cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I have a little different build for you guys to ponder.

I'm building a first gen nova that will be a fun street car/road track car.

I'm going be using an LQ4 with a built T56 trans, rear end gear is TBD. Car will weight at least 3K.

I'd like to keep the LQ4 fairly junkyard and toss some smaller twins on it. My hp goal for this junkyard build is 600ish but I want good/predicable spool times.

I'm not looking to rev the nuts off this motor, factory redline or close to I can retain. I figure this would let me run smaller turbos without fear of massive BP. I'm hoping this also increases the life span.

I'm wondering what turbo specs should I be on the lookout for? Are any of the china turbos adequate?

Let me know! Thanks.

BMF_Racing

iTrader: (6)

If your not totally sold on twins, I've used the below turbo on a stock long block 6.0 (stock cam). It worked very well, fast spool up and pulled hard to 6000rpm. For a non-max effort setup it worked very well & its a very durable unit and cheap.


Borg Warner AirWerk Units

S400SX Performance unit

S400SX-75 ETT*
HP -- 1050
Turbine Housing/Wheel -- 1.10 83mm
Flange Type -- T6 and T4
Price -- $649

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I meant to add, I'm not sold on twins. I like the look and ease of plumbing. A single is just fine.

My biggest concern is being manual and not having a converter to help "flash" and make boost.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I run the suggested turbo above and agree it would make a great choice. The turbine wheel on that unit is an 83/74 though.

If your only looking for 600 HP your biggest aid in "spool-up" will be your hotside sizing. OEM cast manifolds and 1 7/8" crossover/hotside piping would light that turbo off almost instantly and is more than enough diameter to support 600hp.

Worst thing you could do is slap some 2.5-3" hotside piping on it.

IMHO if your road racing, I'd be looking into alum 5.3's (L33 VIN option "B") You can pick them up (Ebay) delivered cheaper than a 6.0 and they will make 600hp with a good sized fart down the intake.

Even a 4.8 would also work well with the slower piston speeds and larger RPM range.

Good luck!

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I would agree with you on the 5.3 but later down the road I'm hoping to keep a smallerish turbo(s) and build a 6.0 into a 6.2 with great air flow for much more power. I know that with 750+ hp from the get go I'll spend more time with learning and tuning the engine then I will the car and I'm trying to stay away from that.

I almost want to stay n/a until I'm happy with the car then build power but I want more fun on the street from the get-go. Hence why I'd like to stay small and simple with a junkyard build...and build it all up later.

I'm more or less just tossing the car together, spray painting over bare metal. Once I get everything dialed and shaken down I'll blow it apart, blast the car, paint it up, build the engine...ect.

This original turbo kit(whatever it may be) will probably find its way on my '49 chevy truck with an ls1/t56. So it's not like I'm building something to throw it away later.

I appreciate yalls input! Thanks.

mrstepheneades

I have this turbo on mine only I have the 96mm turbine and 1.32a/r. BEST BANG FOR YOUR MONEY HANDS DOWN. Mines making 755rwhp through t56 and still got more left in the turbo before its maxed.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

awesome.

I think I'd rather keep the smaller turbine for spool time...even if it limits RPM/HP.

what are you rev'ing to?

do you have any dyno charts besides in your vid?

hows that innercooler working for you? I like the prices on those....

Thanks man!

mrstepheneades

I rev to 6600rpm even though the 755rwhp number was a below 6000rpm pull. Smaller turbine would definitely hope spool time compared to mine. Intercooler works great for my power level. My iats are super low and I don't even have any of my piping wrapped cause I like the look of clean stainless.


This is the graph from that pull. Wanting to go back and do a 20 psi pull.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

awesome.

who is a good source for these turbos?

what is the quality/grade of the aluminum on that intercooler? If you had to weld on it...?

kjm

Where are you located. I'm in Thibodaux area about 40 minutes from No Problem Raceway. I may be able to help you out with your build. I have a 1957 with ly6 and twin 76mm turbos. May be able to give you a hand with finding parts
Kerry

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I'm originally from St Charles parish but right now I'm out in Houston for work. Moving back home in a few years is the plan... But this car will be on the road before then.

I certainly appreciate any help.

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

Id recommend a BW single, they are great units. The turbo mentioned by BMF Racing in post #2 will spool virtually instantly with a stock or very mild cam 6.0/ stickshift combo. keep the hotside fairly small as suggested and your in business.

BMF_Racing

iTrader: (6)

I get them From Forced Inductions, best prices I could find.

http://www.forcedinductions.com/productsborgwarner.htm

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

man you guys are on your game!

I really appreciate all the help.

As far as cam I was thinking z06 as I have one in the garage or maybe a smaller n/a cam.

I'd love to get some lope in it but I understand overlap on boosted engines doesn't work so well.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

You really should give a few things more serious thought with building a road race oriented car.

Weight. Go with an aluminum block. You're making the car very nose heavy already with a turbo or two, and you're gonna be putting an extra 80 lbs on the nose with an iron block over aluminum.

Heat. More boost = more heat. The more air you compress and push the more heat you're gonna generate everywhere under the hood and every component will be effected. Run excessive coolers on everything you can

Power. I've heard from several folks that road racing anything with more than 550rwhp being a novice driver is asking for trouble/frustration. I don't know how good of a driver you are, but if you're not a pro, you may not need as much power as you're thinking. I guess you could always run a smaller spring and go off of it and control it up higher for more power situations.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I appreciate you concern. I wouldn't jump as far to assume that these factors haven't been considered.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

For headers...

I was going to run the OBX up and forward, but they may be too big?

I know for a fact that a stock manifold will hit the steering shaft, so I was looking at going tubular so I can move a tube or two to make it all work.

What yall think?

BMF_Racing

iTrader: (6)

I'd find a way to make the manifolds work. Turbo headers are usually too big, and will hurt spool up. Have you considered a hotside layout like the stock Grand Nationals had? (Drivers side truck manifold in OEM position w/Vband welded on the end at appropriate angle. Then crossover pipe down under oilpan/converter area and over and back up pass side to merge with a flipped and forward pass manifold then merged to a T6) This is how I did it and fit great. See pics in the below link (post# 13). I used 2.5" but 2" or 1.875" would be good for your setup.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...uild-swap.html


Just a thought.

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

What kind of car is it going in?
Edit: sorry just re read that it's a first gen nova. There should be lots of room for forward and down truck manifolds

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I see what yall are saying.

I guess time will tell.

I can probably notch the manifold if need be, or heat and dent it.

I have much of my car modeled in CAD, so I can check interference before I get out in the garage.

stupid question and I should know the answer as I've done several LS swaps, is the bolt pattern on LS heads all the same from engine to engine(ie ls1 to lq4) and symmetrical front to back and top to bottom? I know the ports change but the bolt locations...?