xFormulax

My car keeps throwing driver side 02 sensors like crazy... This has to be the 3rd time it happened...
My car, 98 Firebird Formula, has Texas Speed long tube headers and their ORY pipe. Also upgraded to the ls6 intake. I'm running the Bosch 13111 corvette 02 sensors.

Got it tuned recently at Speed Inc. At the time of the tune they told me that my driver side 02 was out and that as soon as I replace it I should be good with the check engine light.

Went home replaced 02 sensor, got the light turned off, and I was good to go for about a week. It went out again.

So this time I replaced my plugs with new ones thinking since I ran for awhile without a tune my plugs were bad and weren't burning the fuel and fouling the sensor.

Replaced plugs and both sensors and this is the longest they lasted so far.

Tonight I had to accelerate fast to make the turn onto the street, and I was on the gas (not even close to WoT) and off it real quick. As soon as I got off the gas my rpms dropped low and my check engine light came back on. I didn't have the chance to scan it since the parts stores are closed but its acting the same as when my other 02s were bad.

I can't keep replacing the 02 sensors. It has to be something else thats wrong and I really don't think it was the tune because it was just their street tune... I need some help because I'm getting bummed every time this happens.

xFormulax

Thinking maybe MAF. I cleaned it but some guy I work with says it sounds like the MAF. Idk why he is saying that. Anyone????

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Has any RTV sealant been used on your engine? If so, can you confirm that its sensor safe and won't foul O2 sensors?

What type of error codes are you getting. Are they all for a lean condition?

xFormulax

No, I haven't used any RTV on my engine.

I wasn't able to pull the codes yesterday, on my way to the part store and I will update after.

xFormulax

The code was a P0131
P0131 - 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor I)

This was the code happening both times before.

Surprisingly, the car seemed to be running a lot better. So I turned the codes off and they came back on while driving back home. O well.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Try a Denso sensor. #2344-617. 44" long wire.

2344-025. 16" long wire if you have 02 extensions.

If its not a good fix to the problem.......your PCM might be taking a ****.......or you need to try to track down a frayed or ripped wire or a bad plug housing.

You could also pop the two tops off your PCM and check to see if all the pins look perfect and no burnt pins.

.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Make sure you have no exhaust leaks, make sure there is no wire fraying checking the wires up the drivers side coming back up past the starter to make sure everything is correct.


Otherwise keep your receipts handy and keep swapping them out at the parts stores lol

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You might also (with the use of anti-seize compound) switch your left and right side sensors and see if the problem moves with the switch. If so, then the sensors are getting fouled. If not, then it would point to an electrical/other issue.

xFormulax

Thanks for the reply's guys. I think I narrowed it down to a small exhaust leak on my driver side Y pipe. I will have my car on a lift Saturday to install a new catback and suspension, so I will make sure all the clamps are tight and everything is sealing. I will also be taking a look at the wire and PCM to make sure nothing is wrong with them.

I work at Oreilly's, part time so this is what I have been doing. They just get fed up with me swapping them out so much.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Are yo sure the sensors are "bad". When I had an exhaust leak at the flange it wouldnt show up until the car was warm and the cold air would work back to the sensors and throw a code

calgary_z28

I've had P0 131 ever since I switched the stock manifolds/y pipe for Pacesetter long tubes and TSP ORY. Coming up on 2 years now. I replaced the O2 sensor with a brand new NTK O2 (longer corvette O2 sensor that eliminates the need for O2 extensions) and P0 131 was back after a couple of drive cycles. Replacing the sensor had zero effect on clearing the code for me. I've never had any drivability or fuel economy concerns as a result of this code.

It's annoying, but I think it's very common with long tubes. From what I understand, the code is thrown because the O2 sensor is moved further downstream and thus, doesn't get as hot as the PCM thinks it should.

From what I've picked up on here, the only real "fix" is to either have your tuner eliminate that code or increase the delay time which the PCM measures before throwing it.

For me, a piece of electrical tape and a cheap code reader in my glove box does the trick. I can check for other codes and clear it as needed.

xFormulax

UPDATE:
Had my car on the lift for my suspension and new catback install.
Redid all the pipes that make up the Y and connected the new catback up.
Hit all the exhaust clamps with my friends powerful impact gun.
Started the car up and plugged the back exhaust pipes up and listened for hissing.
Found a couple of spots and since neither of us knew how to weld stainless we used very little amounts of exhaust concrete to plug the leaks.
No more leaks and I havent seen the code since.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Glad you got it resolved.

Calgary Z I have pace setter long tubes and I don't have any engine codes. Might want to double check your gaskets and fittings. I tend to blow through the lifetime metal gaskets once a year. Like mentioned make sure everything is tight, I also use red gasket seal on them

calgary_z28

I could double check again I suppose, but the clamps were nice and tight last time I checked, plus my ORY is welded to the catback. My header gaskets were also brand new GM. That is surprising though, I thought the general consensus on tech was that slow O2 response codes were very common with long tubes?