easiest place to start. Could also be the rotor screws in the opti are loose.

moderate Z28

The car ran perfect when I parked it, and always ran perfect for the last 8 years or so Ive had it. Unless someone broke into the garage and swapped my wires around, they haven't been touched in years so that's very very unlikely. I was thinking the opti came loose. If so, can I fix it or do you have to buy a new one?

This security light deal has me puzzled?! Im going to swap in the complete gauge assembly from my 95 T/A into this one tonight and see if the security light still doesn't come on. before I can diagnose why its not running right, I need to atleast be able to start it from the key. This is just weird. 2 major problems all at once. What are the chances. Its hard for me to believe they couldn't be related.

moderate Z28

GOT IT TO START! but not run yet. Atleast I can start it by the key now. Guess what it was? It was the theft deterrent relay. I guess the chip in my key went bad or something. I bypassed the relay and she started and ran good for 3 seconds and died. Wouldn't start anymore. Must be the injectors getting shut down. Im going to buy the bypass box so the injector receive the signal. Anyone know exactly where the fuel enable wire is and the best place to wire in the VATS bypass box?

Tom94TA

I'm pretty sure Rob (shbox) has a good write-up on bypassing VATS. I think you just need to wire in a resistor that matches the resistance of your key.

Alternately, I also have a hotcam tuned by the Madtuner. Twice this summer on a cold engine it started and ran poorly and died right away, it wouldn't restart until I floored it while cranking (clear flood mode), then all was normal.

moderate Z28

That doesn't cure the injector side of the equation though. The injectors need a 30hz signal to work properly.

Ive had the tune for about 5 years. Never had a problem although I think it would run a little better with a dyno tune.

moderate Z28

VATS bypass came in, and it runs great now. 93 Trans Am uses 50HZ to the injectors.