Diagnose my "breaking up" nitrous pass?
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Diagnose my "breaking up" nitrous pass?
I have a feeling this is going to be hard to figure out with as little info as I have yet but I figure you guys might think of something I haven't......
Ok, I've got a 54 Ford I'm spraying 150 wet shot through a 78 nitrous outlet plate 62N/35F jets, 30 red top SVO injectors, MSD timing twister, truck intake on a stock LQ4 other than good sized cam.
my issue is, I ran it at our 1/8th mile drag strip and it liked the nitrous for sure but in the upper rpms (5500-7000) it seemed to be "breaking up" its almost similar to it "missing" but still pulls strong. As soon as its off the nitrous it doesn't do it.
I of course pulled the plugs and they looked pretty good but I drove back to the pits on them, (I know its not accurate then) next time I'll have a plug I can swap before I drive back.
Anyhoo, Max timing is 27 degrees using GM computer. I'm using a MSD timing twister and pulling 4 degrees then I changed it to take out 7 degrees and the problem didnt' change, its still fluttering or breaking up. Any suggestions?
The only thing I thought of is the noids are sitting right next to the wires going to the white plug that supplies the inputs to the coils on the passenger side, could it be that I'm getting electrical noise?
Ok, I've got a 54 Ford I'm spraying 150 wet shot through a 78 nitrous outlet plate 62N/35F jets, 30 red top SVO injectors, MSD timing twister, truck intake on a stock LQ4 other than good sized cam.
my issue is, I ran it at our 1/8th mile drag strip and it liked the nitrous for sure but in the upper rpms (5500-7000) it seemed to be "breaking up" its almost similar to it "missing" but still pulls strong. As soon as its off the nitrous it doesn't do it.
I of course pulled the plugs and they looked pretty good but I drove back to the pits on them, (I know its not accurate then) next time I'll have a plug I can swap before I drive back.
Anyhoo, Max timing is 27 degrees using GM computer. I'm using a MSD timing twister and pulling 4 degrees then I changed it to take out 7 degrees and the problem didnt' change, its still fluttering or breaking up. Any suggestions?
The only thing I thought of is the noids are sitting right next to the wires going to the white plug that supplies the inputs to the coils on the passenger side, could it be that I'm getting electrical noise?
#4
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SE of Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What plug gap are you running now? As stated BR7's and 30ish gap. The n and f jets are close to the N.O. chart for a plate system with high fuel pressure, around 60psi. What's the fuel pressure?
#7
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Honestly I can't remember what gap I'm running, reason is cuz these plugs were new leftovers from my C5 vette that I already had gapped and worked well on this setup.
Fuel pressure is 58ish but not sure what it is at WOT and noids open etc.
Cajun, thats what I was wondering as well.
Will do 03EBZ06, I've got a few new plugs I'll swap in once I'm done with a N20 pass
Something I just found as well, I was using Harris speed works jetting 62N/35F and Nitrous outlets jetting is 62N/033F so now I'm thinking you guys are right on the rich idea. It even makes more sense that its doing it at the end of the run cuz the bottle pressure would be dropping more that at the start even though I have a heater on it and that would make it even richer...... stay tuned
Fuel pressure is 58ish but not sure what it is at WOT and noids open etc.
Cajun, thats what I was wondering as well.
Will do 03EBZ06, I've got a few new plugs I'll swap in once I'm done with a N20 pass
Something I just found as well, I was using Harris speed works jetting 62N/35F and Nitrous outlets jetting is 62N/033F so now I'm thinking you guys are right on the rich idea. It even makes more sense that its doing it at the end of the run cuz the bottle pressure would be dropping more that at the start even though I have a heater on it and that would make it even richer...... stay tuned