edelbrock 2215 or 2216
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edelbrock 2215 or 2216
Im putting a lm7 5.3 in a 91 s10 with 2700rpm stall, 1 5/8 headers, vic jr intake and holley 750 dual feed, im looking to buy a small cam, wud either of these be agood choice? I was told I cud use ls6 springs with these and use my stock retainers and locks, any input wud be great what kinda gains cud I expect, will be street driven with stock 10 bolt and weight reduction
Thanks
Thanks
#3
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If you want the most out of that converter and a nice aggressive hole shot, the 2215. But if you want to scream some RPM, that little ol 2216 spins my 5.3 to 7200 with ease.
If fuel economy is a concern with low end manners, 2215.
If you want an aggressive idle and pull hard mid range and up top, the 2216.
Either way it will be fun but you will need more converter for the track results with the 2216, but will still go.
If fuel economy is a concern with low end manners, 2215.
If you want an aggressive idle and pull hard mid range and up top, the 2216.
Either way it will be fun but you will need more converter for the track results with the 2216, but will still go.
#6
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All good advice here. A couple things: I think those headers are too small. Get yourself some 1 3/4" primary headers. Also, get some PAC 1218 springs. You will probably do just fine with those LS6 springs, but the PACs are just plain better. A stable valve train is a happy valve train.
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#9
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What is the static compression of your engine? For a well balanced, peppy engine , good dynamic compression is important, but people get away with low comp with longer durations all the time. It just pushes the peak cylinder pressure up higher in the rev range and makes the engine sluggish at the bottom of the rev range.
My LS3 has very high dynamic compression and it has great off idle power and runs very strong to the red line. I have a 406 in a 68 Camaro that I intentionally lowered the dynamic on, with a cam one size up the chart. The reason was to get away with pump gas in an iron headed 11.4 comp engine. That engine is just a tick slow at the very bottom of the rev range, but runs very well and pushes the 68 to 11.30s at 120mph on pump gas.
As far as the headers go, the LS family of engines need plenty of exhaust flow to run to their potential. On my baby cammed LS3 ,Hedman recommended 1 7/8" headers and they do very well on my setup. 1 3/4" would be the minimum I would run, even on a stockish 5.3.
My LS3 has very high dynamic compression and it has great off idle power and runs very strong to the red line. I have a 406 in a 68 Camaro that I intentionally lowered the dynamic on, with a cam one size up the chart. The reason was to get away with pump gas in an iron headed 11.4 comp engine. That engine is just a tick slow at the very bottom of the rev range, but runs very well and pushes the 68 to 11.30s at 120mph on pump gas.
As far as the headers go, the LS family of engines need plenty of exhaust flow to run to their potential. On my baby cammed LS3 ,Hedman recommended 1 7/8" headers and they do very well on my setup. 1 3/4" would be the minimum I would run, even on a stockish 5.3.
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I think ill keep them as of rite now, think im gonna pic up a ford 8.8 Thursday, the conventional ol trac loc with 3.73s and disc brakes for 200 ducks but I gotta drive a good bit, what wud I gain by switchin to 2inch brp headers?
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main reason I don't wanna change them is 1) I got them and I still have a lot to buy and 2) idk if I wanna dedicated nitrous in the future or do a massive turbo, why spend 600-800 on headers if im only gonna use them 1 year
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and has ne body had troubles with there trans hitting in the trans tunnel in there s10 swaps, my driveline angle is way negative and I fear if I raise the trans to fix it that itll be hitting the tunnel, any ideas?
#14
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Cut the tunnel and get the angles right, or rotate the rear diff angle up to get the trans and diff center lines parallel and hope for 3.5* or less working angles. I had to do that with my 72, so the angles are bass ackwards with the trans angle down and the diff angle up, but I have 2.5* working angles and its vibration free to 120mph+ and 7000rpms.
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I think if I do it im gonna do a 2216, iv already got the trans and engine in, wud it be just as easy cutting the tunnel with em in? Ill be doin all the work inside the cab, anyone got ne tips?
#19
Folding the lip that hangs down at the trans tunnel with a big hammer usually fixes any clearance problems. If your using shorty headers your going to need to hammer the PS footwell real good where the collector will be. Pre 1988 trucks usually need this more than the 1988 -up due to the 4.3 option and mild redesign. If you are using a non factory S10 trans you will likely need to cut the ears off the side for header clearance.
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Iv been reading a lot of stuff, and a bunch of places said the motor itself should have a 3 to 5 degree angle and they designed it like that out of the factory, and they said the carb pad offsets this angle to make the carb level, is this true?