stubbs4

Hi I just got a set of koni da's and strano springs and my question is do I need lca's mine look pretty rusty. Also my mechanic told me my rear main seal is leaking he told me to wait till I need a clutch to replace it. My car is a stock Ss with 120 k on the clock what clutch should I get

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

As long as the ball joints and bushings are in good condition on your factory arms there is no reason to mess with them just because they are a little rusty. You could always hit them with a little spray paint to help clean them up and make them look better.

You have to remove the transmission and clutch to fix the rear main seal so doing a clutch at the same time definitely is a good idea. There are many variables that go into deciding what clutch to buy so with out having more information there isn't any way that I am going to be able to give you a good recommendation. If you are planning on keeping it stock or just lightly modding it a LS7 clutch would probably be a very good option for you.

stubbs4

thanks yeah I plan on getting a cam but no bigger than a 224 but lca joints are worn out the rear sways when I'm driving. I just want to make best use of the springs and shocks.

dailydriver

I can vouch for props given the LS7 clutch setup (mine has an alloy Ram flywheel since I do not drag race) for a lower power LS1 f body.
I would also do a Tick, (or any other company's) remote bleeder for the slave cylinder while doing a clutch job as you will then be able to bleed the clutch fluid all by your lonesome!

As far as REAR LCAs go, you have to decide WHAT you want, and HOW you are going to use the car.
It seems you do not want it ONLY/purely for drag racing, like most on here, due to you choosing the Konis and Strano setup.
IF that is the case, then I would go with either double rod ended (if you don't mind kncking over rough roads), or the 'Roto Joint' type double ended LCAs from UMI or J&M Products for NO bind, full articulation WITHOUT the incessant noise and wear of full on rod ends.

You could also just replace the worn out factory rubber bushings with new ones from Moog which are reported to be the same durometer (hardness) as the no longer available 1LE bushings for the quietest, albeit not as 'precise' ride.

I would NOT use poly bushed LCAs (front OR rear) for anything other than mild street use, or pure drag racing use since they WILL bind and negitively effect the handling, DESPITE everyone on here claiming otherwise, or that "they are OK".
The TRUE handling gurus will tell you just what I did above, and that you are going BACKWARDS from even the stock setup for; autocross/HPDEs/open tracking/etc. with double poly setups due to 'bind'.

stubbs4

thanks for all the info im buying some bushings !!! and I was leaning toward a good handling car and not so much drag racing.