96 Camaro z28 Assistance
02-01-2014, 06:42 PM
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96 Camaro z28 Assistance I currently drive a 1996 Hard Top Camaro z28. It's manual with a Hurst Shifter, Flow Master Exhaust System, and SLP Fan. I'm looking to accomplish 400 horse power/torque to the wheels or more if possible. I have a list of parts listed, but open to opinions if i'm wrong or need something else. Is there a different way/parts, or something better to go with? I can't pull my motor out due to my HOA Home Owners Association. That's why I was willing to order the parts and have a shop do it for me, sadly. I could use all the help I possibly could to add 125-150 wheel horse power. That is my goal. If someone could get specific with the parts and/or part numbers, that'd be great! Thank You!
Better Radiator (looking for a better one)
Long Tube Headers
Roller Rockers
Cam
LT4 Cylinder Heads
LT4 Intake Manifold
BBK Throttle Body 52mm or 54mm if possible
ECU Tune
Better Radiator (looking for a better one)
Long Tube Headers
Roller Rockers
Cam
LT4 Cylinder Heads
LT4 Intake Manifold
BBK Throttle Body 52mm or 54mm if possible
ECU Tune
Last edited by z28merica; 02-01-2014 at 06:56 PM.
02-01-2014, 07:28 PM
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I'm just going to list the parts you have and go over them one by one.
Better radiator - stock radiator should be fine but be prepared to buy a new one if necessary
Fuel pump - stock one should be fine is good unless you decide to spray
Fuel injectors - 30 lbers are good
LTs - many people go with pacesetters for budget headers, if you've got money to burn go with a higher quality brand such as Kooks. Another mention are TSP's. Many are happy with them and they are a sponsor
RR - run 1.6s. Do some research and find the brand you like and what's most suited for your application
Cam - Custom grind if you are willing to spend some more money, however there are many pre-made grinds out there that are very good. Make sure you upgrade valve springs because stockers are practically maxed out as it is on stock cam. Pick your poison https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ion-guide.html
LT4 Heads - they flow better than LT1 heads however don't think LT1 heads are junk, when ported they can flow well and are enough to reach your power goals
LT4 Intake - no different than LT1 intake besides extra material. Only get it if you are matching it to LT4 heads
BBK TB - stock one is fine for your application. Porting the stock one is a good idea
ECU tune - these cars have PCMs, not ECUs. Yes you will need a tune, for sure. A dyno tune will cost more than a mail order tune but will be able to squeeze every bit of power out of your car.
My advice to you is to continue with bolt ons/free mods. There are many great threads/writeups on here discussing the two. Also, have you ever consider N20? It's the cheapest HP out there if all you want is to go fast on a budget.
Better radiator - stock radiator should be fine but be prepared to buy a new one if necessary
Fuel pump - stock one should be fine is good unless you decide to spray
Fuel injectors - 30 lbers are good
LTs - many people go with pacesetters for budget headers, if you've got money to burn go with a higher quality brand such as Kooks. Another mention are TSP's. Many are happy with them and they are a sponsor
RR - run 1.6s. Do some research and find the brand you like and what's most suited for your application
Cam - Custom grind if you are willing to spend some more money, however there are many pre-made grinds out there that are very good. Make sure you upgrade valve springs because stockers are practically maxed out as it is on stock cam. Pick your poison https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ion-guide.html
LT4 Heads - they flow better than LT1 heads however don't think LT1 heads are junk, when ported they can flow well and are enough to reach your power goals
LT4 Intake - no different than LT1 intake besides extra material. Only get it if you are matching it to LT4 heads
BBK TB - stock one is fine for your application. Porting the stock one is a good idea
ECU tune - these cars have PCMs, not ECUs. Yes you will need a tune, for sure. A dyno tune will cost more than a mail order tune but will be able to squeeze every bit of power out of your car.
My advice to you is to continue with bolt ons/free mods. There are many great threads/writeups on here discussing the two. Also, have you ever consider N20? It's the cheapest HP out there if all you want is to go fast on a budget.
Last edited by Almonz T/A; 02-01-2014 at 07:49 PM.
