69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

For the car in my sig which will be mostly a street car, what is the typical stall speed range that will make for a nice driver yet still allow the turbo to do its thing?

I just hope to avoid that loose mushy feel at part throttle that I've felt with other converters in n/a applications.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

With that turbo and cam I would stay around 3000-3200. We ran a very similar combo and could make 10psi on the foot brake and it was nice for daily driving. The PI converters seem to drive the best as they feel pretty tight at part throttle.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

tight 3000 for a street car

stock48

iTrader: (17)

I love my yank py3000 on the street. Nice and tight and still goes mid 1.3's off the foot brake.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

I have Transmission Specialties local to me. I called them and they suggested a 10" converter for $435, and for another $100.00 they would install a billet cover. They are recommending ~3600 stall, which I'm afraid would be a little loose. After that they recommend a ~$950 9" converter. I like what I'm reading about Yank and PTC, but I also havent found a bad thing about Trans Specialites either.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

10-10.5" 3000 would be my choice with that cam and small turbine wheel.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

ive had a 3400-3600 recommended for my setup from PTC. not to hi-jack, but no need to make the same thread.. What about this setup?

AES390, Twin Turbonetics TC66's, 229/235 .610/.627 114+6 cam, 3.90 gear, 4L80e.

95% street car.

HexenLord

As long as you retain lockup, don't worry too much about the stall for a street car. Most people have great luck with stalls up to 3800 on street cars as long as they retain the lockup in the 4L80e.

I've used 2800 before and honestly thought it was holding me back a little. Still perfectly driveable. 3200-3400 seems to be the sweet spot for most street apps since a large portion of the setups on here focus around a ~76mm turbo or either twins or 88mm for the larger displacment motors.

As long as the stall doesn't seem obviously wrong, like a 2600 or a 4600, then what is being spec'd to you is most likely well within the ballpark of what you need.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

I don't see you needing more tgan 3200 stall built to withstand boost and BE SURE to get the largest transcooler you can fit in there!

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Do you guys think $450-550 is enough for a good converter? Just seems a little cheap compared to the other prices I hear thrown around here.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

My converter is running me $1075.

HexenLord

Depends. Single disk converters are going to be cheaper than multi-disk. Billet converters are going to be more expensive than non-billet. You need to figure out what is in the converter, not just which stall it is.

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Assume the "disks" are referring to a OD converter? I'm a Th400 guy.

Busa_rob

iTrader: (1)

Sub'd

Was just thinking the same thing.

HexenLord

It was a general statement. I was just saying you can't base price on stall alone. You need to find out what is in the converter, and how much power it is rated for.

Is $550 enough for a good converter? Sure. But just because its $550 and the stall you need doesn't make it a good converter..

tiznodd

iTrader: (4)

Disks are referring to the clutch disks in a lockup converter. Multi-disk lockup converters are able to stay locked WOT while singles are just designed for partial throttle cruising.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

The cheap ones just don't allow you to lock them up under power. Also make sure to work on the PWM converter table to keep them alive.

Inssan

I ran a 3500 stall on the street for years. You won't even notice the slightly mushy feel after a few weeks.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

Py3400 in 4 different cars, loved every one,

1997trans-am

iTrader: (2)

With that size turbo, 3200 is my vote.