flex-piping for Charge pipe?
#1
flex-piping for Charge pipe?
Is it safe to use some of that "flex bendable exhaust" that you can buy from oreillys or autozone for a section of cold piping? Im working with very little space so I might have to resort to it. 75% of my charge piping is 2.5" 12 gauge mild steel ran along the rocker panel.
My truck is slammed also so "aint nobody got time for aluminum" lol
My truck is slammed also so "aint nobody got time for aluminum" lol
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah that's what I used. worked good for awhile. It did start distorting though. That's when I started learning how to tig weld haha!. But it was a good learning experience.
#5
TECH Resident
Yeah, it will distort a little over time if it's not supported every few feet, but the material is so light it can be supported with zip ties almost. lol Okay, that may be a stretch. haha It's also good for mocking up your setup. AND IT'S CHEAP!
I used this for charge pipe once (Super rigid stuff):
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23953-1814-A...7C1&facetInfo=
Worked great! You have to heat the bends slow, or else you get a little wrinkle. I painted it and everyone was shocked to hear what it was afterwards. Looked like mild steel after painted (hammertone), lol. No leaks either! Great stuff.
I used this for charge pipe once (Super rigid stuff):
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23953-1814-A...7C1&facetInfo=
Worked great! You have to heat the bends slow, or else you get a little wrinkle. I painted it and everyone was shocked to hear what it was afterwards. Looked like mild steel after painted (hammertone), lol. No leaks either! Great stuff.
Trending Topics
#9
I really have no other alternative... I plan on using this section of mild steel recessed under the rocker panel. If the exhaust guy can can get about a 90* degree bend OVER the rear frame (underneath the bed) to the compressor housing ill do that. But as you can see I really have NO room. The only other rational plan of attack is cutting out some of the floor where the kick panel is... for the rear I plan on mounting it like the last pic , see how the charge pipe swings over the frame right near the first leaf spring bolt
#10
TECH Resident
#14
TECH Resident
That sucks! PVC is good to 120-300 psi, depending on what you get. But keep it away from any exhaust. I had my section go from my intercooler to TB. Held fine.
Gotta do whatcha gotta dooooo...
Gotta do whatcha gotta dooooo...
#16
TECH Resident
Hahaha... Damn... sorry for laughing. Hey, you tried, right? lol
So that bursts under pressure, apparently... and the metal one leaks under pressure...
Looks like either custom bent mild steel, or PVC, OR a combination of the 2. Maybe run PVC from the turbo to the part where it needs to angle up into the engine compartment, connect with a silicone connector, straight metal pipe past the headers (Wrapped with header wrap of course, otherwise you're heating your charge pipe), then finish with PVC in areas not so heat sensitive.
So that bursts under pressure, apparently... and the metal one leaks under pressure...
Looks like either custom bent mild steel, or PVC, OR a combination of the 2. Maybe run PVC from the turbo to the part where it needs to angle up into the engine compartment, connect with a silicone connector, straight metal pipe past the headers (Wrapped with header wrap of course, otherwise you're heating your charge pipe), then finish with PVC in areas not so heat sensitive.
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Hahaha... Damn... sorry for laughing. Hey, you tried, right? lol
So that bursts under pressure, apparently... and the metal one leaks under pressure...
Looks like either custom bent mild steel, or PVC, OR a combination of the 2. Maybe run PVC from the turbo to the part where it needs to angle up into the engine compartment, connect with a silicone connector, straight metal pipe past the headers (Wrapped with header wrap of course, otherwise you're heating your charge pipe), then finish with PVC in areas not so heat sensitive.
So that bursts under pressure, apparently... and the metal one leaks under pressure...
Looks like either custom bent mild steel, or PVC, OR a combination of the 2. Maybe run PVC from the turbo to the part where it needs to angle up into the engine compartment, connect with a silicone connector, straight metal pipe past the headers (Wrapped with header wrap of course, otherwise you're heating your charge pipe), then finish with PVC in areas not so heat sensitive.