Texas Speed LS1 Headers 1st Gen Camaro?
02-08-2014, 02:46 PM
#1
Texas Speed LS1 Headers 1st Gen Camaro? Has anyone used the stainless steel LS headers from Texas speed in a 1st gen Camaro here? https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4273-t...1967-1969.aspx
I have a set of eBay headers I used last year when I did the swap and I think the flanges are warped, causing exhaust leaks. I'm thinking about a new set of headers, but would love to be in the $5-600 range.
Looking for pics of PS box clearance as well as how low they hang or how tight they tuck in relation to the subframe. Thanks.
I have a set of eBay headers I used last year when I did the swap and I think the flanges are warped, causing exhaust leaks. I'm thinking about a new set of headers, but would love to be in the $5-600 range.
Looking for pics of PS box clearance as well as how low they hang or how tight they tuck in relation to the subframe. Thanks.
02-09-2014, 07:38 AM
#4
I too just went thru the header thing on my 67. I looked at the dynatech but did not care for the up and over tube on the drivers side. Looked ugly in my opinion. One of my concerns was I wanted to keep my manual linkage for my four speed. Did not want a fluid clutch. The up and over tube in the rear was in the way of the z-bar. The other concern you should have is your engine angle. If your engine angle is low so are your headers. The headers will tip down or up. If one car has a 2.5* engine angle and another is a 5* then the headers will have diffrent clearence. I have learned this in my prosess. I wound up with the kooks stainless headers and they fit great . I have my engine at a 3 degree angle from the frame and have good clearence around the steering box and the floor pan . This engine angle worked along with the rearend angle as well with out having to shim rear. I have the flat plate bolted to the engine with stock motor mounts and I am at 3/4" to 1" set back.
Bottom line , There are a lot of factors in choosing a set of header from my experience. The 3* engine angle from the frame worked best for a lot of reasons. The engine just looked better in the engine bay at 3*. Gave better fire wall clearence than a 3.5 or more degree.
One of the down sides of the kooks was price. I too baulked at the price . I wasted a lot of time . I wish I had done the kooks first. It would have saved me 6 weeks screwing with the other headers. I did get them before the holidays thru maryland speed when they were running there specials. Saved me about $150.00.
Just wanted to share some of what I went thru in hopes of helping other swappers. Good luck
Bottom line , There are a lot of factors in choosing a set of header from my experience. The 3* engine angle from the frame worked best for a lot of reasons. The engine just looked better in the engine bay at 3*. Gave better fire wall clearence than a 3.5 or more degree.
One of the down sides of the kooks was price. I too baulked at the price . I wasted a lot of time . I wish I had done the kooks first. It would have saved me 6 weeks screwing with the other headers. I did get them before the holidays thru maryland speed when they were running there specials. Saved me about $150.00.
Just wanted to share some of what I went thru in hopes of helping other swappers. Good luck
02-09-2014, 08:15 AM
#5
^^Good info there.
I'm at about 4* down right now. I can't go up any with the current exhaust because the drivers side exhaust pipe (not the header) will hit my trans x-member. I'd like to be at 3*, so when I install the new headers, I'll have an exhaust shop rework the exhaust.
I just installed a new rear and need to get a new driveshaft made, but I'd like figure out when the new headers will want to be in reflation to the PS box. I'm using Dirty Dingo sliders, and an adjustable trans x-member so I have 2-3" of wiggle room front to back.
I'm at about 4* down right now. I can't go up any with the current exhaust because the drivers side exhaust pipe (not the header) will hit my trans x-member. I'd like to be at 3*, so when I install the new headers, I'll have an exhaust shop rework the exhaust.
I just installed a new rear and need to get a new driveshaft made, but I'd like figure out when the new headers will want to be in reflation to the PS box. I'm using Dirty Dingo sliders, and an adjustable trans x-member so I have 2-3" of wiggle room front to back.
02-10-2014, 06:35 AM
#6
67rally, The dirty dingo sliders works great for finding the front to rear position. The one thing they have is another plate in between the motor mount and the plate that attaches to the engine block. This raises the engine up . Once you find the front and back position and having trouble getting your engine angle you can change them out for a single plate style to lower the engine a little. Does not sound like much , but every little bit helps. Mine is a single plate type.
I have good clearence on my stock steering box with the kooks. Approx 5/16". I did move my engine forward to have firewall clearence and for my z-bar. I also had enough room to keep my small block heater core without any problem.
Keep in mind that the more engine angle you have the more the tube right behind the steering box moves down and forward.
I have good clearence on my stock steering box with the kooks. Approx 5/16". I did move my engine forward to have firewall clearence and for my z-bar. I also had enough room to keep my small block heater core without any problem.
Keep in mind that the more engine angle you have the more the tube right behind the steering box moves down and forward.
02-10-2014, 07:57 AM
#7
67rally, The dirty dingo sliders works great for finding the front to rear position. The one thing they have is another plate in between the motor mount and the plate that attaches to the engine block. This raises the engine up . Once you find the front and back position and having trouble getting your engine angle you can change them out for a single plate style to lower the engine a little. Does not sound like much , but every little bit helps. Mine is a single plate type.
I have good clearence on my stock steering box with the kooks. Approx 5/16". I did move my engine forward to have firewall clearence and for my z-bar. I also had enough room to keep my small block heater core without any problem.
Keep in mind that the more engine angle you have the more the tube right behind the steering box moves down and forward.
I have good clearence on my stock steering box with the kooks. Approx 5/16". I did move my engine forward to have firewall clearence and for my z-bar. I also had enough room to keep my small block heater core without any problem.
Keep in mind that the more engine angle you have the more the tube right behind the steering box moves down and forward.
However, I still think I can hit close to 3* down angle on the trans once I have my exhaust re-worked around the trans x-member. The floors were replaced in my car before I got it, and I think it bought me a little more room in the tunnel to raise the rear of the trans.
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02-10-2014, 08:10 AM
#9
Nope, not yet. I just found these over the weekend, and I'm in the research phase. I'm also still deciding between Stainless and Ceramic coated headers.
I'm also not 100% sold on the looks of the #3 tube going up and over. If it's anything like the Dynatech's (or if it's the same), there is also an issue with the #5 & #7 tubes interfering with the spark plug boots.
I'm also looking at other brands. I'd like to know more about the Dougs D3337's. And someone mentioned that Doug Thorley (different company, I know) may be making a set of LS swap headers for the first gen as well.
I'm also not 100% sold on the looks of the #3 tube going up and over. If it's anything like the Dynatech's (or if it's the same), there is also an issue with the #5 & #7 tubes interfering with the spark plug boots.
I'm also looking at other brands. I'd like to know more about the Dougs D3337's. And someone mentioned that Doug Thorley (different company, I know) may be making a set of LS swap headers for the first gen as well.
I see a day trip coming up
02-10-2014, 09:04 AM
#14
That's not too bad. I've got a friend in NH that just bought the complete Hooker/Holley setup for his '69. I don't know if he's got the headers yet. He installed the frame mounts a couple days ago. I just asked him to take a measurement of the combined height of the frame frame mounts and motor mounts.
From what I've heard, the mounts are a lot shorter than what's typically used. That's what allows them to achieve the 3* trans angle easier, but also why the old Holley pan won't work, because the engine sits lower than most swaps.
If that's the case, then the header's might actually sit too close to the floorpan when using a taller mount?
From what I've heard, the mounts are a lot shorter than what's typically used. That's what allows them to achieve the 3* trans angle easier, but also why the old Holley pan won't work, because the engine sits lower than most swaps.
If that's the case, then the header's might actually sit too close to the floorpan when using a taller mount?
02-10-2014, 09:20 AM
#15
Well I can take the measurement of the height of the mount if you want tonight. I have it installed. Your friend with the '69 has the same setup as me, as the '72 Nova uses the '69 Camaro frame.
So yeah, give me until tonight and I will take the pictures and update here.
So yeah, give me until tonight and I will take the pictures and update here.
02-10-2014, 09:22 AM
#16
Well I can take the measurement of the height of the mount if you want tonight. I have it installed. Your friend with the '69 has the same setup as me, as the '72 Nova uses the '69 Camaro frame.
So yeah, give me until tonight and I will take the pictures and update here.
So yeah, give me until tonight and I will take the pictures and update here.
