blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,

Going with a LE custom grind cam: 231/239 .571/.587 110 LSA cam (Recommended by LE as the most radical cam that will work best with stock heads).

Supporting Mods: Pacesetter Long tubes, Pacesetter Offroad y-pipe, Underdrive Pulley,lingenfelter full cold air intake, Throttle bottle bypass, Strut tower brace, subframe connectors.

Spring 2014 Mods (all parts are purchased and awaiting install):
Motive high performance 3:73 gears, TA performance girdle cover, TA performance stud main bearing cap kit, solid pinion spacer, full richmond rearend rebuild kit.

What am I using with my cam setup:
1.) Lunati 73925 K2 dbl spring kit with springs, retainers, locks, locators and seals
2.) Comp 1618-16 rockers (Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers)
3.) Comp 7938-16 pushrods (Hi-Tech Performance pushrods)
4.) Comp 4502-16 studs (Pro Magnum Studs)
5.) Yank SS3600 stall

Dyno numbers before cai or a tune: 270/300

Couple questions:

1.) All parts I have listed above, is that all I need or do I need anything else or anything that you would recommend?
2.) Parts used for cam, good choices? Were recommended by LE himself.
3.) What possible numbers could I put down, I was hoping something like 320's-330's/340's-350's. Seen a 96 with a pretty much identical cam put down 340's-350's/360's

Thanks for your time.

Devin

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

BUMP. Just got my pro-magnum studs in as well as my pushrods. Does anyone suggest a different cam setup?

Goals for car - Weekend toy, usually in town. Some very slight highway driving. Occasional strip use. Mostly digs on the street and that sort of thing. Idle quality or driveability isn't a huge issue. I'm not one of those "let's stuff the biggest cam into my motor kind of guy". I would like a cam that works best with my setup that makes very good HP and very good TQ. What your opinions on the yank SS 3600 with the 373 gear setup. Is that a perfect match for stall and gears? Would like some more input. FWIW I am a huge fan of that deep throaty choppy idle, some a low LSA would be good wanted.

BSmiff

The most recommended converter by any f-body guy on this site for a first converter is going to be the Yank SS3600 or the similar offering by Circle D. They are similar in price and both have an extensive amount of testimonials and before/after result threads on here.

As far as the gear, be wary of installing any kind of gear in your 10 bolt because of how small the ring gear gets as you go up. The stock gear will hold out for a lot longer than that 3.73 will even with the girdle and welded tubes.

And for the cam swap all you would need to add is a tune. Dyno or mail order.

BSmiff

Should dyno a little less than this guy.

DeltaElite121

iTrader: (1)

Devin, don't worry about LSA and focus on getting the cam correctly dialed for your application. If you want to do this correctly and make GOOD power - a custom camshaft is in order. There are plenty of cams that will work well in your setup, but "get the shoe that fits" and you'll find out what you're missing.

Also, I recommend the Circle D 5C (mine's a 4200) if you're really making it a weekend warrior. Chris's 5C is straight-up nasty. He did a great job on mine to say the least.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply. Always heard that 373's with the ss 3600 stall is pretty much money. I also forgot to mention that a tranny cooler and gauge would probably also be a good investment with also with a good shift kit. Is the cam that LE recommended to big (in terms of be optimal for my setup)? He didn't really go into details on the power band, usually run the car up to about 6100ish.

Devin

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the input. I just want the best cam for my application. I'm not trying to go keep on the parts as I've seen that spell disaster for others before me. How do you feel about my selection of studs / pushrods? I have looked at the Lunati double spring I originally posted, do you have something else you would recommend instead? Do you suggest LE for the custom grind, reason I ask it because I'm torn. I've talked to some car people around me and they say that the cam originally posted is too big for a stock headed lt1. Some say it's fine. LE said to use 7.100 pushrods which is what I bought. However it seems that alot of people go with 7.200 length?

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

If Lloyd said it's "the most radical cam that will work best with stock heads" and you don't plan on going much past the 6100 rpm you indicated above, then you're way off base with that 231/239 cam. Not based on my own experience, but regardless of the power numbers, I'd bet some money that your car would be much quicker with a more reasonable cam if you're staying with stock heads. I'd go no further than the 226/234 example above. And even that cam would want to be shifted >6500 for best results.
For this, "Weekend toy, usually in town. Some very slight highway driving. Occasional strip use. Mostly digs on the street", I'd go with 4.10 gears. SS3600 converter is a win. I hear good things about Circle D, just no experience with them.

englundjd

This is exactly what Lloyd is sending to me except my cam is on a 109lsa and I'm going to be getting LPP long tubes. LLoyd told me this cam would be done ~6400rpm so you wont be getting everything out of that cam unless you raise the shift points to around 6500/6600rpm. My current cam (in sig) shifts at 6150rpm and its quite a bit smaller.

I'm running my ss3600 and 3:73's on the street and I love it, very easy to drive... maybe when we get everything sorted out we'll have to race since your only a couple hours away from me

BALLSS

if Lloyd said it was good with stock heads, he knows his stuff.

some would argue it is to big to reach max power for stock heads and spining stock bottom to 6500+ RPM can be hard on old stock bottom ends.

I personally like smaller cams that make more TQ down low but I have other priorities other than MAX power cam "x" can provide

fwiw I made 351 RWHP/350 RWTQ with a baby 214/220 on a 112 LSA custom grind cam BUT I had ported heads with 2.02/1.60 valves.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys.

Thanks for all the replies. To be honest this is the first time I feel actually lost in what I'm looking for. I've always heard 373's with 3600 is a perfect match. But now lately I'm hearing 410's would be a better match. I think my current shift point is around 6150-6250 range. I've read the cam sticky over and over. Does anyone have any input on the pushrods length? Like I stated I have 7.100 but yet many use 7.200? Besides all the parts included above do any of you recommend me to replace anything else while I'm in there? New lifters or anything like that? It has new plugs, opti, wires, water pump gaskets etc. I honestly do like that choppy cam sound but I'm fully open to suggestions. I know a similar build but he is using LE 224/231 .592/.592 110 LSA and running stock heads. As for the supporting my lunati package and RR's were recommended by LE. I don't mind a cam I can grow into since I'm planning H/I work down the road. I would like to keep my shiftsess then 6300 for now. I like a TQ cam but I if possible a nice even %'s for HP and TQ would be best. Bump for more input!

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

I'd be down for sure to run them. Just so undecided about the cam. I believe the retainers and spring package along with the RR's and studs / PR's all seem to be of the highest quality. You running a temp gauge with ur stalled auto? I like the 110 LSA cams maybe a little different setup to have the can top out around 6300?

BALLSS

you need to measure with a PR length check tool to confirm length

with that said mmtors with decked block & heads, cam, 1:6RR often require a shorter PR, which is why Lloyd is recomending that size.

put a 7.100 in, mark valve stem tip with marker and lash that valve. rotate motor by hand 2 turns and then remove RR to see where the patern is. If center it is fine. if closer to the intake side than put the 7.200 back in. I suspect the 7.100" ones would be more centered

BSmiff

If you plan on your car being a max effort 1/4 mile car with no street time ever, then 4.10s would be fine. If you ever plan on doing a power adder and dont want to have to switch gears again stay with your stock gears.

englundjd

I have a big cheap hayden trans cooler but i dont have a guage... Its been in the car for about 20000 miles now and the fluid isn't burnt ... and i drive the **** out of my car lol

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

Id really trust what llyod says, like others are saying he really does know his stuff, it it was me Id stick with the 3.73s.

I run a bigger cam and a higher LSA and taller gears and the car drives fine and makes plenty of torque down low.

These cars will almost always make good torque down low because of the ci, it wont have the same powerband as a stock one which peaks around 2500 rpms, but some people exaggerate the effects of a big cam on the power band, you still have torque down low but the meat of it is in the mid range, which is what your converter is for.

A good tune can fix the driveability problems.

My personal preference on a street driven cam in a 350 is around 230 duration, but Ive driven way bigger cams and done right they arent as bad as some people say.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

blk97, Everything I hear you say (torque, 6300 rpm shift points, choppy idle) indicates you should be looking at something in the 224-226 range intake duration with a ~108 LSA and 4 deg advance. When you DO add some good cylinder heads at a later point, your optimum shift points will move up to about 6700-6800 rpm with this type of cam. With a 3600 converter and 3.73's, I guarantee your car will be quicker than with that 231-ish cam you originally mentioned.