fordkilla2000

Ok I've read multiple forums and researched all over websites and still haven't gotten an answer that satisfies me. I'm absolutely going FI and want to know the hp differences.

I know the p1 has a 5 or 7 psi pulley and works great at low rpm and is said to fall off towards high rpm, D1 from around mid range through high rpms. Single turbo will have lag then boost like crazy, TT almost completely voids lag and is a monster.
The problem I have with TT is boosting to launch and bouncing while running no line lock.
My real question is, I have a decent built ls1 top end. 228R cam, Manley valves and push rods , Dantadoff dual valve springs, Jackson timing etc.. With that in mind I'm switching to ls6 intake 60LB injectors walbro fuel pump etc.. what is the most hp fi setup while still engine friendly til I build another specifically for insane boost?

willizm

iTrader: (10)

With the way modern turbo's are the argument of crazy lag and then it hits is minimized especially when you size the turbo to the motor properly. A PT7675 for instance has great spool on a 5.7-6.0. In terms of whether or not to go SC or Turbo consider that it's pretty common for folks to ditch the SC for the turbo but not so much the other way around. If you want a turbo, then don't settle on a supercharger because you'll be going turbo eventually. With that said a D1 is still plenty potent but it's all down to personal preference.

Also, you can control boost pretty easily with a turbo so if you put a 6psi spring in and want to run that until you reassess your motor then that can be done pretty easily without sacrificing your setup. Although I suppose the same could be said for a SC pulley. I am biased toward turbo's though.

yenkomike

iTrader: (2)

the p1sc and d1sc are good units but i dont think they are made for long term high milage use i have seen some last a long time and some need freshened at 5-6000 miles if used harder. the old d1 oil fed units are strong and hold up well and will make good power but they are older and run a lower gearcase . and are louder than hell. a good turbo will last a long time and be quieter down the road. jmho.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I will kindly disagree with everything you've said other than the quieter statement. Changed the oil in the blower every 7-10k miles, don't overspin them and they will last with no issues at all.

Original poster, I'm not exactly sure what you're looking for. You have a stock motor, so keep in mind that throwing boost at a stock motor will shorten it's longevity, how long depends on what you do to protect the motor, specifically tune and keep the pistons cool. If you plan to go procharger, I'd recommend the D1SC over the P1, and it'll make north of 800rwhp with a properly built motor. The pluses to a procharger are it's pretty trouble free, bolt on easy, can be done in a weekend or two, and is very reliable. Downside, is it can be loud at times, and changing boost is not as easy as a turbo.

The turbo route is slightly cheaper, but requires a little more work and planning than a PC. Browse the thread titles in this section and go back 5-6 pages and you'll see there are quite a few more turbo 'help' threads than procharger ones. From oiling issues to exhaust problems, boost creep etc. Not to say you can't get it to work well, it just takes more planning and you need to be comfortable with troubleshooting and figuring out issues. Tuning is also a little trickier with a turbo than a supercharger.

In the end, decide what matters to you. Power delivery is a little different, but both setups can be equally fast and powerful.

Feel free to read up, and post questions if you have them.

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

I have a PT7675 going on my low compression 383 and the shop that is doing the work said they can't believe how fast the turbo comes in on the car. I haven't driven it yet but the shop owner loves the way the car feels and says I am going to love it so I don't think lag is going to be an issue.

WS6ICK2k

A lot of the heavy FI hitters on here actually go with a single turbo versus twins.

Rawr256

It's all relevant to how you want the power delivery. Biggest thing, set a goal. Centrifugal is going to build boost linearly with the motor and be more predictable. Turbo, it's going to hit and go.

Alchemist hit it all spot on really. Biggest thing again, set a goal. Do you plan to have the car all done in a weekend or don't mind having it down for months (and in some cases years) to get the turbo stuff done. There are places that make turbo kits but you still need other thinks then a turbo and some piping.

If you haven't already learned, I would suggest picking up HPT or EFIlive and start learning a bit and do some reading, then more reading and when you have a break, more reading. The biggest thing (again going back to what Alchemist already stated) is the tune being safe for the car and driver.

fordkilla2000

I am comfortable with a 700 hp motor + 200 shot, so I'm sure I'll be Ok as long as I get a great tune. With that being said, I've never ran a FI car but I know several guys that do and I would prefer FI before running spray again. My opinion is the FI is more predictable and won't sling the car or parts to the side. Like I said I am going to build one of the best engines for boost money can buy. For now because I work alot I don't race alot so even if hp reaches 700-900 hp it won't put it all down on public roads. I don't believe going more than 8psi max will destroy the engine. I've seen multiple threads and forums where people speak of doing this with less than what I have done to my engine. Trust me I'm not stock but only pushing 430rwhp.

fordkilla2000

Turbos cheaper? Everywhere I've looked turbos are more except the bs ones on ebay if they are cheaper I don't mind. I just wanna run the max without spinning a rod and/or twisting the crank. Once I get the other engine built I will convert, re evaluate and retune. I'm new to ls motors I've always built older carb motors and they are definitely alot cheaper but I'm all in. Forget DD cuz it's not I want most bang for my buck and willing to spend up to 8000 on FI

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Have you looked at the prices of a Procharger head unit lately? A D1SC new is ~$2700 depending on who you go with.

fordkilla2000

Single over twin? Why?

fordkilla2000

Yes I believe if I remember correct the D1SC new kit was around $6500. And I've seen legit turbo kits for the same price or a bit more of course I was looking at twins

fordkilla2000

Whichever is truly best and will last is what I want. In best I mean I don't know how these motors react to boost from either side. I just figure what I'm looking for by using the simple formula N/A ÷ 14.7 × psi + N/A. If I used this, I would get 430 ÷ 14.7 = 29.25 × 7psi = 204.76 + 430 = 634.76 hp

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

It sounds like you have 8k to spend. That should get you a nice setup either direction you go. There are tons of people asking questions regarding what way to go, SC or turbo. How do we answer that?? Either setup can be very reliable and both can be extremely strong. However, I will say most people on here will say turbo, including myself.

BTW, those BS eBay turbos you were referring to are putting down some good numbers and are proving to be pretty good turbos. Look up Denmah's builds, can't argue with the proof.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Seriously the old d1 was junk. New ones rules my last had a lot of miles had it checked out should at least 150 k miles. Loud not too bad helical gears are quiet! But who wants that? I want ac!
Procharger failures area only due to improper install or a standard rotation off a mustang clocked wrong. Pulley it down and wastegate it!!

Turbos lots of heat. Horrible heat on engine oil. Bearing and impeller failures just scroll this section.

Procharger more money maybe a little less power down low but reliable.

Turbo cheap now oil changes will cost you. A little more power. Unreliability. And most of the time no ac. More heat soak underhood!

GoodSpeed150

iTrader: (7)

Keyword is most.

Some kits like Huron speed kit still allow you to retain your A/C. If you wrap the exhaust pipes, heat isn't an issue. Oil can still be changed in the normal intervals as well, use synthetic oils to help if you really want better oil.

IMO single turbo is the way to go.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

Well I'm going procharger due to packaging. A/C and a turbo just are not very feasable in my car. With a PC it's pretty easy.

yenkomike

iTrader: (2)

I think a d1sc will get you to your goal and a turbo will get you there as well if you do some of the work yourself the turbo is cheaper . at first the prochargers sound cool but after a while I think they are loud the gears and the bov. JMHO but they will be the fastest way to bolt on and go easy boost. I know you can buy everything you need to go turbo under $2000.00 but it will require a lot more fabrication and welding and some room and heat issues with piping under the hood.


ok I know there are guys getting some good life out of prochargers I have had a chance to mess with a few and there were good and bad but this is my experience . a good friend of mine bought a f1r new changed the oil every year and ran about 1000 a year and 4-5 years it was getting chrome flakes in the oil from bearings.

my brothers d1sc is doing a good job and getting worked hard for a few years now running high nines at 15-16 lbs .

the strongest one ive seen was a d1 old style blower we ran it 6.000 rpm over the max on a 454 bbc it made 12-13 lbs and live for years getting beat to death.

fordkilla2000

I just noticed that they're soo cheap I've found TT kits for 1k everyday and talked to a buddy and he said the turbos don't last but the piping is good

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

i will agree with Alchem,prochargers might cost more but lots of people swear by them