C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Was just wondering what you guys here are using or recommend using in a forced induction motor. Ive always used Rotella T6 5w40 in my motors but my builder is suggesting something slightly thicker for the LS3 he is putting together for me. I forgot to ask him what the bearing clearances will be but Mobil1 15w50 or at least a full syn 15w40 was suggested. Motor is a LS3 with a stock crank, forged pistons and rods. Stock ported heads with a TSP 231/236 114lsa cam with a Vortech putting out 10psi.

Btw, I first put this motor together last year. It was a low mileage stock L92 block with new stock LS3 heads, TSP cam and PRC .675 springs. I reused the lifters, which where LS7 style, since they looked new still. Anyway, I installed the Vortech a few months ago before deciding to forge it. When I pulled it apart last week I noticed some slight scoring on a couple cam lobes. Nothing serious but more then I wanted to see. Not sure if it couldve been due to the lifters. Ill be able to polish the cam but Im now wondering if the Rotella T6 is holding up especially since I occasionally road race the car. I change the oil at 5000mi and use only KN oil filters. Pressures and temps were always good but now Im looking to find a better oil. Car is mostly street but built to handle the track.

My two choices Im in between, heard great things about both:
1) Mobil 1 15w50 with 8oz of Redline zinc additive
2) Redline 10w40 with 8oz of Redline zinc additive
The zinc additive just bumps up the amount of zinc in the oil to better protect the valvetrain. Its $10 for a 16oz bottle that treats up to 12qts. And no I havent used it before but figured it cant hurt.

stock48

iTrader: (17)

I'm a believer in running what builder suggests because every builder has their own way of doing things and you can get in trouble mixing ideas. As a builder I hate nothing more than when customer does the opposite of what I tell them. I run 5~30 mobil in the oem engines and usually 5~40 to 15~40 dello in the engines I build with aftermarket bearings. They almost always come in .0005~.001'' looser than a GM bearing.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

VR1 20w/50
then
Royal Purple 20w/50

per my builder

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

Rotella T6 and Wix filter every 1000-1500 miles

Camaro9969

iTrader: (12)

I agree with what was said whatever the builder suggested. I ran rotella first start up then now im running AMSOIL 10-30 dominator

mrstepheneades

Been running delo 15w40 in mine. Its old worn out ls1 lol.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

we have always ran whatever synthetic was on sale. often the store brand(napa at $2.99/qt). got into the 8's on a mostly stock 6.0 in a 3400lb car.

NitrOmm

iTrader: (1)

Joe Gibbs LS30 from now on.

It's all about the additives, learned my lesson the hard way.

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

Shell Rotella T 15W40

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

rotella 15w40, 2.5 gal goes in truck, then the remaining half gallon and another gallon get tossed into car.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Is it self lubricating? If not I would do the Gibbs or rotella

2000RATA

Joe Gibbs full synthetic here.
Do NOT use K&N filters any more. They switched to a chinese manufacturer and no longer are they the same quality filter. This goes for ac delco as well iirc. One or both of these 2 filters are made in the same factory as the tech filters at walmart and are the same specs/filter. I run Wix oil filters.

S13LSx

I had bad experience with rotella T 15/40 and E85 with no evap. Coulda been the evap though but i spun a bearing from then oil after a 5 hour dyno session and 2 track passes. The oil looked like it had a qt of water in it. Now i run vr1 20/50 and header style evap into my down pipe. Works great. I still change it every other trip to the track.

been 8.7@156 with a cam only L33

Preston99WS6

iTrader: (7)

I agree with not using the K&N anymore, quality has decreased, another option is the Napa Series of Filters which are manufactured by WIX. I run the NAPA Gold series good construction no card board crap a dollar or so cheaper than the WIX and are identical minus the Napa logo on the outside.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Well I see a lot of Rotella 15w40 guys here. I know its good stuff and not only is it what my builder recommends for break-in but I also used to run it in my LS1. Just wonder how itll hold up during a 20-30min session of hpde. Any road racers out there?

Guys running 30 weight, is that with stock bearings or clearances? I ran Syntec 10w30 in a built high cr LS6 I built and after a hpde that stuff poured like water when hot. I would see my oil press drop quite a bit.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

VR1 20/50 Race Full synthetic (changed every 500 miles or track outing)

Wix & K&N filters.

mike13

iTrader: (27)

Like the VR1 20/50 per AES recommendation.

Realcanuk

LME recommended Joe Gibbs LS30 for my engine. Since I paid them lots of money, I'll do as they suggest.

IMPATIENT 1

I use john deere plus 50 oil and delco filter. i change my oil every 15-20hrs of runtime and struggle to keep at least 160* ect.the oil removed at oil change time is so clean i run it in my lawnmower that burns a qrt eachtime i mow lol.the deere oil is badass stuff look it.its made by deere for their engines that set at max tq for days.used to run rotella as well eith good luck in the bigblocks but ls ive built have deere oil

zittman

iTrader: (4)

Schaffers racing oil. Best oil i have ever used. Ran it in all of our dirt track cars. Works well with alcohol also. Our engine builder ran it against Brad Penn and Schaffers made more hp. Plus i run it in our daily drivers. Can go 10,000 miles easily on a oil change.