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What upgraded T56 part causes notchy shifting?

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Old 12-11-2013, 11:48 AM
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Default What upgraded T56 part causes notchy shifting?
Years ago on my last T56 upgrade I bought some aftermarket parts from a sponsor which since went out of business. For 1-2 and 3-4 gears, I purchased upgraded parts which were advertised to make it more reliable in the long run, but would be less friendly to speed shifting. I can't find the receipt, and that behavior is starting to annoy me. To which parts do I need to revert?
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:24 PM
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Billet synchro keys
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
Billet synchro keys
are you talking about the 3-4 solid inserts D&D makes part # BS47?

http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...d=221cPath=145
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:38 PM
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That sounds right. Are there any alternative keys which would give both reliability & the ability to speed shift?
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
That sounds right. Are there any alternative keys which would give both reliability & the ability to speed shift?
Billet keys won't hinder the ability to shift quickly. You will only notice the notchiness when shifting normally. If this is bothersome, you could take a file or small grinder and round off the edges of the billet keys a little bit where it makes contact with the outer slider assembly. That should make gear selection feel more like stock during normal shifting.

Mike
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:38 PM
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I was under the impression that billet keys and brass pads improved shifting...?
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:06 PM
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For me, if I try to speed shift, it's almost like the shifter is blocked right in front of the gate and if I pause to let the RPM's fall a bit then it slides right in. Maybe it's something else?
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
For me, if I try to speed shift, it's almost like the shifter is blocked right in front of the gate and if I pause to let the RPM's fall a bit then it slides right in. Maybe it's something else?
....could be hydraulics. Aftermarket MC has often resolved...many like the Tick. I have the McLeod (Wilwood)
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:42 AM
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I've had the Tick MC for years, and use Castrol SRF as both brake & clutch fluid.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:48 AM
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I'm going to be pissed if I can't bang gears when I get my T56 back together.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:54 AM
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Billet keys will make it a little notchy however they shouldn't cause issues with speed shifting. Go with bronze pads and actual billet keys from tdp and you'll be fine. Coupled with good hydraulics and clutch of course
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:33 AM
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maybe this:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ssion_rebuild/
As the vice president of the remanufacturing division at Rockland Standard Gear, George Kreppein Jr. showed us all the tricks that he had up both of his sleeves and didn't hesitate to tell us what works and what doesn't. Case in point: He wholeheartedly recommends carbon-fiber OE synchronizers and billet synchro keys with a steel shift fork on the commonly weak 3-4 gearset, but finds no value in bronze fork pads. He explained that the nylon OEM-style fork pads work very well and that the metallic units just beat up and wear the slider grooves unnecessarily.
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:13 PM
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Have you done the rev test in gear on a flat surface to be sure the clutch is fully disengaging?
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance
Have you done the rev test in gear on a flat surface to be sure the clutch is fully disengaging?
I'm not clear on these test steps, can you describe the process?
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I'm not clear on these test steps, can you describe the process?
On a level surface with the trans in first gear and clutch pedal pressed all the way in, slowly rev the engine up to 5k ish and see if the car creeps forward. Be sure there's nothing in front of you in case it does move on ya and report back.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I'm going to be pissed if I can't bang gears when I get my T56 back together.
As reference I just put mine back in with new friction cones, billet keys and brass pads (all from thegearbox) and it shifts like a well oiled bolt action rifle. Love it.
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:27 PM
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^apparently keys from thegearbox aren't so sweet...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...6-rebuild.html
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:37 PM
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Just curious, are you running an LS7 clutch? And if so, was that clutch installed before you switched to your Tick MC?
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cajundragger
^apparently keys from thegearbox aren't so sweet...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...6-rebuild.html
Yea I've heard that. We'll see.
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cajundragger
^apparently keys from thegearbox aren't so sweet...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...6-rebuild.html
Great, I just put these in mine lol. I have noticed notchiness under normal driving, I guess this would explain it. I went with the steel 3-4 but decided against the bronze pads. Feels pretty nice. So for future reference, who sells true billet keys?
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