DrBlockHed

Poly mounts are be putting in by a shop, I'll be installing tsp headers and ory the following week.

I've read through a bunch of write ups including the stickies, I still have a couple of questions.

What size are the headers bolts? I looked at mine and they look fairly rusted (I'm going to hit them with Pb blaster a few times before I try to get them out) I would like to put new ones in. Should I just go with OEM?

When I install the headers with no emissions, do I need to remove the AIR? I know the egr has to go. Also is there a good writeup on removing them? I have a 2000 TA completely stock, I wouldn't mind keeping the AIR if it's possible. I haven't worked on my car before so I'm not too familiar with everything.

Last, I'm doing this on a lift, will I need to remove anything in order to install the headers, I know every install is different but it seems more issues come due to the car not being high enough.

Thanks in advance from the new guy.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

1)Bolts are 8mmx1.25-30mm long. 2) I have used OEM on all 4 of my header installs on f bodys with no problems. 3) I would remove the air and egr crap totally when headers go in. BTW, I noticed you said poly mounts are going in by a shop. To my knowledge you have to remove exhaust mani's and ypipe to do this. Why not just let the shop install the headers instead of paying them to reinstall the exhaust manis and ypipe after the poly mm's are installed? I would think it should take about the same ammount of time and cost.

DrBlockHed

Good question about the mms, I called and asked them this, twice.... He said witth the stock manis they can do it no problem. They're charging 200 for mounts, 700 for headers.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

I use stage 8 headers bolts with locks, never have to worry about header bolts coming loose!

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Not doubting them, but Id love to see how. I do, however, remove the entire sedestal and mount in one piece so I dont have to drop the alt or a/c compressor. That may be why I cant see it happening with factory mani's in there.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Not a bad idea at all and piece of mind goes a long way. I have owned 4 fbodys all with different style headers that I installed and used factory bolts. I used silver antisieze and never had a bolt come loose or a factory style exhaust gasket blow. Some of them were driven over 100,000 miles after the install also. My last one had 230,000 on the factory gaskets and bolts. , No really.

DrBlockHed

I'm going to bring my headers just in case..... If they are going to remove them, might as well put the new ones in, I don't want to be on the hook for extra labor with stock manis back in.

maroonls1z

A lot of people have to move the steering column to get proper clearance, a lot regular exhaust shops don't know how to do this or to do this

DrBlockHed

There heavy into ls engines, but mainly vettes. They have experience with f bodies but it seems a little limited.

maroonls1z

Well look I to how to adjust the steering column just in case and you can either tell them or do it yourself

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

If you can install headers yourself, then I'm confident you could also do your motor mounts. It just seems like a waste of money to pay someone if you're doing some work yourself. It's literally just 18 more bolts to remove (6 for the A/C; 3 for alternator; 1 each mount to pedestal; 4 each mount to block). Drill the rivets out of mount clamshells, put new mounts in, bolt together with the new bolts that come with the mounts, and then you simply reverse the install steps. The only thing you'll do extra is get your factory jack to help align the passenger side mount bolt.

As for the header bolts, you can make life a lot easier (and quicker) with header studs. Just check out eBay for stainless header studs (they're like $30) unless you want to spend $100 for ARP. You put the studs in the heads, hang the gasket, slide the header on the studs, then install the nuts. No fighting to thread bolts into the header flange while holding it up there (this is especially helpful for those rear bolts!) -- it just goes right on and you can quickly move on to finish the job.

One can simply just remove the steering shaft. It's just two bolts. Nothing else is necessary.

DrBlockHed

Will these suffice for the header studs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-Header-Stud-Kit-Stainless-Steel-Set-Small-Block-Chevy-V8-283-327-350-400-GM-/281229958630?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417a9c9de6&vxp=mtr
The reason I'm having a shop do it is two fold, my friend with a lift is hard to get to commit to a day, so if I have to do both I fear my car may get stuck there.

Second, I'm not enamored with the idea of having my engine unbolted from the car. I feel something can go really wrong.

What's a realistic time frame to complete both in a given day?

Thanks

maroonls1z

I meant adjusting the shaft to go around the headers and provide proper clearance. I adjusted with the 2 bolts and wasn't able to be enough room so you have to go inside the car and use the 3 bolts that attach the steering column to the firewall

LS1WS6dreamer

iTrader: (1)

I ordered new header bolts from GM dealership. They were only like $5 for all of them. I have had no problems with them backing out. I used my original gaskets and no problems there either. I removed both EGR and AIR. Not sure why you would want to keep your AIR. Are you not going with a catless Y-pipe?

DrBlockHed

Doesn't it help get the car to temp faster? I'm not totally adverse to removing them both, just thought the air was useful.

I also am having trouble finding a good writeup, what do I need? Just a plug for the lid? I'm going ory.

Btw, u have a part number? I have 11518860

Thanks

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Air injection is for emissions purposes to help get the cats to light off quicker. Does not do anything for engine warm up times. You can do both mounts and headers in a day but you will have to not run into many problems and it is a job. Having someone to help will cut down on install time. I always end up doing the job by myself due to work schedules or something like that.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

That's a good part #, its what I just used on my install.

DrBlockHed

Right now I have 3 guys including myself that will be there, so I'm hoping it won't be a nightmare. I'm going to Pb blaster everything like a week I. Advance 2-3 times to help break everything free. But as I've been told many times always expect something to go wrong.

With no emissions on my headers and ory, I won't require any block off plates, is that right? All I need is a 1 3/8 freezer plug for the lid to plug the hole for the AIR?

Also, removing AIR/EGR, is it fairly easy?

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Take a look at my build thread. I break down my install a bit along with links to the threads that helped me.

I did mine on jack stands (even the motor mounts). Really, the engine won't go anywhere I just helped a friend do the same on his car last weekend. It took 8 hours using a lift.

DrBlockHed

So I brought my car to a shop to have the mounts done, knowing it would take a lot longer than the 2 hours they quoted me. I also brought my lts and ory in case they had to remove the exhaust manifold to get to the mounts, which was the case.

I wound up just having them do the entire install, yeah it cost me a few bucks, but it's all done, looks great, runs strong and sounds sick.

I only wish I did this 7 years ago when I bought the car...

So in the end it has tsp lts, ory, poly mounts, 160 t stat and air/egr delete with a mail order tune.

Next up... Sways, konis and stranos

Thanks for everyone's input