4.10 Install Question
04-30-2014, 10:23 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
4.10 Install Question Hey guys! Noob here, about to tackle my 4.10 install and had a few questions.
1) I'm just using a jack and jackstands. I've seen videos of people removing/tightening the pinion nut using 3 foot breaker bars and crazy things like that. They all used lifts, though, so a 3 foot or 5 foot pipe might be feasible. Any tips for doing this while just using jackstands?
2) I've been reading writeups talking about checking pinion depth without using the crush sleeve until you've got the measurements right. I don't get how this crush sleeve works. If you don't use it for your test, how is this measurement accurate? What does crushing the sleeve do?
1) I'm just using a jack and jackstands. I've seen videos of people removing/tightening the pinion nut using 3 foot breaker bars and crazy things like that. They all used lifts, though, so a 3 foot or 5 foot pipe might be feasible. Any tips for doing this while just using jackstands?
2) I've been reading writeups talking about checking pinion depth without using the crush sleeve until you've got the measurements right. I don't get how this crush sleeve works. If you don't use it for your test, how is this measurement accurate? What does crushing the sleeve do?
04-30-2014, 10:47 PM
#2
Hey man
A+ For effort
And working on your own stuff ....
If you have never done a rear end before ....
This might not be the greatest platform to start with ....
Maybe tackle a few trucks before a f-body ....
One wrong move and you will be reminded of the gear swap every time you drive it ....
A little rear end whine is magnified in a f-body due to the lack of a trunk ... And it seems the sound is almost absorbed by the hatch and then megaphones towards the front seats ....
...just my 2$ ...
Trucks are a little more forgiving if the diff is noises ... Because all the sound stays outside the vehicle ....
Any other opinions are welcomed
A+ For effort
And working on your own stuff ....
If you have never done a rear end before ....
This might not be the greatest platform to start with ....
Maybe tackle a few trucks before a f-body ....
One wrong move and you will be reminded of the gear swap every time you drive it ....
A little rear end whine is magnified in a f-body due to the lack of a trunk ... And it seems the sound is almost absorbed by the hatch and then megaphones towards the front seats ....
...just my 2$ ...
Trucks are a little more forgiving if the diff is noises ... Because all the sound stays outside the vehicle ....
Any other opinions are welcomed
05-01-2014, 06:05 AM
#3
Pinion depth is determined by the large inner tapered roller bearing and the shim underneath it between the bearing and the pinion. The crush sleeve doesn't affect that.
The smaller outer tapered roller bearing is a slight press fit onto the pinion and the crush sleeve collapses in length as the pinion nut is tightened to help keep the smaller outer bearing inner race from being able to rotate on the pinion AND set the preload of the bearings. As the bearings are tightened into their races,the bearing preload increases. New bearings get about 25 inch pounds(NOT FOOT POUNDS) of preload and used bearings get about 10 inch pounds of preload.
The smaller outer tapered roller bearing is a slight press fit onto the pinion and the crush sleeve collapses in length as the pinion nut is tightened to help keep the smaller outer bearing inner race from being able to rotate on the pinion AND set the preload of the bearings. As the bearings are tightened into their races,the bearing preload increases. New bearings get about 25 inch pounds(NOT FOOT POUNDS) of preload and used bearings get about 10 inch pounds of preload.
05-02-2014, 01:34 PM
#4
TECH Regular
Ok here you go.
I assume you are pressing on a new pinion bearing. Don't do it yet!
Use you old pinion bearing taking a grinder on a dremel tool and hog it out a little so it slips on your new 4.10 pinion. Start with the shims you removed from your old pinion and place them behind your hogged out bearing.
Check you pinion depth to manufacture spec. It may even be stamped on your pinion.
I won't lie this part is a bitch. They have pinion depth tools but they didn't work for me. Usually the factory shims will get you very close if not right on.
Once you are satisfied with the depth then you can press on your new bearing with your old shims.
Use the same shims that were used on your carrier as well. Then put on the paste and check your pattern! None of this means anything if your pattern is not right on coast and drive. I ended spending some time getting my 4.10 pattern right but still have a little noise on coast. Most aftermarket gears make noise. Just the way it is.
I just used a 400 Ft pound impact for the pinion nut. Gave it all it had and used loctite. Been two years no problems.
Good luck.
I assume you are pressing on a new pinion bearing. Don't do it yet!
Use you old pinion bearing taking a grinder on a dremel tool and hog it out a little so it slips on your new 4.10 pinion. Start with the shims you removed from your old pinion and place them behind your hogged out bearing.
Check you pinion depth to manufacture spec. It may even be stamped on your pinion.
I won't lie this part is a bitch. They have pinion depth tools but they didn't work for me. Usually the factory shims will get you very close if not right on.
Once you are satisfied with the depth then you can press on your new bearing with your old shims.
Use the same shims that were used on your carrier as well. Then put on the paste and check your pattern! None of this means anything if your pattern is not right on coast and drive. I ended spending some time getting my 4.10 pattern right but still have a little noise on coast. Most aftermarket gears make noise. Just the way it is.
I just used a 400 Ft pound impact for the pinion nut. Gave it all it had and used loctite. Been two years no problems.
Good luck.
Last edited by Jr.Samples; 05-02-2014 at 01:42 PM.