First C7 clutch in a C6!
11-09-2013, 02:08 PM
#1
First C7 clutch in a C6! 
The 6 bolt LT1 conversion flywheels are done. We put one in a C6 and, as you would imagine, the clutch feels just like stock and holds great!
We'll offer these in three packages -
LT1-S - $1,099.99 - Street setup using factory GM discs and our Monster Clutch conversion flywheel. This setup will hold 650 rwhp/rwtq and obviously have factory drivability. There is some very slight gear rollover noise due to the lack of dampened hubs on the disc, upon installation in the test C6 the noise was so minimal we didn't feel the need to change these discs as the torque tube on those cars transmit more noise than any other GM vehicle.
LT1-SC - $1,399.99 - Street/Competition setup uses our dampened ceramic button discs and our Monster Clutch conversion flywheel, the pressure plate and setup on the clutch retains factory components to maintain factory drivability with a more aggressive friction. This setup will hold 1000rwhp/rwtq.
LT1-R - $1,599.99 - Race setup designed for all out performance. It utilizes our sintered iron material and our Monster Clutch conversion flywheel which makes this clutch a stout piece that still keeps factory pedal effort and plate load. This setup will hold 1150 rwhp/rwtq.
If you want to pick up your own clutch from a local GM dealership and just buy the flywheel from us it's going to be $599.99. Each package will contain the GM clutch assembly w/ factory or modified discs (depending on which one you choose), pilot bearing, release bearing (we're applicable), and conversion flywheel. Slave cylinders will be additional.
There are some great features on the LT1 clutches that have really caught our attention. Having a built in pedal stop to keep high rpm pressure plate "float" at bay, nodular iron castings, and a great plate load to bearing load ratio makes this a nice factory clutch! Of course we're not fans of the self adjusting pressure plate, but, they've made some changes to the internals on these that vastly improve the design from the past ones. That said, this is the absolute smoothest twin for your 6 bolt setups, you cannot go wrong.
When we removed/eliminated the dual mass setup from the C7 we were able to reduce the overall weight by 15lbs! The setup now comes in at 53.5 lbs with a billet steel flywheel. If we get enough guys asking about a lighter setup we will offer one, however, the MOI on this is lower than a LS7 so even though the overall weight is pretty close the overall "feel" of the unit is that of a lighter clutch.
Will be installing one in a Gen 5 camaro next week, of course it'll work for the Gen 4 guys as well...
11-12-2013, 11:45 AM
#2
The C7 setup we're offering here is a direct comparison for a McLeod. They both use a factory pressure plate, ours is a GM LT1/C7 twin that self adjusts and theirs is from a V6 Camaro. They both work and will have great pedal effort - the C7 twin has a higher plate load, slightly less bearing load, and more overall surface area. Plus it has the benefit of the improved SAC setup so the GM twin will will have a longer life span. The only reason I mention McLeod is that they've been mentioned in this thread. The other twins on the market use a standard pressure plate to keep bearing load at a minimum for guys looking for a soft/easy pedal - it's just common sense that a factory setup pressure plate will offer that. Now, you look at guys like Quartermaster, RPS, Mantic, and myself; we use billet cover twins and custom pieces internally to allow for what we were designing. We didn't limit ourselves to factory style pressure plates. Because of this our units are slightly more aggressive in some ways and better in others.
Many people in the market for a clutch today want to use factory clutches as they're cheaper and easier to use. The LS7 unit has been over-glorified for a long time. Many on here love it and that is their opinion. I've tested the LS7 unit and it is an inferior piece - this is the reason behind my singles. The C7 twin I've converted to work with the six bolt setups is far superior to the LS7. The SAC part of this unit is by far better, the guys at LUK spent a lot of time and effort improving this design over the last renditions and it shows. There are numerous small things that benefit high rpm release and return like built in pedal stop, "T" rivets that limit travel on the floater, improved spring material, along with a few other things.
We have high performance twins that are more than proven; Ray Bulach just went 8.80 in one of our green billet twins giving us/him the fastest T56 around right now... we can build some crazy clutches. What the C7 twins do is allow us to offer something for the guys that aren't looking for a crazy clutch, that want the added benefits of a factory unit, want to save money, and are wanting an incredibly soft pedal.
If you guys have any other questions just let me know. We'll have one in a 5th gen Camaro tomorrow and have already sold numerous units.
Many people in the market for a clutch today want to use factory clutches as they're cheaper and easier to use. The LS7 unit has been over-glorified for a long time. Many on here love it and that is their opinion. I've tested the LS7 unit and it is an inferior piece - this is the reason behind my singles. The C7 twin I've converted to work with the six bolt setups is far superior to the LS7. The SAC part of this unit is by far better, the guys at LUK spent a lot of time and effort improving this design over the last renditions and it shows. There are numerous small things that benefit high rpm release and return like built in pedal stop, "T" rivets that limit travel on the floater, improved spring material, along with a few other things.
We have high performance twins that are more than proven; Ray Bulach just went 8.80 in one of our green billet twins giving us/him the fastest T56 around right now... we can build some crazy clutches. What the C7 twins do is allow us to offer something for the guys that aren't looking for a crazy clutch, that want the added benefits of a factory unit, want to save money, and are wanting an incredibly soft pedal.
If you guys have any other questions just let me know. We'll have one in a 5th gen Camaro tomorrow and have already sold numerous units.
11-13-2013, 11:10 AM
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Very cool product. I love creative use of OEM components!
Two quick questions:
1. What is the distance from the tip of the clutch spring fingers to the pedal stop?
2. Is the height the same as the LS7 set-up? In other words, is the distance from the flywheel/crank mounting surface to the tip of the spring fingers the same as the LS7 clutch?
I ask this because I have a set-up where having an integral TOB stop would be very helpful.
Andrew
Two quick questions:
1. What is the distance from the tip of the clutch spring fingers to the pedal stop?
2. Is the height the same as the LS7 set-up? In other words, is the distance from the flywheel/crank mounting surface to the tip of the spring fingers the same as the LS7 clutch?
I ask this because I have a set-up where having an integral TOB stop would be very helpful.
Andrew
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11-13-2013, 03:36 PM
#9
Very cool product. I love creative use of OEM components!
Two quick questions:
1. What is the distance from the tip of the clutch spring fingers to the pedal stop?
2. Is the height the same as the LS7 set-up? In other words, is the distance from the flywheel/crank mounting surface to the tip of the spring fingers the same as the LS7 clutch?
I ask this because I have a set-up where having an integral TOB stop would be very helpful.
Andrew
Two quick questions:
1. What is the distance from the tip of the clutch spring fingers to the pedal stop?
2. Is the height the same as the LS7 set-up? In other words, is the distance from the flywheel/crank mounting surface to the tip of the spring fingers the same as the LS7 clutch?
I ask this because I have a set-up where having an integral TOB stop would be very helpful.
Andrew
steve@monsterclutches.com
Yes, to an extent. And yes it will reset the warranty.
11-14-2013, 10:32 PM
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
I am not sure what you are asking.
I currently have a LS7 clutch but I am using it with a Richmond 6speed and Quarter Master hydraulic throw out bearing.
The reason I asked for the distance between the pedal stop and the spring fingers was to see if my current bearing actually has enough travel to fully release the C7 clutch.
Hope that makes sense.
Andrew
11-15-2013, 02:23 PM
#11
Steve,
I am not sure what you are asking.
I currently have a LS7 clutch but I am using it with a Richmond 6speed and Quarter Master hydraulic throw out bearing.
The reason I asked for the distance between the pedal stop and the spring fingers was to see if my current bearing actually has enough travel to fully release the C7 clutch.
Hope that makes sense.
Andrew
I am not sure what you are asking.
I currently have a LS7 clutch but I am using it with a Richmond 6speed and Quarter Master hydraulic throw out bearing.
The reason I asked for the distance between the pedal stop and the spring fingers was to see if my current bearing actually has enough travel to fully release the C7 clutch.
Hope that makes sense.
Andrew
01-02-2014, 03:51 PM
#20
You may want to opt for the lightweight flywheel option if you do a lot of road racing assuming the pic in sig is yoursSame as any of the other LS platforms, how much power are you making?
Will suit you well, thanks again for choosing a Monster!