4L80E / Transgo HD2 guys, what did you drill to?
03-04-2014, 11:07 PM
#1
4L80E / Transgo HD2 guys, what did you drill to? I drilled my holes to the recommended sizes, but have been thinking about going bigger for better holding capacity.
You guys that have installed 4L80E in your car with a transgo HD2, what did you drill out your passages to? I've talked to a few guys that said they always drilled out to .120 and that the shifts were a little harsh, but I've seen videos of them cruising and the shifts weren't even noticeable and they talked about how well mannered it was on the street.
Just looking for some first hand experiences. Don't want to drill mine out too large and then have someone spill a drink all over the car while we're just cruising, but I'm worried about holding capacity with a turbo 5.3.
You guys that have installed 4L80E in your car with a transgo HD2, what did you drill out your passages to? I've talked to a few guys that said they always drilled out to .120 and that the shifts were a little harsh, but I've seen videos of them cruising and the shifts weren't even noticeable and they talked about how well mannered it was on the street.
Just looking for some first hand experiences. Don't want to drill mine out too large and then have someone spill a drink all over the car while we're just cruising, but I'm worried about holding capacity with a turbo 5.3.
03-04-2014, 11:17 PM
#2
.108-.125 for the 2nd feed, don't drill 3rd, just leave the checkball out at that location, and .125 for 4th feed.
I prefer to eliminate the accumulator housing and change the sizing a bit, but that's why I make my own VB kit
The TG HD2 is OK (best thing going without taking trans apart for mods) but has it's limits, a turbo 5.3 will eventually find them if turned up enough.
I prefer to eliminate the accumulator housing and change the sizing a bit, but that's why I make my own VB kit
The TG HD2 is OK (best thing going without taking trans apart for mods) but has it's limits, a turbo 5.3 will eventually find them if turned up enough.
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Peasss (08-11-2022)
03-04-2014, 11:25 PM
#3
How is driveability going to be at .125 for 2nd and no checkball for third? I figured it would just be easier to drill out 2nd and 4th to the same size and I have a few 1/8" drill bits in the garage.
I know that the HD2 is only OK, but I'm just worried about getting the car running and racing for the time being. I'll be happy with mid 10s and ~600 flywheel HP. Forged motor, bigger turbo, and stronger trans all come next year (especially if I decide to go ahead and race X235), and that's when I'll be giving you guys a call for a trans.
I know that the HD2 is only OK, but I'm just worried about getting the car running and racing for the time being. I'll be happy with mid 10s and ~600 flywheel HP. Forged motor, bigger turbo, and stronger trans all come next year (especially if I decide to go ahead and race X235), and that's when I'll be giving you guys a call for a trans.
Last edited by HexenLord; 03-04-2014 at 11:37 PM.
03-04-2014, 11:57 PM
#4
Shift quality is a bit subjective.
Each persons tastes are different and what may be perfect for one person is way to harsh for another.
It also varies depending on other variables. Converter stall makes a big difference in the shift quality. Vehicle weight, rear diff ratio, tire size, and may other factors affect it.
A trans that would shift brutally hard with a stock converter, would be soft shifting with a 4400 stall.
The orifice sizing I gave you is based on a lot of experience and testing. It's also a "safe" calibration that won't break parts. With a stock converter, and heavy throttle (or increased line pressure) it will be VERY firm. With a typical street/strip converter 2800-3600 stall it will be a firm shift but not hard.
The TransGo kit needs all the help it can get for the 3rd gear circuit, leave the checkball out. It's the very "center" one in the case. It will make 3rd as firm as it can get. DOn't do this with a stock converter or a towing application but for any performance application, toss it.
Each persons tastes are different and what may be perfect for one person is way to harsh for another.
It also varies depending on other variables. Converter stall makes a big difference in the shift quality. Vehicle weight, rear diff ratio, tire size, and may other factors affect it.
A trans that would shift brutally hard with a stock converter, would be soft shifting with a 4400 stall.
The orifice sizing I gave you is based on a lot of experience and testing. It's also a "safe" calibration that won't break parts. With a stock converter, and heavy throttle (or increased line pressure) it will be VERY firm. With a typical street/strip converter 2800-3600 stall it will be a firm shift but not hard.
The TransGo kit needs all the help it can get for the 3rd gear circuit, leave the checkball out. It's the very "center" one in the case. It will make 3rd as firm as it can get. DOn't do this with a stock converter or a towing application but for any performance application, toss it.
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Peasss (08-11-2022)
03-07-2014, 06:42 AM
#5
I drilled my 2nd gear shift to .095, the other 2 to .120. I remember Jake saying something about not going to crazy with the 2nd gear shift to keep the sprag alive. I haven't been able to run it through the gears on the street yet though do to the craptastic weather around here.
03-07-2014, 04:18 PM
#6
I went .87 for 2nd, 1.00 for 3rd and .96 for 4th on an otherwise stock 80e and stock converter. The 1-2 hit surprisingly hard, the 2-3 was so-so and the 3-4 was pretty good. I changed the converter to a 3000 stall FTI 10.5" and the shifts all felt super soft.
I ended up rebuilding the trans, removing the HD2 separator plate, dual feeding the direct clutches internally and installed one of Jake's plates. It's back to firm shifting again with the new converter and feels great. Leaving the 3rd feed check ball out was the key to getting the 2-3 to feel good. The advice Jake gave you in the 2nd post is golden.
Also, the partial throttle stuff is all controlled in the tune. Mine feels like stock when just cruising around. I wouldn't be too concerned about spilling your coffee unless you've got your foot into it.
I ended up rebuilding the trans, removing the HD2 separator plate, dual feeding the direct clutches internally and installed one of Jake's plates. It's back to firm shifting again with the new converter and feels great. Leaving the 3rd feed check ball out was the key to getting the 2-3 to feel good. The advice Jake gave you in the 2nd post is golden.
Also, the partial throttle stuff is all controlled in the tune. Mine feels like stock when just cruising around. I wouldn't be too concerned about spilling your coffee unless you've got your foot into it.
04-20-2015, 03:58 PM
#7
.108-.125 for the 2nd feed, don't drill 3rd, just leave the checkball out at that location, and .125 for 4th feed.
I prefer to eliminate the accumulator housing and change the sizing a bit, but that's why I make my own VB kit
The TG HD2 is OK (best thing going without taking trans apart for mods) but has it's limits, a turbo 5.3 will eventually find them if turned up enough.
I prefer to eliminate the accumulator housing and change the sizing a bit, but that's why I make my own VB kit
The TG HD2 is OK (best thing going without taking trans apart for mods) but has it's limits, a turbo 5.3 will eventually find them if turned up enough.
