Which bushing/mounts to inspect?
03-21-2014, 10:03 AM
#1
Which bushing/mounts to inspect? Hey guys. I just got my 2005 CTS-V 2 weeks ago and have been reading up on the forums. Which bushings/mounts should I inspect first? Which ones are the first to fail and what do I need to look for?
At the present, I have a slight clunkish type of sound when I disengage the clutch between the 1-2 and 2-3 shift (probably have it during the other shifts, but at those speeds it's just not as noticeable).
I have also noticed the engine comes to a kind of rumbley/shakey stop when turning the car off. Not terrible, but it's there. I assume this is a motor mount issue.
Other than those 2 symptoms, the car seems pretty solid. No real vibration or anything while driving. The car is a 1-owner car with 42k miles.
Thanks in advance.
At the present, I have a slight clunkish type of sound when I disengage the clutch between the 1-2 and 2-3 shift (probably have it during the other shifts, but at those speeds it's just not as noticeable).
I have also noticed the engine comes to a kind of rumbley/shakey stop when turning the car off. Not terrible, but it's there. I assume this is a motor mount issue.
Other than those 2 symptoms, the car seems pretty solid. No real vibration or anything while driving. The car is a 1-owner car with 42k miles.
Thanks in advance.
03-21-2014, 10:18 AM
#2
You sir, need a new clutch. Get rid of that dual mass POS. Also, the diff bushing is first to go. But I would just start replacing all bushing. They are cheap enough and make a world of difference. Only problem is the PITA install process for some. Good luck!
03-21-2014, 10:38 AM
#3
You definitely don't NEED a clutch at 42k, but the motor mounts are probably contributing the the shaking on shutdown. Check them for any fluid on them. When they fail, they crack and leak the fluid out. Sometimes it's hard to spot--be thorough. While the dual mass flywheel may make some noise, it and the clutch will likely last until ~100k.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
03-21-2014, 11:19 AM
#4
You definitely don't NEED a clutch at 42k, but the motor mounts are probably contributing the the shaking on shutdown. Check them for any fluid on them. When they fail, they crack and leak the fluid out. Sometimes it's hard to spot--be thorough. While the dual mass flywheel may make some noise, it and the clutch will likely last until ~100k.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
03-21-2014, 11:41 AM
#5
Engine mounts and differential front bushing at least. I replaced both of those as soon as I bought mine and it made a massive difference.
It seems the feedback on cradle bushings is stellar so far, control arm bushings are receiving positive reviews sans complaints of squeaking, but I have experience with neither of those so I can't speak authoritatively.
Ask me again in a couple months when I get around to installing my cradle/CA bushings.
ETA: I added the Revshift insert in my factory transmission mount, it fixed 1st to 2nd and helped locating reverse substantially.
It seems the feedback on cradle bushings is stellar so far, control arm bushings are receiving positive reviews sans complaints of squeaking, but I have experience with neither of those so I can't speak authoritatively.
Ask me again in a couple months when I get around to installing my cradle/CA bushings.
ETA: I added the Revshift insert in my factory transmission mount, it fixed 1st to 2nd and helped locating reverse substantially.
03-21-2014, 11:43 AM
#6
You definitely don't NEED a clutch at 42k, but the motor mounts are probably contributing the the shaking on shutdown. Check them for any fluid on them. When they fail, they crack and leak the fluid out. Sometimes it's hard to spot--be thorough. While the dual mass flywheel may make some noise, it and the clutch will likely last until ~100k.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
You should replace the rear diff bushing and add the bracing block from creative steel. It's the first thing I did when I got mine and made a world of difference.
If your shifter is still stock, I would also look into upgrading that too. It will make your driving experience much better.
The shut down vib is def MM though OP.
