Things to do first before adding power?
11-07-2013, 08:19 PM
#1
Things to do first before adding power? So in the past few months I've owned my car, I've spent it fixing little things, upgrading the sound system and making sure it's running 100%. Now I want to start adding power. I'm saving up for my first big purchase, a full blown Kooks True Duals exhaust system. But before I start building my motor, are there any supporting mods I should so first? All I have done so far performance-wise is a lid. Rear end, clutch, and internals are all stock. I plan on eventually making 450-500rwhp all motor.
So should I spend my money now on upgrading drive train components or just go with bolt on power? Plan on mostly doing autocross and road racing, maybe hitting the strip a couple of times just to see what I run.
So should I spend my money now on upgrading drive train components or just go with bolt on power? Plan on mostly doing autocross and road racing, maybe hitting the strip a couple of times just to see what I run.
11-08-2013, 12:05 AM
#3
For your rr/ax goals I would suggest getting a set of Konis and Stranos to start, then adding better sway bars, Watts link, decoupled torque arm, etc., plus a set of nice wide wheels and R compounds. Stay with the 10 bolt rear for rr/ax; it'll save you weight, money, and time. Do a Tick master. If you're serious about it, Turn One PS pump, oil cooler, and a real power steering cooler too. Then while you're in the engine changing stuff up to make power, don't forget a ported LS6 oil pump, improved windage tray and/or oil pan, and the usual pushrods/springs/rockers. Then do some V brakes.
With all that you should have a really solid foundation to make lots of power with.
As for which one you should do first... that's up to you
if you're ready to start HPDEs and autocrosses right now, do the suspension & brake work first. I would probably do shocks and springs first either way, then maybe cam, valvetrain, and oiling, then the more in depth suspension bits, then on to more power.
With all that you should have a really solid foundation to make lots of power with.
As for which one you should do first... that's up to you
if you're ready to start HPDEs and autocrosses right now, do the suspension & brake work first. I would probably do shocks and springs first either way, then maybe cam, valvetrain, and oiling, then the more in depth suspension bits, then on to more power. Last edited by fruitsalad; 11-08-2013 at 12:11 AM.
11-08-2013, 12:12 PM
#4
For your rr/ax goals I would suggest getting a set of Konis and Stranos to start, then adding better sway bars, Watts link, decoupled torque arm, etc., plus a set of nice wide wheels and R compounds. Stay with the 10 bolt rear for rr/ax; it'll save you weight, money, and time. Do a Tick master. If you're serious about it, Turn One PS pump, oil cooler, and a real power steering cooler too. Then while you're in the engine changing stuff up to make power, don't forget a ported LS6 oil pump, improved windage tray and/or oil pan, and the usual pushrods/springs/rockers. Then do some V brakes.
With all that you should have a really solid foundation to make lots of power with.
As for which one you should do first... that's up to you if you're ready to start HPDEs and autocrosses right now, do the suspension & brake work first. I would probably do shocks and springs first either way, then maybe cam, valvetrain, and oiling, then the more in depth suspension bits, then on to more power.
With all that you should have a really solid foundation to make lots of power with.
As for which one you should do first... that's up to you
if you're ready to start HPDEs and autocrosses right now, do the suspension & brake work first. I would probably do shocks and springs first either way, then maybe cam, valvetrain, and oiling, then the more in depth suspension bits, then on to more power.
11-08-2013, 08:58 PM
#5
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11-08-2013, 09:25 PM
#6
Do shocks / springs / sways before any other suspension on your car. Those are the most important components to a well handling car. Plan for a clutch...450rwhp on the stock clutch is definitely not the norm...mine was useless with 420rwhp. Spend the extra $100 and go with a monster or TDP clutch. An LS7 is a waste of money IMO. At that power level a new rear can usually wait if yours is healthy.
11-08-2013, 09:30 PM
#7
Do shocks / springs / sways before any other suspension on your car. Those are the most important components to a well handling car. Plan for a clutch...450rwhp on the stock clutch is definitely not the norm...mine was useless with 420rwhp. Spend the extra $100 and go with a monster or TDP clutch. An LS7 is a waste of money IMO. At that power level a new rear can usually wait if yours is healthy.
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11-09-2013, 12:30 AM
#8
Almost 100% positive that you can run a watts with Kooks TDs. As for clutch, obviously you're going to want a new one without the self adjusting pressure plate, but for now at your power level I wouldn't say it's the weak point yet. Just prepare for it some time in the future.
11-09-2013, 10:10 AM
#9
I can't believe a stock clutch is holding at 450. I smoked the HELL out of mine on the dyno when I hit 451. Yeah it drove, but I was missing a lot of topend. I didn't find THAT out until I put in the monster. I was missing a lot of power I didn't even realize.
When that clutch DOES come out, I'd really like to see pics of it.
When that clutch DOES come out, I'd really like to see pics of it.
11-09-2013, 10:27 AM
#10
I would do this (order from Sam Strano):
Strano Performanace SP141 Lowering Springs
Strano Performance 35/22mm Hollow Sway Bars
Koni 4/4 Sport Shocks
Best Brakes Signature Series Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
Techna-fit Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
About $2100 shipped to you. I wouldn't worry with the other stuff. That's more for drag racing and might hurt your handling. Eventually the Watts link is what you'll want and it should work with the Kooks. It's $650 from Strano.
I'd keep the stock 10-bolt. I wouldn't even mess with the gears yet.
Get a cam that makes power under the curve and works with stock gears. Tick SNS Stage 2 227/234 111+2 with Mild lobes for example would work. I'd also just send the stock heads off to be ported by AI or TEA. No need to try for 500rwhp. That won't make you faster in AX/RR. Just get the power up some. Work on building a lightweight valvetrain that will handle 4000+RPM. It's a different then a drag build. Easy lobes, bigger pushrods, and lightweight valves = key.
I'd get a new clutch with lighter flywheel. Monster Stage 1 + 18lbs Aluminum Flywheel. Weight is your enemy here. Or you can spend some big money on an RPS Dual Carbon Lite clutch. It's like 32lbs total. And inertia is much smaller, since the discs are much smaller on a dual disc clutch.
Strano Performanace SP141 Lowering Springs
Strano Performance 35/22mm Hollow Sway Bars
Koni 4/4 Sport Shocks
Best Brakes Signature Series Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
Techna-fit Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
About $2100 shipped to you. I wouldn't worry with the other stuff. That's more for drag racing and might hurt your handling. Eventually the Watts link is what you'll want and it should work with the Kooks. It's $650 from Strano.
I'd keep the stock 10-bolt. I wouldn't even mess with the gears yet.
Get a cam that makes power under the curve and works with stock gears. Tick SNS Stage 2 227/234 111+2 with Mild lobes for example would work. I'd also just send the stock heads off to be ported by AI or TEA. No need to try for 500rwhp. That won't make you faster in AX/RR. Just get the power up some. Work on building a lightweight valvetrain that will handle 4000+RPM. It's a different then a drag build. Easy lobes, bigger pushrods, and lightweight valves = key.
I'd get a new clutch with lighter flywheel. Monster Stage 1 + 18lbs Aluminum Flywheel. Weight is your enemy here. Or you can spend some big money on an RPS Dual Carbon Lite clutch. It's like 32lbs total. And inertia is much smaller, since the discs are much smaller on a dual disc clutch.
11-09-2013, 09:06 PM
#11
Stock clutch will suffice for now if u know how to drive and are careful. May upgrade to a tick master which would help a lot. I'm still running my stock clutch and 10 bolt on 450 whp. I just make sure I hit the gears solid and don't slip it. Going on 4 years now
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I would do this (order from Sam Strano):
Strano Performanace SP141 Lowering Springs
Strano Performance 35/22mm Hollow Sway Bars
Koni 4/4 Sport Shocks
Best Brakes Signature Series Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
Techna-fit Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
About $2100 shipped to you. I wouldn't worry with the other stuff. That's more for drag racing and might hurt your handling. Eventually the Watts link is what you'll want and it should work with the Kooks. It's $650 from Strano.
I'd keep the stock 10-bolt. I wouldn't even mess with the gears yet.
Get a cam that makes power under the curve and works with stock gears. Tick SNS Stage 2 227/234 111+2 with Mild lobes for example would work. I'd also just send the stock heads off to be ported by AI or TEA. No need to try for 500rwhp. That won't make you faster in AX/RR. Just get the power up some. Work on building a lightweight valvetrain that will handle 4000+RPM. It's a different then a drag build. Easy lobes, bigger pushrods, and lightweight valves = key.
I'd get a new clutch with lighter flywheel. Monster Stage 1 + 18lbs Aluminum Flywheel. Weight is your enemy here. Or you can spend some big money on an RPS Dual Carbon Lite clutch. It's like 32lbs total. And inertia is much smaller, since the discs are much smaller on a dual disc clutch.
Strano Performanace SP141 Lowering Springs
Strano Performance 35/22mm Hollow Sway Bars
Koni 4/4 Sport Shocks
Best Brakes Signature Series Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
Techna-fit Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
About $2100 shipped to you. I wouldn't worry with the other stuff. That's more for drag racing and might hurt your handling. Eventually the Watts link is what you'll want and it should work with the Kooks. It's $650 from Strano.
I'd keep the stock 10-bolt. I wouldn't even mess with the gears yet.
Get a cam that makes power under the curve and works with stock gears. Tick SNS Stage 2 227/234 111+2 with Mild lobes for example would work. I'd also just send the stock heads off to be ported by AI or TEA. No need to try for 500rwhp. That won't make you faster in AX/RR. Just get the power up some. Work on building a lightweight valvetrain that will handle 4000+RPM. It's a different then a drag build. Easy lobes, bigger pushrods, and lightweight valves = key.
I'd get a new clutch with lighter flywheel. Monster Stage 1 + 18lbs Aluminum Flywheel. Weight is your enemy here. Or you can spend some big money on an RPS Dual Carbon Lite clutch. It's like 32lbs total. And inertia is much smaller, since the discs are much smaller on a dual disc clutch.
As for weight reduction, I'd like to get down to at least 3200ish with me in it(160lbs). Is that possible without tearing out the interior and keeping daily drivability?
11-14-2013, 10:15 AM
#12
I can't believe a stock clutch is holding at 450. I smoked the HELL out of mine on the dyno when I hit 451. Yeah it drove, but I was missing a lot of topend. I didn't find THAT out until I put in the monster. I was missing a lot of power I didn't even realize.
When that clutch DOES come out, I'd really like to see pics of it.
When that clutch DOES come out, I'd really like to see pics of it.
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