whitedevilWS6

iTrader: (10)

Ok...ever since my V **** it's diff, everything has fallen apart. Allow me to number them...

1) Rear Driver side window came off track

2) TPMS has gone crazy. One sensor reads high, one low, and one often goes blank. I filled all tires up to 33psi. No idea what's going on here.

3) I have stopped driving the car because it developed a bad shake. It is random, and seems to ease when I turn right, but worsten when I turn left. I can feel it transmit through the steering wheel when this happens. It comes and goes at random, and will advise me to service steering system, and also cuts the traction control on/off.

4) Battery not charging warning comes on randomly. Sometimes it says, "Battery Saver Active", then "Battery Voltage Low", then "Battery Not Charging." Then, miraculously, the battery voltage reads just fine when I put it on the display. Again, a random problem that is very unpredictable.

5) Cranking can be difficult. Sometimes, it will crank slowly for a few seconds, but then fire up. Now it seems to crank completely normally sometimes. This seems to be completely unrelated to the issue mentioned above. Then again, I could be wrong about that.

6) It keeps ruining spark plug wires. I replaced them with OEM replacements a short while after I got it. Now, the problem is back, stuttering and misfiring on multiple cylinders when under high load at low rpm. I'm about to get some high quality aftermarket units, and hope that shoddy construction was to blame for the failures of the last two sets.

Beyond that, I know I need to replace the motor and trans mounts. That is known, though, and the above issues have come out of left field. Also, since the diff blew up, I have a small but crazy scribbling on my right info center that won't go away. That doesn't bother me so much though.

Can anyone offer any insight as to why my once very enjoyable car is now acting like it's lost its marbles?!

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

1. Yup had that happen on a date of all times. That was awesome. It was a cold night as well so I held it up while driving awkwardly. No worries though, I got laid that night. (Ebay think I paid 36$ for a new one)

2. Not sure where you are from but if it is cold out it will do this. Also, it is an old car so the batteries in them are about due to sh*t the bed.

3. screams a wheel bearing and to replace that bad boy before tragedy happens. My guess is left front. (55$ oreilys)

4+5. I had a similar problem and it was due to my stereo wiring at the bolt under the fuse panel cover (under the hood). I removed the amp power cable and was back to normal.

6. I haven't a clue. Do you have headers? are the wires protected from them if you do?

Edit: also who did the work of the diff? What was touched? Loose battery cable?

isis

iTrader: (1)

If it's an 04/05 I'd make sure the interior light dimmer switch is slid back off of the full bright position. I had a pile of random gremlins show up after having it like that for a year. Now I know why it was set a bit dimmer when I bought the car.

May not be your problem and may not fix all but it's like 0.0005 seconds to try with zero consequences and $0.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Wow, that sounds like a nightmare.
I'd start by checking and cleaning all the grounds.
#3 does sound like a wheel bearing as mentioned above.
Good luck.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

start with a fresh battery and like stated remove,clean and add a star washer under all the grounds terminals.

gm plug wires are junk... im running the msd's and have never looked back. i had a set of taylor wires go bad after my stockers went.. msd's have been going strong for 10k with headers and no heat socks plus ive had em on and off a dozen times.

also agree with the wheel bearing going out.. easy check once jacked up. wish ya luck man the cold kills electrical components regularly

whitedevilWS6

iTrader: (10)

I appreciate the feedback, gents. This is all so strange, since I've already been through a winter prior to this one, with no adverse effects. And I do suspect that my Kooks LTs are killing the plug wires, but I'm ordering a set of MSDs tonight. After that, I'll change both wheel bearings and check the grounds, especially where the system hooks up. And I don't know what kind of battery it is, but I'll act on that as well.

Has anyone busted open a door panel to reset the window back on track?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

The window is not out of track. The cable came out and you will need a new regulator/cable system.

Spoon feed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2007-Cadillac-CTS-window-regulator-rear-LH-driver-side-NEW-/380776695115?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3ACadillac%7CModel%3ACTS&hash=item58a80f454b&vxp=mtr

whitedevilWS6

iTrader: (10)

Also, a local speed shop called CPR here in Columbia, SC did my diff swap. I wanted to do it but right now my shop resources are scarce. I don't know what all they had to do, but I don't think they do bad work.

Aaaaand now I feel stupid. Wheel bearing...duh...

whitedevilWS6

iTrader: (10)

Haha. Thank you. Though if anything, I'd prefer a bottle feed

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Those are all pretty easy fixes. I'm going through the wheel bearing issue right now myself. I will advise AGAINST the Oreilly's $55 wheel bearing though. I just ordered a Timken from rockauto for about $140 shipped. That's not a part you want to buy twice, and the lower quality bearings that I've had experience with just don't last. You should really only have to replace those ONCE during a car's lifetime.

I do know exactly how you feel about little problems piling up on you. It really ruins the experience. But that's what we get for driving 10 year old cars.