Damn confused about VATS (from an English guy)
05-16-2004, 04:04 PM
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Damn confused about VATS (from an English guy) Hello everybody!! (wait for response...)
A cheeky Brit here who has bought one of your proper engines to run on the $6.50/gal gas that we get over here.
I've bought a 2002 Firebird (Ram Air Trans Am) LS1 w/T56 and have been told that to get it to run, I will need to disable VATS somehow. The guy I bought the engine off says
"The Vats is in the dash harness and not the engine, so you don't have to
worry about that."
But I'm not sure about that. I don't want to pay $250+ to get the loom modified when Baker Electronix sell a VATS module for $25.00 (you see the price of our gas, right?).
You are the experts, what is the real answer? I won't be using the key from the 'Bird (is it an F-body? I have no idea), so not sure if I can wire a resistor in somewhere to fool the VATS (what's the difference between the resistor method and the 50Hz gizmo method?)...
I look forward to your replies, gas is going up daily...
Robin
England
A cheeky Brit here who has bought one of your proper engines to run on the $6.50/gal gas that we get over here.
I've bought a 2002 Firebird (Ram Air Trans Am) LS1 w/T56 and have been told that to get it to run, I will need to disable VATS somehow. The guy I bought the engine off says
"The Vats is in the dash harness and not the engine, so you don't have to
worry about that."
But I'm not sure about that. I don't want to pay $250+ to get the loom modified when Baker Electronix sell a VATS module for $25.00 (you see the price of our gas, right?).
You are the experts, what is the real answer? I won't be using the key from the 'Bird (is it an F-body? I have no idea), so not sure if I can wire a resistor in somewhere to fool the VATS (what's the difference between the resistor method and the 50Hz gizmo method?)...
I look forward to your replies, gas is going up daily...
Robin
England
05-16-2004, 06:49 PM
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this is hard to answer fully cause you have not given all the details. if the motor is in a transam and the vats in the column is bad you can just connect the vats wire under the column with the proper value resister and everything will be all good and you won't have to buy the keys with the resister pellets in them. if your transpanting the motor into another car it depends on what kinda computer you plan on using. if you have the motor and computer out of a transam the computer is gonna be looking for a vats connection in which case you can either wire up a resistor again or you can have the pcm reprogramed to suit your needs and while they are at it have the vats option turned off within the software of the pcm. as far as a 50hz gizmo all i can assume is your looking at a vats bypass similar to something sold on bypasskit.com. this would be a huge waste of money in my opinion when all you need is a 10 cent resistor. then again the ones on bypasskit.com work through the purple data wire on the diagnostic plug which might make it easier for you depending on what wireing harness your using. hope some of this helps.
05-20-2004, 04:07 PM
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When you turn the key in the ignition nothing happens correct? The security light should flash. That means your VATS is not operating properly. You can find out if it is the ignition cylinder or if its in the VATS computer. If its in the lock cylinder, you can just wire the correct resistor into it too fool the computer, but if its in the computer it will have to be replaced.
Hope that helps,
John
Originally Posted by http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml
One of the more common problems with the VATS security systems in the third generation f-bodies is caused by a simple bad connection in the ignition cylinder. The problems start when the wires leading from the contacts in the cylinder to the VATS module develop an intermittent contact or a complete break. This can cause sudden failure to crank, either intermittently or permanently. Due to the nature of the system, manual transmission cars can t even be push started.
DIAGNOSIS:
The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down, you ll be needing it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and for alot of money or bypass the system for less than a dollar.
BYPASS:
To bypass the system you ll need to buy a resistor with a value matching that of your keys chip at any local electronics store. The easiest way to install this resistor is to cut the wires leading into the column about a foot from the connector. Take this section of wire, strip the ends and solder the resistor in place. Take this section of wire and resistor and simply plug back into the connector under the dash. The VATS module is now fooled into thinking that there is always the correct key in the ignition. Although this does render the security benefits of the VATS system useless, if increased security is desired, the resistor can simply be unplugged, leaving the car disabled until it is reinstalled.
DIAGNOSIS:
The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down, you ll be needing it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and for alot of money or bypass the system for less than a dollar.
BYPASS:
To bypass the system you ll need to buy a resistor with a value matching that of your keys chip at any local electronics store. The easiest way to install this resistor is to cut the wires leading into the column about a foot from the connector. Take this section of wire, strip the ends and solder the resistor in place. Take this section of wire and resistor and simply plug back into the connector under the dash. The VATS module is now fooled into thinking that there is always the correct key in the ignition. Although this does render the security benefits of the VATS system useless, if increased security is desired, the resistor can simply be unplugged, leaving the car disabled until it is reinstalled.
John
05-20-2004, 04:33 PM
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Sounds like you are doing an engine swap. I just did this with an LS1. The VATS module/resister you are talking about is what you need. You will wire it to a few wires off the PCM, easy.
You can also turn it off using LS1 Edit. Getting the wire harness simplified for conversion is a good idea, even though it costs. They will put the resister in and label wires you will need for things like RPM gauge, speed, reverse lights, etc.
Good luck with it!
You can also turn it off using LS1 Edit. Getting the wire harness simplified for conversion is a good idea, even though it costs. They will put the resister in and label wires you will need for things like RPM gauge, speed, reverse lights, etc.
Good luck with it!