LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Higher horsepower LT1s, need advice

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Old 11-24-2013, 08:38 AM
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Default Higher horsepower LT1s, need advice

Ok, so after a long road of experimenting with mediocrity its time to put a good piece together.

I put together a .030 over splayed 4 bolt main LT1 block in hopes of a build. It is now time. I'll be running an oddball bottom end, 5.850 rod and a 3.800 crank. I already have awesome pistons, its bottom end time though.

Who's making the best rotating assemblies nowadays? It's been two years since I've paid attention to the industry. My natural tendency points me towards eagle for their cost and quality of their products. What else is out there and what have the higher horsepower guys had luck with?
Old 11-24-2013, 09:05 AM
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What do you call high HP? Boost or NA?
Old 11-24-2013, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TDavanzo
Ok, so after a long road of experimenting with mediocrity its time to put a good piece together.

I put together a .030 over splayed 4 bolt main LT1 block in hopes of a build. It is now time. I'll be running an oddball bottom end, 5.850 rod and a 3.800 crank. I already have awesome pistons, its bottom end time though.

Who's making the best rotating assemblies nowadays? It's been two years since I've paid attention to the industry. My natural tendency points me towards eagle for their cost and quality of their products. What else is out there and what have the higher horsepower guys had luck with?
I have Scat and on the hgher end I would say Callies. Maybe some hardcore racers would tell you otherwise. Just my .02. Good luck!
Old 11-24-2013, 09:23 AM
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Depends on your goals and price range.

Most any forged crank will hold tons of power, some just take a lot more prep then others which may negate their cheaper entry cost. Cranks are like cylinder heads though, and everyone has their preferences and horror stories about one brand or another.

I have an Eagle crank which didn't take much machining, but others have had issues with them that had to be fixed before assembly. Same thing with Scat.
Old 11-24-2013, 09:37 AM
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Really on cranks the only outright bad choice would be Eagle cast, beyond that it is like Puck said all the forged stuff can handle a lot of power but then again so can stock(cast).
Sometimes cheap stuff cost more to balance or other hassles like Eagle having some bad machining on thrust surfaces a few years ago which was rearing out thrust bearings in 5-10K miles. Use a good machinist though and such issues will likely be resolved beforehand.
Old 11-24-2013, 05:19 PM
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I've seen forged Eagles with balance problems. One reputable shop told my the counter weights are wrong, and that they would not touch another one. I have used several Scats with zero issues. I have a Bullet Cams crank in my SS engine. Very nice piece also.
Old 11-24-2013, 06:46 PM
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Scat and Eagle are equal in material, but Scat wins in machining. Eagles take a shitload of drilling to balance. However if you get a great deal on a Eagle they will hold up to quite a bit of power.
Old 11-24-2013, 07:15 PM
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That machining difference applies to their rods also.
Old 11-24-2013, 10:34 PM
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Compstar in my pig.
Old 11-25-2013, 08:06 AM
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I appreciate the input. As far as horsepower goals I would say in the 650-700 horsepower range naturally aspirated. I'm for sure going forged, I want to run the car and get it sorted for a year or two NA and switch over to nitrous, I bought a nitrous piston specifically for the car with more meat.
Old 11-25-2013, 08:35 AM
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My car is built for 600+ hp(on the bottle)...I am running a Scat Crank, Eagle I beams and SRP pistons. 60K miles with no issues so far, but I am only making 408 to the tires n/a...but it only get driving in anger.LOL
Old 11-25-2013, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TDavanzo
I appreciate the input. As far as horsepower goals I would say in the 650-700 horsepower range naturally aspirated. I'm for sure going forged, I want to run the car and get it sorted for a year or two NA and switch over to nitrous, I bought a nitrous piston specifically for the car with more meat.
Well anything over 600 HP N/A is going to take a bit of money and cubes. And unless you are going to tear the motor down when you switch to Nitrous use, the rings and bore finish have to be changed. Might be able to get away with some gapless rings for both.
Old 11-25-2013, 12:13 PM
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I'll change the ring pack when I plan on running spray. I'd rather sort the car out first. It'll be a 393 as far as cubes go. AI 21 degree Trick Flows, AI Intake, solid roller. It'll be a good piece.

The rest of the car is ready but I've always had trouble hooking it up because of the M6 and light switch clutch I have in it. I'm going over to some wrinkle walls though.
Old 11-25-2013, 12:26 PM
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If your talking rwhp, 600 will take some money. If your talking "at the crank", a stock compression 350" with ported factory castings will do that. Lots of those around.

Hardly anybody uses gapless rings anymore.
Those are so "fifteen years ago". LOL
Old 11-25-2013, 02:17 PM
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like ed said, the eagle stuff is good but expect more machine work in balancing and less attention on the tolerances of the piece (aka. journal runout) things like that.......rods are the same story, the compstar stuff are good budget pieces. personally im a do it once do it right kind of guy, if you plan on spinning some high rpm look into a better set of rods, I run a modified callies magnum crank and oliver rods, been in the motor for 5+ years now and the last thing I worry about is the shortblock on mine
Old 11-25-2013, 03:39 PM
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I'm all about spending money right the first time. I'd rather take my time and build the car once then to rush it and rebuild it every year.

As far as the horsepower goals I'm talking about rwhp. I do realize its going to take cash, my budget is flexible.
Old 11-25-2013, 03:39 PM
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@ quik95lt1 I do plan on spinning some rpms out of it. I have a shaft mount rocker setup and want to switch to an aftermarket ignition/fuel system and spin up a solid roller.
Old 11-25-2013, 04:22 PM
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650-700rwhp, 23* heads, and 4.030 bore...at least one of those options is going to have to go
Old 11-25-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Chopstix
650-700rwhp, 23* heads, and 4.030 bore...at least one of those options is going to have to go
Why is that?
Old 11-25-2013, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chopstix
650-700rwhp, 23* heads, and 4.030 bore...at least one of those options is going to have to go
I'm guessing you are talking at the wheels?
Flywheel? Been done many times.


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