98Z28NMB21

OK, so for starters I know there's gonna be a bunch of people on here that say it cant be done. So for starters Im running a G5x3 cam with intake and all supporting mods except heads at this point. I also do not have the cash to drop on a new rear and im wanting any and all ideas or past experience on how to help save my 10 bolt. Im not looking to ''Bulletproof'' it I just want to know what can be done that actually helps this things out under stress and the do's and donts. My car is a 6 speed as well and know that the T56 isn't exactly known for being easy on the rear ends. Thanks.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I run a Detroit Trutrack in mine

98Z28NMB21

Is that all you've got in it? and if so how dose it hold up to Stress?

alexus6798

iTrader: (24)

Best thing for now is keep street tires on it and nothing to sticky.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

275 street tires, nothing too soft. Basically if you dump the clutch, you want it to spin easily, putting less pressure on the rear end.

Thats what I have done and so far no major failures.

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

I put 4.10s in my old 7.5 with a TA girdle cover and never had any issues out of it when I had the t56 in my car. I ran Hoosier QTPs and then switched to 325/50 M/T ET Streets. The guy I sold it to just put a new pinion seal in it but has been driving with it with zero issues.

I never cut any 1.5X or stronger short times but LOTS of 1.7Xs and lots of street passes. As long as you don't side step the clutch on a prepped surface you should be fine.... just preload it a little and let her rip. That has been my experience.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

The best thing you can do is to just be aware that it is a weak point and treat it as such. If you dump the clutch all the time, it's not going to hold up.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Yes pretty much. I make about 550 rwhp/rwtq with drag radials, 4.10 gear, 6-speed, and so far so good loland a

duh

iTrader: (16)

I had the same idea. I did a lot of searching for parts and ideas. I also came up with a $1200 price tag. That included studding everything I could, the LPW back brace (which I bought, but not the cover or installed), and the trutrac and axles. I also decided it would be money better spent to just jump to a 9" that will last a lot longer and require less money to upgrade down the road. If you really want to make a 10 bolt last, it's going to take $1200 before any labor. If you're curious you can pm me and I can detail everything for you.

98Z28NMB21

Wow thanks guys, Im buying another 7.5 with 3.90s in it with a girdle, I hear that Girdles help a little.

98CayenneT/A

I have 3.73 with a girdle and many dead hook street launches on drag radials with no problems, but I'm also a auto but know it will eventually go kaboom clunk

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

If doing the LPW cover with braces, I'd also suggest welding the axle tubes into the housing. Might as well throw new seals and bearings in there while you're at it.

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

If you are good at welding you can fully weld the axle tubes to the center section, put on a rear girdle cover and maybe some moser 28 spline axles

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

I had a mac cover, solid pinion spacer, welded tubes with my motive 4.10s. Quiet as a mouse after install. First launch at the track (1.8 60') and it started whining again and I'm only 400whp/tq.

If you can't afford a new rear end be gentle and just fix what breaks with stock parts till you can upgrade.

Don't look through these replies with focusing on the small glimmers of hope and ignore the many that have gone through this telling you it's a waste. They suck, they suck and they suck some more for drag racing, but hey it's your money and it's your mistake to make.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

This is the absolute truth.

arock24

iTrader: (4)

Truth. I threw a T/A cover on it, and leave street tires on. Still running strong with 123k on it. Granted, I have an auto, but it's all about your driving style. I will be eventually going with the s60 in a couple years, but for now I can't afford it.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

solid pinion spacer, TA cover and a decent aftermarket tq arm is a good start

the thing that really kills these rearends in a stick car is the wheel hop.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

Fixed that for ya.

ND2RACE

So far the best advice in this thread is to avoid sticky tires, and wheel hop. I have broken and rebuilt a few 10 bolts, everything inside them is just too small to take a lot of abuse. Plus the bigger the ratio the smaller the pinion gear gets, all that ever happens when trying to go fast is that they break. So if you want it to last don't try to go fast.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Don't look through these replies with focusing on the small glimmers of hope and ignore the many that have gone through this telling you it's a waste. They suck, they suck and they suck some more for drag racing, but hey it's your money and it's your mistake to make.[/QUOTE]

Truth. Stick to roll races and never launch it hard. Start saving up you can do a 9" for under 2K if you are thrifty. Get the housing and axle shaft kit from here and then go hit a pick n pull for a 3rd member and posi unit.