Help me build an lt1
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Help me build an lt1
Hey guys I have a 95 z28 auto that i am in process of rebuilding. bought the car fairly cheap had some engine issues. i pulled the motor and its been rebuilt recently. 20 over pistons that look new. the oil pump drive and assembly failed causing loss of oil pressure. i have the block and internals at the machine shop, they turned the mains and line bored it so my bottom end is good to go. So now Im going to assemble the top end myself and figured while i have it out i may as well add some go fast parts. Will be a summer toy so I want it to have street manners. I was thinking of a cam swap for sure and maybe some roller rockers.I wanna try for around 350 hp. Any advice would help as this is my first lt1 build.Thanks again Ill get some pics of the car up soon.
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I have nothing to offer on the 6-spd swap, but I would certainly do a cam swap while the engine is down. If you decide not to change cams, at least do the spring upgrade and 1.6 RR's
That Hotcam will be ok and can easily make 350 hp at the crank. I wouldn't get the kit though; the springs it comes with aren't up to the task of supporting that cam's rev range. Any cam you do will require a tune to get much out of it. In fact, you should be considering a tune even if you stay with the stock cam.
Another thing to consider if staying with the A4 is a torque converter upgrade. It's almost a must with any cam swap and even yields a big performance increase with the stock cam.
If you want a really mild mannered cam than makes about the same power as that Hotcam, consider the Comp 502. For more power than the Hotcam, with about the same manners, go with the Comp 503. That's about as far as I'd go with stock heads. Better yet, call AI or LE and get a custom cam that can outperform any of the above.
While the engine is down, I'd get some thinner head gaskets to boost CR and improve the quench clearance. Something like the GM "Impala" gasket (.026") or aftermarket (.026-.029" range).
That Hotcam will be ok and can easily make 350 hp at the crank. I wouldn't get the kit though; the springs it comes with aren't up to the task of supporting that cam's rev range. Any cam you do will require a tune to get much out of it. In fact, you should be considering a tune even if you stay with the stock cam.
Another thing to consider if staying with the A4 is a torque converter upgrade. It's almost a must with any cam swap and even yields a big performance increase with the stock cam.
If you want a really mild mannered cam than makes about the same power as that Hotcam, consider the Comp 502. For more power than the Hotcam, with about the same manners, go with the Comp 503. That's about as far as I'd go with stock heads. Better yet, call AI or LE and get a custom cam that can outperform any of the above.
While the engine is down, I'd get some thinner head gaskets to boost CR and improve the quench clearance. Something like the GM "Impala" gasket (.026") or aftermarket (.026-.029" range).
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http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=32
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php
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Was a HV oilpump used in the previous rebuild? That is a common cause of oilpump drive failure.
The kit you are looking at has springs that are marginal for the heavier LT1 valves and rockers that are 3/8" stud and limited to like .575" lift so they wont grow with the setup as you want more later.
6-speed swap will make axle damage a lot more likely so if you want to go that way start thinking about a 12-bolt or S60.
What are the pistons? Too often people "rebuild" LT1s and make complete junk of them
The kit you are looking at has springs that are marginal for the heavier LT1 valves and rockers that are 3/8" stud and limited to like .575" lift so they wont grow with the setup as you want more later.
6-speed swap will make axle damage a lot more likely so if you want to go that way start thinking about a 12-bolt or S60.
What are the pistons? Too often people "rebuild" LT1s and make complete junk of them
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#8
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If your rebuilding the bottom end get the rods resized for ARP bolts and you can go as big as the 7000rpm PCM limit will allow. And make sure you get at LEAST 11:1 compression. Yes pump gas will be fine, but don't let some sbc mechanic convince you that anything over 10:1 requires race gas, these ltxs came with 10.4-10.8:1 from the factory, and love 12:1 and a big cam.
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Was a HV oilpump used in the previous rebuild? That is a common cause of oilpump drive failure.
The kit you are looking at has springs that are marginal for the heavier LT1 valves and rockers that are 3/8" stud and limited to like .575" lift so they wont grow with the setup as you want more later.
6-speed swap will make axle damage a lot more likely so if you want to go that way start thinking about a 12-bolt or S60.
What are the pistons? Too often people "rebuild" LT1s and make complete junk of them
The kit you are looking at has springs that are marginal for the heavier LT1 valves and rockers that are 3/8" stud and limited to like .575" lift so they wont grow with the setup as you want more later.
6-speed swap will make axle damage a lot more likely so if you want to go that way start thinking about a 12-bolt or S60.
What are the pistons? Too often people "rebuild" LT1s and make complete junk of them
ill probably just stick with the a4 i dont want to stick 8 thousand into a 3 thousand dollar car. but i definitely do want a cam and headers exhaust and possibly a stall.
as for the pistons dont know. i had the machine shop short block it so i never had them out myself just know when i miked the cylinders they were 20 over and fresh hone marks
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not sure. just know i found the pickup tube weld, was barely a weld and blew apart.
ill probably just stick with the a4 i dont want to stick 8 thousand into a 3 thousand dollar car. but i definitely do want a cam and headers exhaust and possibly a stall.
as for the pistons dont know. i had the machine shop short block it so i never had them out myself just know when i miked the cylinders they were 20 over and fresh hone marks
ill probably just stick with the a4 i dont want to stick 8 thousand into a 3 thousand dollar car. but i definitely do want a cam and headers exhaust and possibly a stall.
as for the pistons dont know. i had the machine shop short block it so i never had them out myself just know when i miked the cylinders they were 20 over and fresh hone marks
Then sell it as soon as you get the engine back together with the parts you already have. By the time you repair it, get a cam and stall tune, etc. you are going to blow by the $3000 mark before you know it and that is IF the tranny is good, and already has gears and exhaust, and the fuel system is still working well enough to support the extra HP.
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Then sell it as soon as you get the engine back together with the parts you already have. By the time you repair it, get a cam and stall tune, etc. you are going to blow by the $3000 mark before you know it and that is IF the tranny is good, and already has gears and exhaust, and the fuel system is still working well enough to support the extra HP.
if the lt4 hot cam kit springs are junk. what should i go for?
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Ok wasnt sure. seen alot of swaps on youtube with street cars. Maybe I can just get the machine shop to custom grind me a cam and do some head work on it. Theres a racing shop around where im from.
#17
Built mine 12 years ago zero deck 11 and some
Change compression gasket match heads and
Intake ( GMPP duel plane) holly 750 and and comp cam 590 int/610 ex forget cam # but
Remember lift real nice stump puller cam
It's hooked to a 2.12 to 1 final drive gearbox
And with a 78 inch diameter propeller max rpm
Was 5600 that formula = 425 hp to the prop
Oh yeah it's in a 14 foot airboat so yes 350 hp
Is vary do able❕
Change compression gasket match heads and
Intake ( GMPP duel plane) holly 750 and and comp cam 590 int/610 ex forget cam # but
Remember lift real nice stump puller cam
It's hooked to a 2.12 to 1 final drive gearbox
And with a 78 inch diameter propeller max rpm
Was 5600 that formula = 425 hp to the prop
Oh yeah it's in a 14 foot airboat so yes 350 hp
Is vary do able❕
#18
cc503 for $300, alexs parts valve spring kit for $100, pacesetter longtubes for $400, and stall from circle d for $400ish. All parts brand new for $1200. You could probably find a used 503 and longtubes and come out even cheaper
#20
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and gaskets and tuning and injectors, and some sort of datalogger to keep tabs on the engine etc. Modding a car isn't as cheap as these short sighted individuals are telling you. Even if it was once you do your $1200 worth of mods you find out two months later you fragged the tranny and a good 4L60E is going to cost an easy $1500+ and a LOT of bad 4L60Es cost that much, are you going to pick the right vendor?
Maybe the fuel pump is tired just from age, another $100+ there. ow about some suspension parts to minimize wheelhop so you don't break that glass axle the f-body got?
Still be nice to know what the pistons are because if the last owner put it together with stock cam and .020 over pistons it wouldn't surprise me if they are complete junk. A friend had an LT1 rebuilt before I met him and the "performance" shop used an $80 set of pistons that is a giant leap backwards from stock and they lowered compression on the engine a good half a point.
Maybe the fuel pump is tired just from age, another $100+ there. ow about some suspension parts to minimize wheelhop so you don't break that glass axle the f-body got?
Still be nice to know what the pistons are because if the last owner put it together with stock cam and .020 over pistons it wouldn't surprise me if they are complete junk. A friend had an LT1 rebuilt before I met him and the "performance" shop used an $80 set of pistons that is a giant leap backwards from stock and they lowered compression on the engine a good half a point.