Replacing pinion and checking for depth.
04-15-2014, 06:36 PM
#1
Replacing pinion and checking for depth. I have the rear end completely apart, and put in new bearings and races on the carrier and pinion.
My questions:
1. do I need to leave off the crush sleeve while checking pinion depth or put on the old one to check?
2. How much Do I if any need to torque down the pinion while checking for depth?
3. Do I need to have the old pinion seal in while I'm checking depth, can I leave it out, or do I need to put the new one in?
Thanks. Hard finding a specific write up on a ring and pinion swap.
My questions:
1. do I need to leave off the crush sleeve while checking pinion depth or put on the old one to check?
2. How much Do I if any need to torque down the pinion while checking for depth?
3. Do I need to have the old pinion seal in while I'm checking depth, can I leave it out, or do I need to put the new one in?
Thanks. Hard finding a specific write up on a ring and pinion swap.
04-15-2014, 06:59 PM
#2
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While checking leave out the crush collar and pinion seal. Tighten with the old nut using a hand ratchet to get it to the proper rotating torque. Not sure what rear your working on but 15in/lbs of rotating torque will be fine for checking pinion depth. By the way, if the only change is bearings there should be no reason that the depth would change. If there are carrier shims check them for wear as that can change backlash and carrier preload.
04-15-2014, 09:45 PM
#4
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Ok, so a gear swap. The carrier will need to be beat in with a plastic mallet if you don't have a case spreader. It is supposed to be quite a tight fit to get the preload on the bearings.
For the final assembly and setting the pinion preload (crushing the collar) the parking brake may not hold but you can try it. Some collars can take 400 ft/lbs of torque to start the crush then it gets easier. Most of the time I will use a 1/2in impact gun very carefully, this is not recommended by anybody because it can rip threads from the pinion or nut and could over tighten in a hurry, I will say however 99% of the time it has been successful, once I did rip the threads from a nut but it turned out to be a bad collar that would not crush. The most important part is getting the pinion rotating torque correct, it needs to be checked with an analog in/lbs torque wrench.
For the final assembly and setting the pinion preload (crushing the collar) the parking brake may not hold but you can try it. Some collars can take 400 ft/lbs of torque to start the crush then it gets easier. Most of the time I will use a 1/2in impact gun very carefully, this is not recommended by anybody because it can rip threads from the pinion or nut and could over tighten in a hurry, I will say however 99% of the time it has been successful, once I did rip the threads from a nut but it turned out to be a bad collar that would not crush. The most important part is getting the pinion rotating torque correct, it needs to be checked with an analog in/lbs torque wrench.