amp install
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
amp install
i plan on adding some bass to the ride, but want to keep the factory bose system. so far i know im going to use the wires from the factory subwoofer and either connect them to an amp with high inputs or convert them into rca's, but i want to know how/what you guys used to run power and the remote wire?
any help is greatly appreciated!
any help is greatly appreciated!
#2
Your efforts will be rewarded by out-of-sync audio, due to signal processing delays associated with adding a line-out converter (LOC) and subwoofer amplifier to the stock system.
If you really want to do this right, and don't want to remove the stock head unit, consider a signal integrator--either build your own from rack-mount components or buy a JBL MS-8.
If you really want to do this right, and don't want to remove the stock head unit, consider a signal integrator--either build your own from rack-mount components or buy a JBL MS-8.
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your efforts will be rewarded by out-of-sync audio, due to signal processing delays associated with adding a line-out converter (LOC) and subwoofer amplifier to the stock system.
If you really want to do this right, and don't want to remove the stock head unit, consider a signal integrator--either build your own from rack-mount components or buy a JBL MS-8.
If you really want to do this right, and don't want to remove the stock head unit, consider a signal integrator--either build your own from rack-mount components or buy a JBL MS-8.
And would something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002J...I31U1BUF6G33NM even cause that bad of a delay in audio?
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I just had a powered sub with a line out converter installed and I don't notice the delay much. I really just needed some bass in my life. Replaced the front door speakers with Infinity Kappas. I'm easy to please when it comes to audio, though, so if you want sound quality, you will have to spend the money and take the time.
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just had a powered sub with a line out converter installed and I don't notice the delay much. I really just needed some bass in my life. Replaced the front door speakers with Infinity Kappas. I'm easy to please when it comes to audio, though, so if you want sound quality, you will have to spend the money and take the time.
#7
A DIY rack system will cost you a couple of thousand dollars, but the quality is incomparable due to superior amplification and computer-based EQ tools.
I've already been through the Infinity Kappas and the difference wasn't meaningful. Installing better speakers don't help if the amplifier is only sending a sliver of the audio spectrum to each speaker. Those paper Bose speakers have a miserable frequency range and the stock amplifier is set up to support that.
The classic Navone LOC/Boss R1100M/Infinity 1062w upgrade *will* quintuple your bass output, but it may drop you into a spiral of acoustic upgrade doom.
Whether it will or won't largely depends on your musical acumen and the type of music you listen to. Some types of music really bring out the lack of synchronization.
If you want to do this upgrade well, start with the ideas on this list:
I've already been through the Infinity Kappas and the difference wasn't meaningful. Installing better speakers don't help if the amplifier is only sending a sliver of the audio spectrum to each speaker. Those paper Bose speakers have a miserable frequency range and the stock amplifier is set up to support that.
The classic Navone LOC/Boss R1100M/Infinity 1062w upgrade *will* quintuple your bass output, but it may drop you into a spiral of acoustic upgrade doom.
Whether it will or won't largely depends on your musical acumen and the type of music you listen to. Some types of music really bring out the lack of synchronization.
If you want to do this upgrade well, start with the ideas on this list:
- Eliminate distortion and resonance caused by the hard cavity behind all four doors using one layer of b-Quiet Ultimate and Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro. You can also use b-Quiet to eliminate that annoying rattle from the door lock mechanism when you hit bumps and the squeaking when you press on the door sill.
- Hertz 6.5" ESK 165L.5 speakers in all four doors (the 5.25" rear door mounting points require some minor modifications)--you'll also be able to use the 1" tweeters to replace the paper tweeters in the A-pillars.
- Remove the entire rear plastic and lay down two layers of b-Quiet and one layer of Luxury Liner Pro.
- Image Dynamics ID10D4 v.3 (10") open-air subwoofer with a stepped 10" MDF ring and M6x1.0-35mm hex cap screws and serrated M6 nuts.
- Signal integrator and subwoofer amplifier of choice under the rear deck.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-24-2014 at 09:12 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
I too am running an LOC to a JBL1200.1 and IDQ15 and it sounds great with stock bose components elsewhere. The bose isn't the best and not at the levels of my previous cars but it's just not worth it to me in this car since I want to keep the OEM head unit/DIC.
Some of the best speakers of all time use paper elements...
Some of the best speakers of all time use paper elements...
#10
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Excuse my ignorance. I'm far from an audiophile, but have been wanting to liven things up with the factory system in my V.
My goal was to drop no more than $500 while keeping the factory head unit. I googled the JBL MS-8, but looks like overkill for my needs. Would a cleansweep work? Also can someone link me to the "LOC"?
I was hoping to buy a little better amp, door speakers, and replace the sub in the rear deck.
My goal was to drop no more than $500 while keeping the factory head unit. I googled the JBL MS-8, but looks like overkill for my needs. Would a cleansweep work? Also can someone link me to the "LOC"?
I was hoping to buy a little better amp, door speakers, and replace the sub in the rear deck.
#11
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA, Planet Earth
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A DIY rack system will cost you a couple of thousand dollars, but the quality is incomparable due to superior amplification and computer-based EQ tools.
I've already been through the Infinity Kappas and the difference wasn't meaningful. Installing better speakers don't help if the amplifier is only sending a sliver of the audio spectrum to each speaker. Those paper Bose speakers have a miserable frequency range and the stock amplifier is set up to support that.
The classic Navone LOC/Boss R1100M/Infinity 1062w upgrade *will* quintuple your bass output, but it may drop you into a spiral of acoustic upgrade doom.
Whether it will or won't largely depends on your musical acumen and the type of music you listen to. Some types of music really bring out the lack of synchronization.
If you want to do this upgrade well, start with the ideas on this list:
I've already been through the Infinity Kappas and the difference wasn't meaningful. Installing better speakers don't help if the amplifier is only sending a sliver of the audio spectrum to each speaker. Those paper Bose speakers have a miserable frequency range and the stock amplifier is set up to support that.
The classic Navone LOC/Boss R1100M/Infinity 1062w upgrade *will* quintuple your bass output, but it may drop you into a spiral of acoustic upgrade doom.
Whether it will or won't largely depends on your musical acumen and the type of music you listen to. Some types of music really bring out the lack of synchronization.
If you want to do this upgrade well, start with the ideas on this list:
- Eliminate distortion and resonance caused by the hard cavity behind all four doors using one layer of b-Quiet Ultimate and Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro. You can also use b-Quiet to eliminate that annoying rattle from the door lock mechanism when you hit bumps and the squeaking when you press on the door sill.
- Hertz 6.5" ESK 165L.5 speakers in all four doors (the 5.25" rear door mounting points require some minor modifications)--you'll also be able to use the 1" tweeters to replace the paper tweeters in the A-pillars.
- Remove the entire rear plastic and lay down two layers of b-Quiet and one layer of Luxury Liner Pro.
- Image Dynamics ID10D4 v.3 (10") open-air subwoofer with a stepped 10" MDF ring and M6x1.0-35mm hex cap screws and serrated M6 nuts.
- Signal integrator and subwoofer amplifier of choice under the rear deck.
so for power wire, do i just do the typical "from the battery, thru the firewall, all the way back to the trunk) setup? or is there a place closer to the trunk that i can get power from for an amp? and where are you guys tapping into for the remote wire if im not using an aftermarket deck?
Last edited by MarkOne; 03-24-2014 at 10:24 PM.
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Wow, this got a little complicated.
I added a pioneer amp with a high level input directly from the sub speaker wire and have not noticed any delay. It's far from a great setup, but if you're keeping the rest of the bose equipment there's no point in dropping a bunch of $$$$ on the sub setup.
Fuzzy, I see where you're going with this, but you should really try to align your advise with people's goals.
I added a pioneer amp with a high level input directly from the sub speaker wire and have not noticed any delay. It's far from a great setup, but if you're keeping the rest of the bose equipment there's no point in dropping a bunch of $$$$ on the sub setup.
Fuzzy, I see where you're going with this, but you should really try to align your advise with people's goals.
#13
Excuse my ignorance. I'm far from an audiophile, but have been wanting to liven things up with the factory system in my V.
My goal was to drop no more than $500 while keeping the factory head unit. I googled the JBL MS-8, but looks like overkill for my needs. Would a cleansweep work? Also can someone link me to the "LOC"?
I was hoping to buy a little better amp, door speakers, and replace the sub in the rear deck.
My goal was to drop no more than $500 while keeping the factory head unit. I googled the JBL MS-8, but looks like overkill for my needs. Would a cleansweep work? Also can someone link me to the "LOC"?
I was hoping to buy a little better amp, door speakers, and replace the sub in the rear deck.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
The claim of "out of sync" is total horse ****.
Some people need to study audio processing for ***** sake.
As said, you can very easily supplement the bass by adding an amplifier.
Make sure the amp will accommodate a "high level" (speaker level) input.
The only thing that can get "out of sync" is your sub-speaker phasing, but you can cure that (if it is a problem) by reversing the leads.
Some people need to study audio processing for ***** sake.
As said, you can very easily supplement the bass by adding an amplifier.
Make sure the amp will accommodate a "high level" (speaker level) input.
The only thing that can get "out of sync" is your sub-speaker phasing, but you can cure that (if it is a problem) by reversing the leads.
#15
The Cleansweep will work, but it's inferior to the JBL MS-8. If you're on a budget, you can find both used on eBay for a good price. I bought my MS-8 for $350 from a guy that was selling his Porsche.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-25-2014 at 12:01 PM.
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Here is a pic of my sub replacement and the amplifier mounting to drive it.
A BAJA 700 and a Infinity sub (no longer available).
Stay away from LOC's (major distortion).
Pm me for wiring and more pics.
If you want to go to the extreme, check out what I did to my radio/nav
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/153699-a-macd-v.html
A BAJA 700 and a Infinity sub (no longer available).
Stay away from LOC's (major distortion).
Pm me for wiring and more pics.
If you want to go to the extreme, check out what I did to my radio/nav
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/153699-a-macd-v.html
Last edited by heavymetals; 03-25-2014 at 12:08 PM.
#17
Your opinions are almost entirely comprised of FOD, across this entire platform. You're talking to someone that specializes in DSP and FPGA design. My older system had enough of a time delay between the subwoofer and the seven other speakers where the bass hits were arriving halfway between where the beats were supposed to land.
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Your opinions are totally worthless, across this entire platform. You're talking to someone that specializes in DSP and FPGA design. My older system had enough of a time delay between the subwoofer and the seven other speakers where the bass hits were arriving halfway between where the beats were supposed to land.
Adding an amplifier will introduce no delay in the audio signal.
Go ahead and insult me, it doesn't make you smarter or right.
hint: One is called "latency" and the other is "slew rate".
Last edited by heavymetals; 03-25-2014 at 12:43 PM.
#19
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Here is a pic of my sub replacement and the amplifier mounting to drive it.
A BAJA 700 and a Infinity sub (no longer available).
Stay away from LOC's (major distortion).
Pm me for wiring and more pics.
If you want to go to the extreme, check out what I did to my radio/nav
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/153699-a-macd-v.html
FRANKENRADIO1 - YouTube
A BAJA 700 and a Infinity sub (no longer available).
Stay away from LOC's (major distortion).
Pm me for wiring and more pics.
If you want to go to the extreme, check out what I did to my radio/nav
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/153699-a-macd-v.html
FRANKENRADIO1 - YouTube