billyflantos

iTrader: (6)

will any ls style gm pan fit in a 1st gen f body swap?

Lost_in_calgary

Define "fit". Do you mean without modification? I think the simple answer to that is "no"

The truck pan fits but hangs way below the cross member.
The H3 pan (hot rod pan) fits but hangs below the cross member by about 1.5"
The modified F-body pan fits

If you want to go unmodified then aftermarket pan is a must. I used the Holley pan on my swap.

homemade87

I know you asked about stock pans , I decided on the autocraft pan for my 67 camaro. After adding the time and money I had to put into it. By the time I got done the autocraft was a much better performing pan and not much more money for me. The new holley pan was not out yet .If you already have a pan and the tools to notch it I would give it a shot, you may save a few bucks. I am all about saving a few bucks ,but I always weigh the options. Just a thought. Good luck with your build

Toddoky

The stock F-body pan will usually fit if you are willing to install the engine jammed all the way back against the firewall, but that introduces a whole list of other undesirable compatibility, fitment and serviceability compromises in my opinion. If you want to install the engine a sensible and natural appearing distance from the firewall (sensible is the key word, not the 3"-4" I've seen some mounts do), then the stock F-body pan requires notching.

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

What about a Hummer H3 pan. It has the typical shape of a 350 pan

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Hammer / H3 pan / aka GM Muscle pan is a truck pan at best and will hang too low.

Save yourself some time and get a pan that fits correctly. I had a CTS-V pan, it only hung 1" below the crossmember.. I bottomed it out and cracked it. Get one of the Swap pans. If Cast, get the Holley 302-2 or MAST pan. most of the Steel once will be ok.

You can still a un-modified F-Body pan in.. but it get really close to the steering linkage and you have to push the engine back a lot.. that will cause Firewall and Trans Tunnel fitment issues. If your going F-Body.. get S&P to notch it.

Just my opinion..

BC

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

Time after time I see people overlooking the modified x member. I'm using a 98-02 F-body pan in my Turbo LS 67 Firebird and all i did to resolve any clearance issues was notch the x member. Pretty easy to do and no special welding required (steel is alot easier to weld than aluminum!) and cheaper!

Just my own 2 cents worth.

1989GTA

I agree^^^^. Spend the money and get the Holley-2 pan. Save yourself some headaches.

reedld

iTrader: (7)

Good advice...S&P notched my f body pan...nice work. My swap already had the H3 pan in it and the stock fbody pan hit the crossmember so.....I notched the pan.

v8sten

iTrader: (5)

the hummer h3 pan and truck pans are not the same. the h3 pan is very similar to the holley 302-2 pan.

thats why its called "the muscle car pan"

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The Hummer H3 is based on the GMT-3xx series (small/mid size truck platform). GMT=General Motor Truck... therefore Hummer H3 is a Truck by all means..

Being 7.5" deep in the rear sump. It is not very well suited to many of these Pro Turing, lowered type of Swap many are doing. Even for standard height suspension swap.. it is very questionable for being safe as far as ground clearance. When I cracked my CTS-V pan (6.75" deep) and ended up on the flatbed.. I bottomed out just getting on the freeway ramp.. which leads me to have an opinion on pans that hang below the cross member.

BC

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

The drag link being behind the crossmember is where I had my clearance problems. How did you get around that? I notched my 2nd gen subframe crossmember to clear the f body pan, but the steering linkage is in the front on them.

HexenLord

The muscle car pan is a no-no. If you bottom out and hit it, you could ruin the engine if you aren't watching your oil pressure.

The Holley 302-2 pan is $350 from Jegs or Summit. Steep price, but it clears everything, doesn't require any notching, and doesn't hang below the subframe.

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

This would be the first I've heard of this problem with the steering linkage (1st gen here though), if I run into it in my swap I'll clearance the drag link or use a different one. I just prefer modifying steel versus aluminum unless I have no other choice. Worse case I slot my engine mounts to clear any linkage. I do all my own fab work/welding so I can't justify hacking up a stock pan or coughing up $500 for a F'n oil pan.

74novacustom

Ive got about 50K miles with my Hummer pan, have hit a couple times until i put big block springs up front. But i want to lower the car but cant.

Get the Holley pan if stock front ride height is too high for you.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Was ging to ask the same question, that being the 1stgen fbody is a rear steer.. the fbody pan has a very long ( front to rear) lower sump that generally caused problem in the past with the sterring linkages. And this being with the engine mount as rear as posible.
Notching the crossmember on the 1st gen will help lower the engine. But doen't help with the linkage. It will help on a front steer car... Abody or 2nd gen fbody.

let us know what you notch looks like and whatyou did for the steering linkage.

BC

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

Here's my frame notch, we are mocking the LS3/6speed up soon, when I get to the steering issues if any come up, I'll post up what I do to remedy it.

EDIT, I remember why I wont have issues, I'm doing 3rd gen F-body steering which uses a longer pitman arm. Sorry, so much going on with the car I forget what the hell is going on sometimes haha!

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

The Fbody pan does fit as it is what I am using. The engine will have to go back close to the firewall. But it does work and it will hit when going full look on turns only.

CTSV pan works also and does hang less than an inch. I posted pics on one of my threads. Here's how you ensure a pan that hangs will not get hit. If I used the V pan, I was going to get a thick piece of angle iron and weld it to the bottom of the crossmember. Just let it hang enough to hit the metal and not the pan. I'd rather it hit the angle iron than my pan.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

By "3rd gen" do you mean F body? curious how you do that, and how a longer pitman arm will help. Being a rear steer, a longer pitman arm will just move the drag link further back, which will still be in the same place as the F body oil pan sump.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

I was confused on that also but I just kept my mouth shut. ^^^^