Urgent! Royal f*** up heater core replacement
12-07-2013, 06:52 PM
#1
Urgent! Royal f*** up heater core replacement I bought a TYC aftermarket core to replace my blocked up (so blocked I couldn't flush it out) existing one. I took a couple hours cursing under my breath working in 40* weather and got the new one in without too much drama.
Before I installed it I compared it to the OEM and one of the outlets was about 3/4" shorter. No biggie, I'll just cut/ remove the OEM heater hose and replace it with a longer section.. WRONG- # 17 is crimped to #16
By my index finger, I had already started hacking away before I realized that it wasn't a slip on connection.
What are my options? I need my car for work monday. I can't detach the hardlines so I can pull that one out and try to pick out the existing hose and crimp a new section in. Please advise, I'm really at a loss now
Before I installed it I compared it to the OEM and one of the outlets was about 3/4" shorter. No biggie, I'll just cut/ remove the OEM heater hose and replace it with a longer section.. WRONG- # 17 is crimped to #16
By my index finger, I had already started hacking away before I realized that it wasn't a slip on connection.
What are my options? I need my car for work monday. I can't detach the hardlines so I can pull that one out and try to pick out the existing hose and crimp a new section in. Please advise, I'm really at a loss now
Last edited by nitroheadz28; 12-07-2013 at 07:22 PM.
12-07-2013, 07:42 PM
#2
Well I found a thread where shoebox suggested dremeling that crimped section and clamping it to the hardline underneath. It'll be interesting to see if I can get my dremel in there or break the hardline free enough to pull it out slightly (not likely based on how much of a clusterfuck it is in there).
12-08-2013, 09:04 AM
#5
Like shbox said cut the crimp.
Just FYI on things like the tranny lines you can often just put a sturdy hose clamp over those crimps to reseal them when they begin to weep. Just a handy tip for quick fixing weeping crimps.
Also if you think 40 degrees is bad I suggest you button this project up fast, woke up to -4 in Wisconsin yesterday wont get that cold by you but means cold is headed your way.
Just FYI on things like the tranny lines you can often just put a sturdy hose clamp over those crimps to reseal them when they begin to weep. Just a handy tip for quick fixing weeping crimps.
Also if you think 40 degrees is bad I suggest you button this project up fast, woke up to -4 in Wisconsin yesterday wont get that cold by you but means cold is headed your way.
12-08-2013, 11:06 AM
#6
Like shbox said cut the crimp.
Just FYI on things like the tranny lines you can often just put a sturdy hose clamp over those crimps to reseal them when they begin to weep. Just a handy tip for quick fixing weeping crimps.
Also if you think 40 degrees is bad I suggest you button this project up fast, woke up to -4 in Wisconsin yesterday wont get that cold by you but means cold is headed your way.
Just FYI on things like the tranny lines you can often just put a sturdy hose clamp over those crimps to reseal them when they begin to weep. Just a handy tip for quick fixing weeping crimps.
Also if you think 40 degrees is bad I suggest you button this project up fast, woke up to -4 in Wisconsin yesterday wont get that cold by you but means cold is headed your way.
I mean when it comes to working on cars especially (on the street), yes 40* is cold. My circulation is horrible and its becomes quite painful in those temps as my hands turn purple and useless
, I wish I could be more tolerant of the cold. We're getting snow tonight and this week so I'm sure I'll enjoy that approaching front lol. Well off to attempt it, worst case scenario I loop off the core and freeze my *** off in the coming weather. 