Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

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Old 11-03-2013, 09:41 PM
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Rear cradle and trailing arm bushings are done, so is the wheel speed sensor. Car goes back to the shop next weekend to grind off the tack welds on the shift linkage pivot point hoping it cure's my shifter binding issue. Sometimes modding a car bites you in the ***. I don't want to make it a race car, just drive a little less like a wet dish rag.
Old 11-03-2013, 10:32 PM
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Thats stinky.

Dont feel to bad I just spent a whole bunch of money getting my cam parts together and realized the dif may be a bit worse than I thought
Old 11-04-2013, 08:46 AM
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as far as shifter bind ill add this. when you disconnect the shifter from the linkage arm..if you tighten that bolt justba little too much it'll cause it to bind. ive found if you just snug it up it leaves the shifter free to the movement
Old 11-04-2013, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by punishmentcycle
as far as shifter bind ill add this. when you disconnect the shifter from the linkage arm..if you tighten that bolt justba little too much it'll cause it to bind. ive found if you just snug it up it leaves the shifter free to the movement
Wish it was an easy one. Pulled the linkage off the shifter, still binds.
Old 11-09-2013, 10:16 PM
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Car back on the lift today. Exhaust and driveshaft came off, removed the trans support, and tipped the trans back to access the linkage assembly. The original plan was t grind off the tac weld on the linkage pivot pin, but today we realized the weld was not causing the bind. Over the last two weeks, movement left from neutral to 1/2 has loosened up a bit, but right to 5/6 is still tight with no self return. Funny thing, after putting it all back together, it's a bit looser. Shifter will return to neutral from 1/2 n it's own now. 5/6 still requires light pressure to snap back to center. I'm convinced it must be the brass cup installed in the trans at the selector. Hoping the brass will continue t wear and free up. Not sure why a partial disassembly and reinstall today helped, but I'll take the small victory.

Next project: avoid rebuilding reverse syncro by trying something else first, again. Think I might try pulling the RevShift trans insert to see what the change in geometry does. Costs less than a trip to the trans shop.
Old 11-09-2013, 11:27 PM
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You do realize that there's a shift detent assembly that gives you that "return to center" action, right? If the spring crapped out on you, or someone loosened it (or installed the anti-venom mod), it won't return to center as it was intended to.
Old 11-10-2013, 08:47 AM
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Mine has had the same issue for about a year. I didn't mess with it the last time I had the trans out. I'm sure I will the next time. It's more an annoyance than anything functional at this point still.
Old 11-10-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 07CTS-V
Mine has had the same issue for about a year. I didn't mess with it the last time I had the trans out. I'm sure I will the next time. It's more an annoyance than anything functional at this point still.
Is yours difficult to return to center, or just a lack of spring tension in that direction? My assembly was definitely binding. The spring tension was there, but friction com something was counteracting it.
Old 11-10-2013, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
You do realize that there's a shift detent assembly that gives you that "return to center" action, right? If the spring crapped out on you, or someone loosened it (or installed the anti-venom mod), it won't return to center as it was intended to.
Yep, I know about the shift detent, worked fine prior to linkage modifications, no venom mod in place. Spring still working as shifter now returns to center from 1st and 2nd.
Old 05-21-2014, 10:28 PM
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Just wanted to update this thread. The cause of my shifter bind was the T56 isolator cup I purchased from The Gearbox. While my trans was out for a reverse syncro update, my builder replaced the cup with a plastic OEM piece. He said the bronze cup was way too tight and he had d hard time even getting it off. In my current build thread, another member chimed in with an ill-fitting cup also purchased from The Gearbox, same symptoms. He replaced his with a cup from Tick which cured his binding and fit better.
Old 05-22-2014, 07:38 AM
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Thanks for the update!

Is the part from tick also bronze?
Old 05-22-2014, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1247
Is the part from tick also bronze?
i believe so. Definitely not plastic.
Old 05-22-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Fweasel
Just wanted to update this thread. The cause of my shifter bind was the T56 isolator cup I purchased from The Gearbox. While my trans was out for a reverse syncro update, my builder replaced the cup with a plastic OEM piece. He said the bronze cup was way too tight and he had d hard time even getting it off. In my current build thread, another member chimed in with an ill-fitting cup also purchased from The Gearbox, same symptoms. He replaced his with a cup from Tick which cured his binding and fit better.
Interesting. Was this issue (binding) apparent immediately after the install of the bronze shifter cup or did it take a while until binding occurred? I've had mine in for quite a while with no issues. I know the bronze can take some time to "wear-in" as is often tight at first.
Old 05-22-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Onefast V
Interesting. Was this issue (binding) apparent immediately after the install of the bronze shifter cup or did it take a while until binding occurred? I've had mine in for quite a while with no issues. I know the bronze can take some time to "wear-in" as is often tight at first.
Immediate. The cup had to be tapped onto the shift selector with a mallet and had no rocking motion once in place. After everything was back together, the shifter had to be pulled back to neutral left/right manually, there was no spring action. After about a month, I gained a little spring action from 1/2 to neutral, but 5/6/r was still binding. Just prior to swapping the plactic OEM cup back in, 1/2 almost felt normal to me, and if it was warm enough outside, 5/6/R had some spring to it. After the cup was pulled, what I thought was normal for 1/2 wasn't even close. The shifter slaps side to side effortlessly and snaps right back to neutral on its own. The Gearbox isolator cup did wear in a little, but was still ill-fitting and difficult to remove and not a part I recommend.
Old 05-27-2014, 08:22 AM
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I Had to hone my bronze shifter cup to get it to fit right with out binding

I just put a small metal rod in a drill and wrapped it with some red scotch bright and went to town



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