meckster

Through months of research and going back and forth on which route to go for forced induction, it looks like I'm settling on a Procharger build. I think for someone relatively new to F/I a Procharger build will be the most forgiving in terms of headaches and problems.

First off my goal is 800 rwhp. Its going to be primarily a street car with a couple trips a year to the track. So I'll be keeping the T56 in the car. Second, I'd like to go with an F1A headunit. In terms of my power goal I think it will be more than what I need.

My big questions have to do with the engine. Either way I go I want to use the stock crank with forged rods and pistons. My current LS1 has about 120,000 miles on it. Is it worth putting the money into and forging the current engine or should I swap over to an LQ4 or LQ9 and forge that?

Reason I ask is I want longevity and in terms of my HP goal I worry about the factory aluminum block. I see lots of guys running prochargers on factory blocks and read stories of them blowing up as well with stock bottom ends. I guess thats why I was wondering whether a rod and piston upgrade would be more than efficient for the aluminum black.

My next question is heads. If I use the factory block and forge it, what would be a decent set of budget friendly heads? 317's Maybe?

I do plan on a custom cam grind and upgraded valve train if that helps.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

have you looked into getting an aster bracket ? your gonna need that , along with a ls2 waterpump and your going to need a new ati balancer.

Go with an iron block , your probably going to want meth injection and your gonna need a fmic .


You don't necessarily have to use 317 heads . Have you talked with a local tuner who is comfortable and knows how to tune a boosted car?

meckster

FMIC is planned as well as the ATI balancer. Guess I somehow missed what an aster bracket is.

I havent looked into a tuner yet. This is a build thats going to take quite a while once I tear into it. I'm fine with that as I want to do it right. But I also have a busy life... family, work, etc. I'll travel out of state if I have to to find the right tuner, as I know I'm limited in my area.

meckster

well.... definitely thought there would be more reply. But I guess turbo guys outnumber procharged guys 100 to 1.

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Don't even waste the $400ish on a stock j-bracket, just order the aster bracket from Bob @ brute speed. Also, I know you'll prolly wana turn it up later on so just build the motor using an iron block. I'm on a stock crank making almost 900. k1 rods and wiseco turbo duty pistons. Do the 317 heads and head studs and you'll be fine. Def do a custom grind or you can also run bobs blower cam.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

Lots of procharger guys. Just give it time for answers. And some people are sick of answering the questions. Just do a search

meckster

Just looked into the Aster bracket... that's definitely going to be a purchase. A little salty in price but from what I gather well worth it. Thanks for the tip.

I actually spent a few hours today just searching and reading. I pretty much have a plan laid out, But was curious on whether or not it was worth throwing the money into the aluminum block for the kinda power I want to make.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

yeah i get that , go with the heavy iron block and be safe . Im prety sure their is a few , very few using newer l33 which is the aluminum 5.3 with boost. More turbo guys though.

conan

iTrader: (5)

For a street car I personally would go with an aluminum block and keep the weight off. Build a 390ci - 402ci ls2 and feed it 12-15#'s, 10:1 compression with some meth.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1TE10...-Speed-Kit.htm

Take a look at my complete kit at the above link. The Aster bracket is an option, as is the front mount, etc. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks. Bob

meckster

Thanks Bob, you will definitely be hearing from me...

SM105K

iTrader: (3)

800 hp with a 6 speed. I hope you like spending the money on a built t -56 and a good clutch........

For a clutch to withstand that type of abuse, it will cost as much as my Hughes Glide. Gonna need a flywheel, a good bell housing/shattershield, and of course a trans. That right there will cost anywhere from 4-7k depending on what you get..........

Damn I hate the cost of going fast.

BTLBABY

iTrader: (29)

Another vote here for retaining the Aluminum block. LS2 block, throw on a main girdle, and be good to go. Unless you plan on going north of 1200hp, the stock block is just fine with good internals.

Like stated above though, you're going to have a some good coin tied up in the clutch and trans to get it to the ground if you keep the stick.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, I appreciate it! Bob

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I agree, starting with the LS2 block is a great way to go. Back at the old shop we built an '05 CTS-V and we started with a new LS2 block. Added a Callies 4" stroker crank, Main girdle, Compstar rods, Diamond pistons, Total Seal rings, our blower cam, AFR 225 heads, FAST 92 intake and an F-1A using the ProCharger GTO bracket. It made 864 rwhp at only 12.4 psi of boost. The customer took it to another shops dyno day and it made 900 rwhp on their dyno. The dyno graph can be found at this link. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm

Links to this CTS-V. Bob
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...cadillac_ctsv/
http://www.planetlsx.com/vehicles/Extreme_Luxury/94

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Sorry I missed this... the darn turbo guys clog up this section with their million questions...

Anyways, I'm running a D1SC and at ~16psi I made 760rwp/700tq, through a 6 speed that was built 6 years ago. I'm running a McLeod single disc with a custom spec'd pressure plate and disc. Granted, I don't track the car, but I do enjoy it on the street.

Aster's bracket is the way to go. You think it's expensive/salty, but look at what you're getting. For the ~$700 you get a bracket that's far better, an LS2 water pump which flows more, and a 8 rib setup. So you take off the cost of the stock bracket, and the cost of the water pump, and it's a $150-200 upgrade, which is well worth it.