P0332 again, after new KS's and harness
#1
P0332 again, after new KS's and harness
Any ideas on what could be causing this code? It's a P0332, for rear knock sensor, low voltage. I got this after installing new Pfadt Headers and intake manifold seals.
Got around to removing the intake, and installed a new harness and two new Delco sensors. First startup and run was fine. Second startup and the CEL came back on; again, P0332.
It's ways the second startup the light and code comes back.
Is this actually detecting KNOCK, or is it a voltage issue? Everything is brand new. I'm stumped.
Got around to removing the intake, and installed a new harness and two new Delco sensors. First startup and run was fine. Second startup and the CEL came back on; again, P0332.
It's ways the second startup the light and code comes back.
Is this actually detecting KNOCK, or is it a voltage issue? Everything is brand new. I'm stumped.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes
on
70 Posts
Couple of things.
I've seen this problem before, but it wasn't my car so I never got completely to the bottom of it. Meaning you're not on your own.
Don't some of these sensors come DOA? (Dead on arrival)
They are torque sensitive, I presume you tightened them precisely?
The only way to really see what's going on in real time is to have a scanner, example HP tuners. Have you done any logging? Is the tune stock?
I've seen this problem before, but it wasn't my car so I never got completely to the bottom of it. Meaning you're not on your own.
Don't some of these sensors come DOA? (Dead on arrival)
They are torque sensitive, I presume you tightened them precisely?
The only way to really see what's going on in real time is to have a scanner, example HP tuners. Have you done any logging? Is the tune stock?
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
I agree I've had a couple sensors be DOA on arrival or go bad in a few weeks. Albeit after going to delcos I never had another issue although you could have still gotten a dud. When you pull it back off ohm check the harness to make sure its all good as well as make sure they are torqued correctly. I would put the new sensor in the front and the known good one in back that way if the code dos come back you can eliminate a few issues
#4
Couple of things. I've seen this problem before, but it wasn't my car so I never got completely to the bottom of it. Meaning you're not on your own. Don't some of these sensors come DOA? (Dead on arrival) They are torque sensitive, I presume you tightened them precisely? The only way to really see what's going on in real time is to have a scanner, example HP tuners. Have you done any logging? Is the tune stock?
Yes, I torqued them both to 15ftlbs. I've got a pocket scanner, but don't know if it will do anything real time.
The tune is from Geoff @ EPS, and the code existed then when we got on the dyno. We cleared it and it didn't come back all day, after several starts and runs.
I agree I've had a couple sensors be DOA on arrival or go bad in a few weeks. Albeit after going to delcos I never had another issue although you could have still gotten a dud. When you pull it back off ohm check the harness to make sure its all good as well as make sure they are torqued correctly. I would put the new sensor in the front and the known good one in back that way if the code dos come back you can eliminate a few issues
Stupid question... Where do I put the leads to ohm the components on the KS's?
What setting to have the multimeter on for voltage? I'd like to leave the harness plugged in and turn the cars power ON, and actually read what voltage I'm getting at the harness plug. I believe both should be 5 volts?
If I'm still getting nothing from the rear, then I'd check for power straight from the pigtail on the body harness side, to see if there's a short from the PCM to the pigtail. (After checking KS harness itself, of course)
#5
Anyway, my first thought was swap front to rear and see if the code moved to the front, but that's a lot of work removing and installing KS's, and the manifold itself just to find that out.
What ohms should I be looking for from a good, as well as bad knock sensor? What's the range?
What voltage am I looking for at the KS harness with the car on?
What voltage from the body harness side pigtail?
What ohms should I be looking for from a good, as well as bad knock sensor? What's the range?
What voltage am I looking for at the KS harness with the car on?
What voltage from the body harness side pigtail?
#6
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
Engine Off
The KS range is 93-107K ohm (good), so set you DMM to 400Kohm scale.
I also find no set voltage at all listed to check for with a P0332 in my gm service manual.
Here's another check.
Connect a DMM to the sensor side of harness and engine block. Set DMM to AC voltage.
Tap on the engine near the appropriate KS while observing for a signal indicated on the DMM. Any signal indicated on the DMM is good, otherwise the KS is bad.
Also it wouldn't hurt to check the PCM ground on the back of the heads.
The KS range is 93-107K ohm (good), so set you DMM to 400Kohm scale.
I also find no set voltage at all listed to check for with a P0332 in my gm service manual.
Here's another check.
Connect a DMM to the sensor side of harness and engine block. Set DMM to AC voltage.
Tap on the engine near the appropriate KS while observing for a signal indicated on the DMM. Any signal indicated on the DMM is good, otherwise the KS is bad.
Also it wouldn't hurt to check the PCM ground on the back of the heads.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
Some scantools show knock counts, you can tap on head or block with a wrench and watch the scantool (or DMM set to ACV as 99Bluz28 said above).
You might also want to check the subharness-to-harness connector/pins, they might be loose/damaged/corroded.
You might also want to check the subharness-to-harness connector/pins, they might be loose/damaged/corroded.
#16
I have seen the knock sensor get pinched in between the intake and the head before and cut the harness. Or sometimes it can get wrapped around the oil pressure sensor and get strained and pulled in 2. You cannot tell because the harness is covered with tape and that expanded nylon cover. Or sometimes the intake underneath can mash the wires and make them not work.