99 Z28 Vibrating & Rumbling noise coming from under the center console.
05-26-2014, 05:46 PM
#1
99 Z28 Vibrating & Rumbling noise coming from under the center console. My 1999 Camaro Z28 makes a loud rumbling and vibrating sound ALMOST like the sound that you hear when your tires go over rumble strips on the shoulder of the road but without the vibration and the pitch of the sound is much lower.
This occurs under hard acceleration OR at speeds above 55 MPH. The car has 177k miles so I'm not surprised but what is happening and is it unsafe to drive? What needs to be replaced? Tranny Mount? Drive Shaft? U-Joints??? How can I tell which one is causing it? The sound is much
This occurs under hard acceleration OR at speeds above 55 MPH. The car has 177k miles so I'm not surprised but what is happening and is it unsafe to drive? What needs to be replaced? Tranny Mount? Drive Shaft? U-Joints??? How can I tell which one is causing it? The sound is much
05-27-2014, 02:28 PM
#2
TECH Regular
Auto car? Have the EXACT same problem at 70 with my manual. I am told the steel drive shafts are notorious for being out of balance for the angle they work at. Anyway I bought an aluminum that was supposed to bolt right in and remedy this. It did not bolt in. I will have to swap yokes. 
05-27-2014, 03:30 PM
#3
+1 Had the same problem right around 55-65. Tossed the steel DS and picked up a Denny's Aluminum job along with a prothane transmission mount and problem was solved.
A bad transmission mount will sound something like taking a block of wood, putting it in tupperware and shaking it vigorously. It will be way more pronounced upon deceleration in my experience. A out of balance driveshaft just feels like a vibration right under the center console that increases in strength and frequency as road speed increases.
You can swap out both of these problem children in about 2 hours. Having a lift helps. You'll have to compress your rear suspension to be able to get the u-joint clip bolts run all the way out. At least that is my experience.
A bad transmission mount will sound something like taking a block of wood, putting it in tupperware and shaking it vigorously. It will be way more pronounced upon deceleration in my experience. A out of balance driveshaft just feels like a vibration right under the center console that increases in strength and frequency as road speed increases.
You can swap out both of these problem children in about 2 hours. Having a lift helps. You'll have to compress your rear suspension to be able to get the u-joint clip bolts run all the way out. At least that is my experience.
05-29-2014, 11:37 AM
#5
+1 Had the same problem right around 55-65. Tossed the steel DS and picked up a Denny's Aluminum job along with a prothane transmission mount and problem was solved.
A bad transmission mount will sound something like taking a block of wood, putting it in tupperware and shaking it vigorously. It will be way more pronounced upon deceleration in my experience. A out of balance driveshaft just feels like a vibration right under the center console that increases in strength and frequency as road speed increases.
You can swap out both of these problem children in about 2 hours. Having a lift helps. You'll have to compress your rear suspension to be able to get the u-joint clip bolts run all the way out. At least that is my experience.
A bad transmission mount will sound something like taking a block of wood, putting it in tupperware and shaking it vigorously. It will be way more pronounced upon deceleration in my experience. A out of balance driveshaft just feels like a vibration right under the center console that increases in strength and frequency as road speed increases.
You can swap out both of these problem children in about 2 hours. Having a lift helps. You'll have to compress your rear suspension to be able to get the u-joint clip bolts run all the way out. At least that is my experience.
05-29-2014, 06:19 PM
#7
I see. Will a USED stock LS1 aluminum driveshaft be a good candidate or will I risk the same problem? Also would it be a direct bolt on or will anything need to be changed? Likewise for the Dennys? Also for the rear suspension, will having the back end backed up on ramps provide enough compression from the cars own weight be enough compression?
I have zero experience with the LS1 driveshaft. Someone will have to chime in there.
For the Denny's, I believe I had to measure the old one and fill out their order form. You'll also have to take some measurements with the rear suspension loaded. Its a mild PITA but definitely worth it. I've seen some very high speed on my driveshaft and it doesn't vibrate a bit.
You can use the cars own weight and it might work. I've found better success with unbolting the Torque Arm at the rear axle, moving it to the side to better manipulate the forward/backward motion of the rear axle assembly. That will give you that last "little bit" of clearance needed to fully remove the bolts holding those clips on the u-joint.
I have zero experience with the LS1 driveshaft. Someone will have to chime in there.
For the Denny's, I believe I had to measure the old one and fill out their order form. You'll also have to take some measurements with the rear suspension loaded. Its a mild PITA but definitely worth it. I've seen some very high speed on my driveshaft and it doesn't vibrate a bit.
You can use the cars own weight and it might work. I've found better success with unbolting the Torque Arm at the rear axle, moving it to the side to better manipulate the forward/backward motion of the rear axle assembly. That will give you that last "little bit" of clearance needed to fully remove the bolts holding those clips on the u-joint.
