V6 - V8 3.8 Ls1 fuel line fixes
11-22-2013, 11:01 AM
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V6 - V8 3.8 Ls1 fuel line fixes I get a lot of questions about how to get the v6 return system to work with the v8 return less fuel system. So here is what I did. Feel free to comment if you found other ways, as I'm positive there are more.
I started out with buying a complete v8 fuel pump/bucket assembly. I bought a new Delphi unit. The reason I swapped the whole bucket instead of using a Walbro or similar, is for the in tank regulator that is not on the v6 bucket.
I have personally done both the trap door, and dropped the tank. Neither are to hard. The tank comes out with the removal of the rear shock bolts, pan-hard support brace, a few connections, the filler neck bolts and cap covers, and the straps. The hard part is getting it back in by yourself. The trap door needs a good set of snips. Carful with any cutting tools as there are fuel lines and electrical connections directly underneath the area needing to be cut.
Now for the lines. It is possible to find some v8 complete fuel lines from a donor car. When I tried to do this, I was in a hurry, which made it very difficult to find any. I asked numerous local part-out donors and non were willing to take the lines off. I was out of luck, but maybe you won't be.
I decided to make my own lines, using the existing lines.
Here is a picture off google of ls1 stock lines.
Here is what I made from the v6 lines
I went to Napa and showed them a picture of the factory fuel T block. They found a brass T block I could use. I also got the fittings to thread into the block, and accept a flare fitting to attach the lines. The return line is smaller than the feed. I believe it's 1/2 feed and 3/8 return. That means you need two 1/2 and one 3/8 fittings that's thread into the T block, and the matching flare fittings.
Cut the feed line, and take a bit out to fit the T. Slip a fitting onto each side of the cut feed and flare the ends, you are now able to tighten the T and complete the feed. Now cut the existing return so that it can fit into the T block. Slide the fitting on and flare it. Now you should have the completed lines.
A flaring and cutting tool and be bought from napa or anywhere else for not a lot of cash.
See the open ended return? That just dead ends in the engine bay. No big deal. You should be good to go now.
I started out with buying a complete v8 fuel pump/bucket assembly. I bought a new Delphi unit. The reason I swapped the whole bucket instead of using a Walbro or similar, is for the in tank regulator that is not on the v6 bucket.
I have personally done both the trap door, and dropped the tank. Neither are to hard. The tank comes out with the removal of the rear shock bolts, pan-hard support brace, a few connections, the filler neck bolts and cap covers, and the straps. The hard part is getting it back in by yourself. The trap door needs a good set of snips. Carful with any cutting tools as there are fuel lines and electrical connections directly underneath the area needing to be cut.
Now for the lines. It is possible to find some v8 complete fuel lines from a donor car. When I tried to do this, I was in a hurry, which made it very difficult to find any. I asked numerous local part-out donors and non were willing to take the lines off. I was out of luck, but maybe you won't be.
I decided to make my own lines, using the existing lines.
Here is a picture off google of ls1 stock lines.
Here is what I made from the v6 lines
I went to Napa and showed them a picture of the factory fuel T block. They found a brass T block I could use. I also got the fittings to thread into the block, and accept a flare fitting to attach the lines. The return line is smaller than the feed. I believe it's 1/2 feed and 3/8 return. That means you need two 1/2 and one 3/8 fittings that's thread into the T block, and the matching flare fittings.
Cut the feed line, and take a bit out to fit the T. Slip a fitting onto each side of the cut feed and flare the ends, you are now able to tighten the T and complete the feed. Now cut the existing return so that it can fit into the T block. Slide the fitting on and flare it. Now you should have the completed lines.
A flaring and cutting tool and be bought from napa or anywhere else for not a lot of cash.
See the open ended return? That just dead ends in the engine bay. No big deal. You should be good to go now.
