Soft reverse engagement, 4l80e
#1
Soft reverse engagement, 4l80e
So when I put my truck into reverse I feel a quick and firm jerk of something in the trans engaging but it doesn't move, and then about 1 second later something else in the trans engages softly and it begins to move in reverse. The shift into reverse it not as firm and crisp as it was in the 60E.
Are these two engagements I feel the direct clutch and the low/reverse band? How do I know which one is which?
The reason I ask is that my 2-3 shift is also very soft despite having an HD2 shift kit, zero torque management, zero shift times, and stock pressure settings in the tune. The 1-2 shift is quite firm however. I wonder if this might indicate an issue with the direct clutch?
The direct is dual fed internally (not with the HD2 kit), has a small hole drilled in the outside of the drum, and it a 6-disc setup.
Just curious if I should be concerned about this. Thanks.
Are these two engagements I feel the direct clutch and the low/reverse band? How do I know which one is which?
The reason I ask is that my 2-3 shift is also very soft despite having an HD2 shift kit, zero torque management, zero shift times, and stock pressure settings in the tune. The 1-2 shift is quite firm however. I wonder if this might indicate an issue with the direct clutch?
The direct is dual fed internally (not with the HD2 kit), has a small hole drilled in the outside of the drum, and it a 6-disc setup.
Just curious if I should be concerned about this. Thanks.
#2
Yes,
you need to be concerned.
Put a pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure does in 3rd. Command maximum pressure and see what happens, particularly at low rpm.
you need to be concerned.
Put a pressure gauge on it and see what the pressure does in 3rd. Command maximum pressure and see what happens, particularly at low rpm.
#3
Would you say that the 1st engagement jerk/clunk in reverse is the direct, and the 2nd slow engagement is the low/rev band? The 1st engagement feels like something that was stopped in neutral suddenly started spinning when shifted into reverse, or vice versa. But I did not remove the #9 checkball, so that coupled with the blocked reverse passage, more room to fill in the direct, and the hole drilled in the direct drum, may mean that the 2nd slow engagement is actually the direct.
Pressures in 3rd are nominal. ~60psi at idle/low throttle, 90psi cruising, ~180psi at WOT. I have not yet tried increasing pressures. I'm using the stock pressure settings in the tune.
#4
Jake,
Would you say that the 1st engagement jerk/clunk in reverse is the direct, and the 2nd slow engagement is the low/rev band? The 1st engagement feels like something that was stopped in neutral suddenly started spinning when shifted into reverse, or vice versa. But I did not remove the #9 checkball, so that coupled with the blocked reverse passage, more room to fill in the direct, and the hole drilled in the direct drum, may mean that the 2nd slow engagement is actually the direct.
Pressures in 3rd are nominal. ~60psi at idle/low throttle, 90psi cruising, ~180psi at WOT. I have not yet tried increasing pressures. I'm using the stock pressure settings in the tune.
Would you say that the 1st engagement jerk/clunk in reverse is the direct, and the 2nd slow engagement is the low/rev band? The 1st engagement feels like something that was stopped in neutral suddenly started spinning when shifted into reverse, or vice versa. But I did not remove the #9 checkball, so that coupled with the blocked reverse passage, more room to fill in the direct, and the hole drilled in the direct drum, may mean that the 2nd slow engagement is actually the direct.
Pressures in 3rd are nominal. ~60psi at idle/low throttle, 90psi cruising, ~180psi at WOT. I have not yet tried increasing pressures. I'm using the stock pressure settings in the tune.
Compare the pressures from 2nd to 3rd. Command max pressure to prevent variables.
#5
When cold (60F), line pressure went to 180psi in P/N. In reverse at idle it went up to about 280psi when cold, and went into reverse faster than before, but I still feel two distinct engagements in the trans and the 2nd is still slow and soft, but happens sooner and a little faster than before.
Line pressure in all other gears was about 180psi and didn't fluctuate too much with throttle or gear. Also didn't change too much during shifts.
1-2 shift was very harsh, 2-3 was firmer but I would say it felt the same as a stock 60E 2-3 shift. 3-4 shift felt good.
With max line pressure I am able to lock the TCC with 0 slip. I can't lock it with normal pressure.
With max line pressure I can hear a buzz/hum coming through the line for the pressure gauge that I have ran into the cab. Loose/vibrating valve? Some gears will buzz more than others, and the buzzing is intermittent. In P/N, the buzzing is constant and once warm, the buzzing had a pulsing tone and the pressure was bouncing back and forth around 180psi +/- 5psi.
When warm (125F), when I shift gears at idle, the pressure drops and then rises again. It idles at about 700 rpm.
Shift, pressure drops to, then comes back to:
P-R, 110, 190
N-D, 70, 170
D-3, 120, 170
3-2, 80, 140
2-1, 90, 170
The 3-2 pressure never comes back to the original pressure, and it come back slower than the other shifts.
Here is a video:
Last edited by Ferocity02; 04-04-2014 at 01:18 PM.
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#12
Possibly but I think you have other issues in reverse.
My valve body setups take the guesswork out of the hydraulics and the reason I made them is because I've already learned all the lessons you are now learning.
My valve body setups take the guesswork out of the hydraulics and the reason I made them is because I've already learned all the lessons you are now learning.