LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LS6 valve springs with 1.7rr's?

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Old 01-16-2014, 11:35 AM
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Default LS6 valve springs with 1.7rr's?

I'm finally getting around to putting a new motor in my Camaro after blowing it up a year and a half ago. Just putting a stock longblock LT1 in it. Stock cam and heads. But I've had a set of Angus Racing 1.7rr's laying around for it for a very long time. I figured I might as well put them in the new motor. It'll be very easy to change them while it's out. I'm looking for a bank account friendly set of valve springs to run with them to accomodate for the lift. If my calculations are correct, lift on the exhaust will be .520" and a little lower on the intake. I considered hotcam springs, but didn't want to push it that close to their max lift. I've heard of people running LS6 valve springs in LT1's, and I was just wondering if that'd be a decent choice, and what all I'd need as far as seats, locks, and retainers
Old 01-16-2014, 04:37 PM
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stock valve seats should fit with no issue, and a set of 648-12 comp machined valve locks and a set of 787-16 retainers and you should get enough installed height to have plenty of clearance to run those rockers on the stock cam.
Old 01-17-2014, 01:29 AM
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I think that is a cool idea as i liked the early F-body LT1 cam (more than the later cam). Better lift, duration and tighter LSA. So lets take a look at the numbers.

94-96 F body stock cam = 202/207@0.050" .450/.460 lift w/1.5 rockers which is = .510/.521 w/1.7 rockers. So normal safety margin is 0.060" (to prevent coil bind) means u need a sring with .521"+.060"=0.581" between the installed height of the spring and the solid (or compressed) height.

U will need to shop for a spring like that (.581 lift) but i dont think u will find one without using longer stem vlvs. Or maching deeper vlv spring pockets in the heads. Ive never used the LS6 springs so wont make that recommendation though others swear by them. Try looking at this thread: http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-|-lt...rockers-2.html

Sorry i dont have that kinda time to shop for u but please post if u find a spring that will work.

Dont know what u mean for "seats"? As those are what the vlv closes on and will require machine work. I think u mean seals.
cardo
Old 01-17-2014, 02:59 AM
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The ls6 spring is designed for the light weight hollow stem valves it controls and would probably be marginal at best. They have lighter seat pressure than the after market stuff. I run the comp 26918, 787-16 retainer, stock spring seat and stock locks. If you run the 648 lock you may need a NSA rocker, guide plates etc.
Old 01-17-2014, 05:00 AM
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cardo, are you actually suggesting it is hard to run .525+ lift on stock heads without longer valves????

lt1-xjs oiffered a thoughtful coherent post the OP should pay attention to.

The OP would be well advised to not take any advise from cardo.
Old 01-17-2014, 07:37 AM
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Question will the PAC 1218s drop on LT1 heads without mods and if so what seats, retainers and locks would be needed?
Old 01-17-2014, 08:17 AM
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fwiw I put a set of the new ls6 springs on my vortec 5.7 in my truck with a stock 95 f body cam and a set of 1.6rr rockers, I installed them at 1.750 which gave me a bit extra seat pressure, and it controls it fine to 5300 where I shift it.....with the added valve velocity due to the 1.7 it will more than likely require a bit more spring than the ls6, we ran a set of 1.7's on a friends motor with a mild cam and it required a lot of spring to control that ratio rocker at 6500rpm, as said above the ls valves are lighter 8mm valves, the lt and sbc stuff is a much heavier valve
Old 01-17-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 97Z28SS
Question will the PAC 1218s drop on LT1 heads without mods and if so what seats, retainers and locks would be needed?
Same as the comp spring.
Old 01-17-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
fwiw I put a set of the new ls6 springs on my vortec 5.7 in my truck with a stock 95 f body cam and a set of 1.6rr rockers, I installed them at 1.750 which gave me a bit extra seat pressure, and it controls it fine to 5300 where I shift it.....with the added valve velocity due to the 1.7 it will more than likely require a bit more spring than the ls6, we ran a set of 1.7's on a friends motor with a mild cam and it required a lot of spring to control that ratio rocker at 6500rpm, as said above the ls valves are lighter 8mm valves, the lt and sbc stuff is a much heavier valve

I know you understand this but for the others benefit.
The f-body cam in an LT1 wants more than 5300rpm.
Old 01-17-2014, 02:39 PM
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cardo, are you actually suggesting it is hard to run .525+ lift on stock heads without longer valves????

lt1-xjs oiffered a thoughtful coherent post the OP should pay attention to.

The OP would be well advised to not take any advise from cardo.



Did u read my warning or do u need mental therapy? Heres what i said: U will need to shop for a spring like that (.581 lift) but i dont think u will find one without using longer stem vlvs.

If u have springs he can use then post them? Why can't u post your recommend springs?? I dont have to criticize your advice here because to dont provide any. What a hypocrite.

Your so butt hurt from your previous posts on vlv trains where u suggest lofting the vlv is OK and just fine. U have no concept of vlv float and a danger to others looking for advice. That and adjusting valve by sound is as dangerous/harmful as it gets.

You've become hyper accusative due to your lack of knowledge and limited mental facilities. Just post your advice - if u can - or just shut up.
cardo

Last edited by cardo0; 01-17-2014 at 02:42 PM. Reason: highlight statement, spelling
Old 01-17-2014, 03:56 PM
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Comp 918's will handle the lift.

Quick is right about the 1.7 ratio being a bit harder to control though.
Old 01-17-2014, 04:16 PM
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tspence, make sure u check for rocker arm to retainer clearance for the full rocker travel. Also ensure the rocker slot clears the stud for the entire rocker travel from vlv lift. The rocker mfr should have some specs in the instructions - usually 0.050"-0.060".

cardo
Old 01-17-2014, 04:17 PM
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You don't realize that people send PMs laughing about your wild ignorance and inability to comprehend when you are proven wrong.
I can't remember you making a coherent point on valvetrain to have hurt my feeling with.
I didn't write much because you aren't smart enough to debate with.

For the benefit of the OP though.

Just do a search and find what guys are running, MOST cam only setups run more lift than you are considering without any problems finding springs or getting longer valves, not even close to an issue.

Don't know what you are talking about when you seem to be suggesting I told someone to adjust valves by sound, I have tried it but don't like it I like to just turn a polylock down to touching then add preload cold on the stand. I understand valve float but that is another discussion.

Then I did recommend a spring when I supported lt1-xjs's post.
Old 01-17-2014, 04:40 PM
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I do realize u have been banned form other forums for your malicious attacks. And i imagine there are more than a few hack loonies that are bitter with me when proven wrong for adj vlvs by sound. But several of those bad mouthing hacks are gone and havent posted here for months. I can only hope their butt hurts so bad they dont come back.

No u didnt recommend any spring when u posted personal attacks against me - only later did u mention "The f-body cam in an LT1 wants more than 5300rpm." That somehow means u recommended a spring???

U are so out of touch with reality u need to seek professional help. Your so remorse, bitter and false in your posts that u could possibly be danger to others.

cardo
Old 01-17-2014, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1-xjs
The ls6 spring is designed for the light weight hollow stem valves it controls and would probably be marginal at best. They have lighter seat pressure than the after market stuff. I run the comp 26918, 787-16 retainer, stock spring seat and stock locks. If you run the 648 lock you may need a NSA rocker, guide plates etc.
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
cardo, are you actually suggesting it is hard to run .525+ lift on stock heads without longer valves????

lt1-xjs oiffered a thoughtful coherent post the OP should pay attention to.

The OP would be well advised to not take any advise from cardo.
Originally Posted by cardo0
I do realize u have been banned form other forums for your malicious attacks. And i imagine there are more than a few hack loonies that are bitter with me when proven wrong for adj vlvs by sound. But several of those bad mouthing hacks are gone and havent posted here for months. I can only hope their butt hurts so bad they dont come back.

No u didnt recommend any spring when u posted personal attacks against me - only later did u mention "The f-body cam in an LT1 wants more than 5300rpm." That somehow means u recommended a spring???

U are so out of touch with reality u need to seek professional help. Your so remorse, bitter and false in your posts that u could possibly be danger to others.

cardo

I have not been banned from other forums for my malicious attacks sure there are folks who don't like me but even most of those will tell you I am pretty knowledgeable.

Far as the adjusting valvetrain by sound please cite an example. I am rather sure I have never suggested someone adjust by sound. I think that even if that was a good method exhaust noise and intake noise would make it very hard to do well on most street/strip cars.
Old 01-17-2014, 05:53 PM
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More defense crap. U aint worth the effort to look up and drag out the mud. How that helps the OP cant be possible. U are more worried about slandering someone than helping anyone. Responding to your attacks and excuses/coverups is just a massive waste of time.

U even coincide u have Teed others off. Your juvenile mentality that u are never wrong needs professional help. See your doctor ASAP - it will help all of us. Just post the facts if u have any or shut up.

cardo
Old 01-17-2014, 07:21 PM
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I have seen these recommended on here before, though I have no personal experience with them. thinking about getting a set myself instead of running the hotcam springs I have.
http://www.alexsparts.com/lt1-valve-...rs-locks-cups/
Hope this helps.
Old 01-18-2014, 08:02 AM
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cardo look around at the commonly offered LT1 cam kits.
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php 9 cam/spring kits listed for OEM heads with .560+ lift
Lloyd sells cams over .550 lift every day for guys going cam only too
Lingenfelter offers cams up in the .560 range here is just one. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...w=&range_high=

Here is the SMALLEST of the Comp XFI LT1 grinds.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1108&sb=0

That one happens to use the springs and retainers lt1-xjs recommended so there you have it from Comp.

Maybe you should contact all these companies and set them straight.


Maybe you are hung up on the LT1 iron heads which have a very tall guide that will interfere with seal clearance at much lower lift than the aluminum heads.
Simple fact is the aluminum heads are frequently run with much more than .520 lift without any trouble with spring selection or needing longer valves. Yes porters often use longer valves when they replace the valves.

I have listed many practical examples of people using .550 lift+ on stock valves as a rule, where are you coming up with your idea that this could be any sort of issue?
Old 01-18-2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
I do realize u have been banned form other forums for your malicious attacks. And i imagine there are more than a few hack loonies that are bitter with me when proven wrong for adj vlvs by sound. But several of those bad mouthing hacks are gone and havent posted here for months. I can only hope their butt hurts so bad they dont come back.
I don't recall anyone being proven wrong by the likes of you, however if it pleases you to think you have some superior knowledge over techniques that have been around and used with success, then knock yourself out. I'll suggest adjusting valves with engine running on a street car all day long. Either open ear or using a stethoscope if one needs to. Works just fine. As I've stated before, just because you aren't smart enough to use one such technique does not mean it is bad for everyone else. As you've stated before:
Originally Posted by cardo0
Come on guys this aint rocket science.
Old 01-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
cardo look around at the commonly offered LT1 cam kits.
http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php 9 cam/spring kits listed for OEM heads with .560+ lift
Lloyd sells cams over .550 lift every day for guys going cam only too
Lingenfelter offers cams up in the .560 range here is just one. http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...w=&range_high=
Here is the SMALLEST of the Comp XFI LT1 grinds.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1108&sb=0
That one happens to use the springs and retainers lt1-xjs recommended so there you have it from Comp.
Maybe you should contact all these companies and set them straight.
Maybe you are hung up on the LT1 iron heads which have a very tall guide that will interfere with seal clearance at much lower lift than the aluminum heads.
Simple fact is the aluminum heads are frequently run with much more than .520 lift without any trouble with spring selection or needing longer valves. Yes porters often use longer valves when they replace the valves.
I have listed many practical examples of people using .550 lift+ on stock valves as a rule, where are you coming up with your idea that this could be any sort of issue?



Why do i need to "look around"??
I already stated i didnt have the time to look for springs for him. And i mentioned if he could not find a spring with that much travel that he would may need longer vlv stem (or deeper spring pockets in the heads). I didnt say he had to and dont know why u continue to claim the opposite. Just let him know thats how its done for high lift cams requiring tall springs. U seem to get all bent up over that because u dont know how its done when high lift is needed. Why u need to use personal attacks just because u dont understand something is very immature.

U read things into my statements that are just not true. It seems u are so butt hurt from the past u need to degrade someone with any possible opportunity. Why cant u just shut up and look things up for your self. Try D. Vizards book on cylinder heads. I have read it at least twice and continue to use for reference. Why? Because i dont have countless hours of dyno time to prove everything that works and doesnt work while he has. BTW i think u will find that some (or much) the head work done for profit as less than desirable.

No i dont think shopping for springs for him/OP is a good use of my time as he needs to make some serious choices for himself. And from your posts i dont read that u have selected any either.

cardo


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