T56 won't fully mate with block...
#1
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T56 won't fully mate with block...
I'm doing an LS1/T56 swap on my Fox. We finally got the trans in place but it won't completely mate up to the block. Maybe 1/2" between them. Is this typical? Kinda looks like the alignment pegs aren't quite seating. Just keep wiggling it until it goes into place? Any input would help. Thnx
#3
^^^, confirm you have the right size pilot bearing for the input shaft.
also clutch alignment can be off. even if you use the alignment tool that typically comes with a clutch kit. PIA but I have had to losen PP bolts and line it up again. feel.look around the edge of disc/FW & PP as they should all line up without disc being more to one side than other
try rotateing the input shaft shaft some and make sure tranny is going in straight in terms of its distance from bell housing (make sure gap is even all the way around) and lift/lower tranny accordingly
DO NOT pull the tranny in with bolts
also clutch alignment can be off. even if you use the alignment tool that typically comes with a clutch kit. PIA but I have had to losen PP bolts and line it up again. feel.look around the edge of disc/FW & PP as they should all line up without disc being more to one side than other
try rotateing the input shaft shaft some and make sure tranny is going in straight in terms of its distance from bell housing (make sure gap is even all the way around) and lift/lower tranny accordingly
DO NOT pull the tranny in with bolts
#4
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I got the pilot from my local GM dealer. No questions asked. I didn't physically try the bearing on the shaft tho. F-body trans w/ an f-body pilot. How many options on pilot bearings are there for f-bodies? I think alignment is ok. The output turns when when the crank is turned. I've installed several before. Normally if the splines are aligned, they basically fall in place.
#5
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The bearing-shaft fit isn't the issue.
The depth at which the pilot is installed versus the length of the input is the issue.
One pilot fits the large outer recess in the crank, right where a torque converter seats. It looks like this:
If your input length reaches the smaller pilot that goes in the smaller, further-in recess, you're blocked by the larger pilot.
Smaller, farther in pilot:
The depth at which the pilot is installed versus the length of the input is the issue.
One pilot fits the large outer recess in the crank, right where a torque converter seats. It looks like this:
If your input length reaches the smaller pilot that goes in the smaller, further-in recess, you're blocked by the larger pilot.
Smaller, farther in pilot:
#7
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Does a clutch alignment tool slip in with very little wiggle effort?
If no, loosen your PP bolts, wobble the tool up and down, then leave it at about 5/8 up while tightening the bolts.
Then does the alignment tool slip in and out easily? If not, repeat.
Once it does, the trans. should go in, other than the alignment dowels can be snug if corroded.
If no, loosen your PP bolts, wobble the tool up and down, then leave it at about 5/8 up while tightening the bolts.
Then does the alignment tool slip in and out easily? If not, repeat.
Once it does, the trans. should go in, other than the alignment dowels can be snug if corroded.
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#9
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even if the alignment tool slides in easily....alignment can still be off.
Unless you are able to wiggle, lift/push to get the tranny in, you will have to pull it and re-align disc again. been there and dome that so i know it is frustrating.
What I find (have done a few dozen clutch installs) is keeping some pressure "straight" in on alignment tool helps as without it sags and willl allow the disc to be low. When you do it, feel around the entire edge of disc in relationship tp PP edge for equal distance all the way around. tighten a few PP bolts some and feel again to see if it sliped, if OK proceed to tighten all PP bolts to spec in a star pattern
if you feel it is hanging up on dowel pins than take a wire brush or emry cloth and clean up the dowels.
even if the alignment tool slides in easily....alignment can still be off.
Unless you are able to wiggle, lift/push to get the tranny in, you will have to pull it and re-align disc again. been there and dome that so i know it is frustrating.
What I find (have done a few dozen clutch installs) is keeping some pressure "straight" in on alignment tool helps as without it sags and willl allow the disc to be low. When you do it, feel around the entire edge of disc in relationship tp PP edge for equal distance all the way around. tighten a few PP bolts some and feel again to see if it sliped, if OK proceed to tighten all PP bolts to spec in a star pattern
if you feel it is hanging up on dowel pins than take a wire brush or emry cloth and clean up the dowels.
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I'll check that out, ******. Things to think about. I mounted the bell housing first and I'm trying to mount the trans to the bell. Maybe a bad idea. I may pop the bell off and re-mount it to the trans and try installing it together. That's how I've always done it before and never had this issue. I tried it this way due to clearance issues. Thnx